South of Lyon, about an hour’s drive along the Rhône River, in the Rhône-Alpes region, lies the bustling market town of Valence, nestled against the Ardèche cliffs. Sunny Valence may be just off the main road between Paris and Provence, but it’s not without reason that the French believe that “the south of France begins here.” And indeed, the 300 days of sunshine a year, the palm trees that exude a Mediterranean atmosphere, and the pastel-hued wooden shutters reminiscent of those on the Côte d’Azur (the Azure Strip), only confirm the point.
So, as you wander the streets of the former Roman colony, you will discover the 11th-century Cathedrale Saint-Apollinaire de Valence, and not far away you will discover the facade of the Maison des Tetes decorated with the heads of Greek greats. Near the Place de la Clerc in the old town is the Valence Museum dedicated to art and architecture, and about 200 meters to the east lies the
The interesting Center for Armenian Heritage (Centre du Patrimoine Armenien) is no wonder, since one in ten residents of Valence is Armenian. The famous writer and satirist François Rabelais was educated in Valence, and even Napoleon spent a year here with the artillery regiment. Many Armenians who emigrated to France at the beginning of the 20th century helped populate Valence, and many streets are named after them.
And as for the culinary experience? Don't worry, you won't be disappointed. In Valence, you'll find a unique and exquisite southern cuisine that leaves no room for doubt. Local Anne-Sophie Pic is the only Frenchwoman to own a restaurant decorated with three Michelin stars, and at the weekly markets, the vendors offer a variety of vegetables. Cheeses And fresh pastries, made by the bakers in the surrounding villages. But the culinary flagship of the city is undoubtedly the city’s original pastry called the Suisse de Valence or “the Swiss of Valence.” A compressed biscuit, shaped like a character in uniform, with a fascinating story behind it, which is what this post will focus on.
The French Revolution left the Catholic Church in France in disarray, affecting the relationship between the leadership and the France To the leaders of Roman Catholicism. In 1791, Pope Pius VI opposed the “Civil Constitution of the Clergy” (civile du clerge), which attempted to subordinate the French Church to the dictates of the state and take control of the priesthood in the Church from the Vatican. Pius strongly condemned the Civil Constitution, suspended the priests who agreed to take the oath of allegiance, and essentially severed relations with France. France responded forcefully. In 1793, the French annexed the Papal territories on their own soil, in Avignon and Comte-Vencesine, and in 1796 Napoleon’s forces invaded the Papal States. Pius was forced to swallow his last word and cede his territories in southern France (in the Treaty of Tolentino). But the French were not satisfied with this, and in 1798 they conquered Rome and declared the establishment of the Roman Republic. Pius, of course, refused to surrender to the attackers and give up his sovereignty, and was taken prisoner to France.
The 80-year-old Pope was sick and elderly, and had to experience the ups and downs of the journey when he arrived in Valence, his final stop, in 1799. A few weeks later, he returned his soul to its creator. For three years, his body was embalmed in an unknown grave, and only in 1802 (after the Catholic Church was declared the state religion) did the Swiss Guard arrive in a magnificent procession to take Pius' remains and return them to the Vatican. The interesting detail in the whole story is that when the soldiers took his body, the local bishop begged them to leave behind, if only a single, sacred relic of the Pope. The Guard soldiers (with the approval of the Vatican, of course) heeded his pleas and left his heart in Valence, which remains there to this day. And if you visit the Cathedral of Saint Apollinaire, remember the story and look at the marble monument behind the altar – where the heart of Pius VI is hidden.
Ironically, it was precisely in the city where he suffered and most likely hated every moment that Pope Pius VI was given a place of honor. The residents of Valence honored his memory, in the cathedral, in statues and in numerous commemorative plaques throughout the city. But they also did not forget to honor the Swiss Guard soldiers, who returned the late Pius to the Vatican and left a strong impression on the city, in addition to his Sacred Heart, of course. And inspired by the uniforms of the Swiss Guard soldiers, the city's artisans created "La Suisse" - the city's unique pastry. A small biscuit of the guard soldier, made of crispy butter dough, scented with rum and orange blossoms, and inside it sugared cubes of orange peel.
The soldier has a hat on his head and a mustache curling over his mouth, currants dot the buttons of his shirt, and two coffee beans adorn his eyes. The original biscuit is usually eaten with coffee, or with ice cream on the side, for those with a sweet tooth.
You will find the popular biscuit in bakeries scattered throughout the city, but those in the know will tell you that the real thing is at 17 Rue Pierre Semard at Maison Nivon, the small and renowned bakery of bolognese chef Denis Maurin, where the “Swiss Guard” has been made for nearly 160 years.
A short video in which you can see bolognese chef Danny Moran talk about the "Swiss" and the preparation process of the special pastry.