Between Saint-Germain and Saint-Sulpice: churches, brothels and one Catherine Deneuve

The Saint Germain district is considered one of the most popular districts among Israeli travelers, so many of you have probably visited it during your vacation in Paris. And although Saint Germain has already become a tourist cliché, let me provide you with a travel itinerary that, even if you are an advanced Francophile, I guarantee you will find quite a few places you don't know (or unfamiliar stories about familiar places).

When you look at the map, you will discover that this is a relatively short route, so it is suitable not only for walkers, and it constitutes the first part of a longer hiking route in what I call “Southern Saint-Germain,” because for me the 6th arrondissement is divided by Boulevard Saint-Germain into two parts.

The first part is the part north of Boulevard Saint-Germain and ends at the Seine. This part contains quite a few famous places such as Paris School of Fine Arts או Bridge of the Arts And I promise you that one day I will provide you with an itinerary there.

The second part of the Saint-Germain district is south of the Boulevard and ends, more or less, in the Montparnasse district, which borders the 6th arrondissement to the south. On this route, we will focus – only on the part between the Church of Saint-Germain and the Church of Saint-Sulpice – and discover charming churches, brothels, picturesque streets and more. Let's get going.

Itinerary map

We will start our trip outside the metro station. Saint-Germain-des-Prés (Saint Germain des Prés), which can be reached by line 4. If you live in the 6th, 7th, 5th, 1st arrondissements, chances are you can also get there on foot.

The itinerary in the Saint-Germain district

Church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Although we are going to walk in the northern part of the Saint-Germain district, starting a trip so close to the Church of Saint-Germain des Prés, which is a remnant of an important monastery that was there (Abbaye de Saint Germain des Prés), without visiting it would be a crime against Francophiles.

The reason for this is the extensive renovation the church has undergone in recent years, as a result of which it has transformed from a dark church with walls that time has turned almost black, into a bright church with a beautiful blue ceiling.

Since time is short and our trip has not really begun yet, I will not elaborate on this church here, but those of you who are interested in learning more about its history and that of the neighborhood are welcome to read the article. Saint-Germain-des-Prés – From an Ancient Monastery to a Church of Reason.

Diderot's statue and the street of the baking oven

After you've finished visiting the church (and maybe having a coffee at Deux Magots like the last of the tourists), you're welcome to cross Boulevard Saint-Germain towards the south and walk east, until you reach the square named after Jacques Copeau (1879-1949), who was a theater critic and director, the most important figure in this field in the twentieth century, and also one of the founders of the important literary magazine La Nouvelle Revue française.

This statue was created by Jean Gautherin (1840-1890) and is a testament to his immense talent. Denis Diderot looks very much alive here and in a moment he seems to be about to get up from his chair or utter some witty remark. It is such a pity that Jean Gautherin did not get to create many more such statues because he died, after a sudden illness, at the age of 49 and was buried inMontparnasse Cemetery.

From the statue of Jacques Cousteau Square, continue along Rue des Ciseaux to Rue du Four. This is one of the oldest streets in Paris (It was created in the 13th century) and was named after the oven of the Saint-Germain Monastery, where the residents of the neighborhood used to bake their bread or heat their dishes, in exchange for a sum of money that they were forced to give to the monks.

The street changed its face during the 19th and 20th centuries with the construction of Boulevard Saint-Germain and Rue de Rennes and lost the vast majority of its old houses. However, thanks to Il n'y a plus d'après, the famous song by the Jewish singer Guy Béart (1930-2015) and the wonderful performance by Juliette Greco, he will probably remain famous until the end of time (at the beginning of the song the hero and his girlfriend say bonjour at the corner of Rue du Four).

Ducklings and Wine Street

Continue to Rue des Canettes, which can be translated as “Duckling Street.” Here, in building number 5, the “Cénacles de Buveurs d’eau” (Water Drinkers’ Club) was held, led by Henri Murger (1822-1861), on whose book “Scenes from Bohemian Life,” Puccini’s opera “La Bohème” was based. It was an important meeting place, where quite a few members of Parisian bohemia met in 1840, and despite the name, I assure you they didn’t actually drink water there…

And speaking of “water drinkers,” at number 11 you will find the wine bar. At Georges, which has been here since 1952(!). I visited it several times in the distant past and really enjoyed the atmosphere. At the time, you could find Jef in the basement, a French guy who loved Israel, who as soon as he heard that he had Israeli customers would immediately put on Israeli music, which could lead to somewhat bizarre situations (have you ever tried drinking wine from Vouvray, while Eyal Golan songs were being played inside the ancient cellar?).

A lot of wine has flowed since then, and I haven't been there in a while, so I have no idea if dear Jef is still there, but if any of you come there in the evening, I would really appreciate it if you would check on Jef and tell me about him (or if I go there myself on my next visit to Paris, whichever comes first).

Another building of historical importance is number 17, where the Count de La Motte (Nicolas de La Motte 1820-1755) lived from 1831 until his death. This name may not mean much to you, but he was responsible, along with his more famous wife, Jeanne de Valois Saint-Rémy (1756-1791), for the scandal that finally tarnished the name of the French royal family.

I am referring, of course, to the “Affair of the Necklace” (L'affaire du collier), during which the Countess managed to convince the Cardinal de Rouen (Louis-René de Rohan 1734-1803) that the Queen Marie Antoinette She wants him to buy an expensive necklace in her name. It's a complicated and slightly complicated affair, but the bottom line is that Marie Antoinette's image was completely ruined as a result, because she was portrayed as someone who bought herself an incredibly expensive diamond necklace, while the people were starving for bread.

Anyone interested in learning a little more about this affair is welcome to read my article on Arsene Lupin, which deals in relative detail with the Rosary affair and its implications for the monarchy in France.

One last place worth mentioning is an excellent creperie (recommended by Goni Burstein, who studied at the “Cordon Bleu” in Paris), called La Crepe rit du Clown, located at number 6. The name of the place, which translates to “The Crepe Laughs at the Clown,” refers to the menu, where many dishes allude to the world of the circus. A place that could definitely be suitable for a light dinner, before heading to the wine bar Chez Georges.

Two streets associated with the Guise family

After you've finished strolling along rue des Canettes, head to rue Guisarde, which opened in 1620. This street is named after the Guise family, a noble family fromLorraine region, which rose to prominence during the 16th century and at a certain point one of its sons (Henry "the Scarred") became the undisputed ruler of Paris and was within striking distance of the French crown.

The reason the street was named after the Guise family is that the family had quite a few supporters here in this area (the Guise family itself lived inHotel de Soubise The nearby street, Rue Princesse, is also associated with the Guise family because it is named after Princess Catherine de Lorraine (1552-1596), who was the sister of Henry “the Scarred.”

Beyond the whole food and drink thing, art lovers among you will surely be happy to know that Jean Siméon Chardin (13-1699), one of the greatest Rococo painters, lived at 1799 Rue Princesse with his second wife.

And one last thing, all the nightlife enthusiasts among you will be happy to know that at number 15 you will find the club At Castel, which was one of the most important jazz clubs in Paris during the 50s. Today it is a prestigious nightclub frequented by the who's who of France, and occasionally the place is rented out for all sorts of private events. Here is a video of one such event, so you can see what goes on inside.

There was once a fair here.

Continue on Rue Guisarde towards Rue Mabillon. Just opposite you will see a square building from the 19th century, called the “Marché Saint Germain”. This is a 19th century building, which today houses a number of boutiques, food shops and small restaurants and is a pale shadow of the fair that used to take place nearby.

This fair was created in the 12th century and spread over a large part of the area north of the Abbey of Saint-Germain. Shortly after this fair was created, it became a huge economic success, partly thanks to the variety of stalls and shops in the area and the entertainment there (acrobats, actors, etc.). It is no wonder that even the kings of France, such as Henry IV (reigned 4-1589) liked to visit there and “mix” with the “people.”

Here, during the 17th century, the fragrant black drink we know as coffee first arrived in Paris. This drink was brought by an Armenian named Pascal, who would pour it to fairgoers. However, the drink did not catch on at first, not necessarily because of its taste, but because of the noisy and unpleasant environment in which it was consumed.

This was understood by a young Sicilian named Francesco Procopio dei Coltelli (1651-1727), who founded the first coffee house in Paris not far from there in 1682. The purpose of the coffee house, named after him (Cafe La Procope) is to allow guests to drink coffee in a relaxed atmosphere and chat with each other. The place was very successful and led to the flourishing of other coffee shops, and the rest is history.

In 1762, the fair burned down, and although it was rebuilt a few years later, it was never the same. It seemed as if the soul of the fair had disappeared in the flames and never returned. Over the years, the fair's area, which at its peak reached as far as Tournon Street, shrank until all that remained was the building we see today, built in the 70s.

Continue on Rue Lobineau until you reach the intersection with Rue de Seine. There, on your left, you will find the famous boulangerie-patisserie of Gerard Mulot, which has been in the same location since 1975 (two years before I was born). It is one of the most famous patisseries in Paris for its pastries (try their fruit tart) and for the fact that it has not only sweets, but also a selection of salads.

After you've finished visiting Mollo's shop, continue south on Rue de Seine towards Rue Saint Sulpice. There, at number 78, you'll find Trudon's candle shop.

It all began in 1643, when Claude Troudon opened a boutique selling spices and candles on the rue Saint-Honoré in Paris. The family business began to grow, and in the early 18th century they set up a factory south of Paris, where they were able to produce completely white candles. These candles became a great success, and in 1719 the Troudon family business became the official candle supplier to the French royal family (later it would also become the official candle supplier to Napoleon III).

Today, candles are no longer used as a means of lighting (unless you feel like organizing a romantic evening for yourself), but the Troudon chain of stores lives on thanks to their scented candles, which are considered the best in France (and probably the world).

If you don't really need candles, you'll probably be happy to know that they also produce statuettes of French kings and other important historical figures here.

A seminar for teachers, 2 brothels and a chocolate mousse that you shouldn't miss

After you've finished visiting Troudon's store, you're welcome to continue to Saint Sulpice Street, named after the church, which we'll get to later.

This neighborhood was home to one of the most important seminaries for priests in Paris from the 17th century. Among the institution's students was none other than Talleyrand (Charles Maurice de Talleyrand-Périgord 1754-1838), who would become France's famous cynical foreign minister and survive a long series of regimes.

Surprisingly, or not, studying at the institution did not in the least diminish the carnal desires of both teachers and students, and while Talleyrand found himself a mistress, others needed more “professional” sexual services. This is why there were several brothels on this street, and only people with a sharp eye could spot them.

You will encounter the first brothel at Rue Saint Sulpice 15. There is seemingly nothing in this gray apartment building that hints at what happened there during the 19th century. To discover its secret you must wait patiently until someone leaves or enters the stairwell and you can enter immediately after them. Peek down and you will discover the name Alys written in mosaic on the floor. This is the name of the madame who ran the place.

Continue west towards number 36. There may not be a mosaic there, but you will certainly notice that the number here looks different from the other street numbers (it is much more prominent).

And now that we've finished dealing with carnal desires, let's deal with sweet desires (as if the visit to Gerard Mollo wasn't enough for us so far). For me, there's no dessert that can compare to an airy chocolate mousse (preferably with whipped cream) and that's exactly what you'll find at Chapon, located at number 34.

Here you will find 5 types of chocolate mousse with different flavors and varying levels of bitterness. The chocolate mousse you choose will be served to you in a paper cup, reminiscent of an ice cream cone, and all you have to do is savor its taste.

pay attention: The place closes at lunchtime, and according to the saleswoman, the mousse runs out around 16:00 PM, which creates a difficult logistical problem (you wouldn't go eat mousse before lunch, would you? And maybe you would...). I solved the problem by having lunch not far from there and showing up there around 15:30 PM. Indeed, some of the pots of mousse were about to run out, but I still managed to taste this sweet treat.

If you missed the mousse and want a “consolation prize,” you are welcome to continue west to number 2, where there is a branch of Patrick Roger, one of the best and most expensive chocolatiers in Paris. If you climb to the second floor, you will find sculptures of him there.

Saint-Sulpice and the paparazzi of Catherine Deneuve

We have now arrived at the Church of Saint-Sulpice, one of the most famous churches in Paris (especially after the publication of The Da Vinci Code). The current church began construction in the 17th century and was never finished (note one of its towers that was not completed).

After you've finished visiting the church itself (and if you're lucky, you might even get to Listen to the concert there.), you are welcome to go for a coffee at Café de la Mairie located at 8 Place Saint Sulpice. The place may not be known for its fine coffee or good food, but since its establishment it has become an important meeting place for the literary elite of Paris.

One of those famous writers who used to sit and write about the place was Georges Perec (1936-1982), a writer who loved to play with and experiment with the written word. For example, he wrote an entire book without using the letter E. As a tribute to that writer, you can find the following street sign, which also lacks that letter.

Now head to Rue Bonaparte, which is opposite the Saint-Sulpice church square. At number 78 you will find the town hall of the 6th arrondissement of Paris, but at number 76 you will find something much more interesting.

While standing in front of number 76, look to your right and you will see a mural starring none other than the famous actress Catherine Deneuve.

The reason the mural is located here is that the famous actress lives in one of the apartments in this building.

And here, with Catherine Deneuve, we will end our trip. If you still have the strength to travel, I invite you to start another itinerary called The secret places of the southern district of Saint-Germain, which starts exactly from the point where this trip ends.

Looking for more information about the Saint-Germain district?

Did you like this itinerary and would you like to explore other parts of the Saint-Germain district? Or maybe you want to live in the district or get recommendations for good restaurants in the area?

You can find all this information and much more on the page Saint-Germain-des-Prés.