Boulevard Saint-Germain crosses the left bank of the Seine and passes through the Latin Quarter , the 6th and 7th arrondissements . While the boulevard itself is mostly uninteresting (at least to me), if you deviate a little north or south and zigzag along it, you can discover very interesting places.
Since the boulevard is quite long, one walking route is not enough to help you discover all the secrets hidden along this avenue. That is why I previously created a route that runs along the section of Boulevard Saint-Germain in the Latin Quarter and today I want to continue the trip, this time with the part that runs through the 6th arrondissement (in the future I will finish the trilogy with a walking route that runs along the section of Boulevard Saint-Germain, which is located in the 7th arrondissement).
Starting point
Instead of a map: Under the title of each station is its address, and each address is a link. Click on it, and the place will immediately open in Google Maps.
The route starts near the Saint-Michel Fountain. If you did the route in the Latin Quarter, it ends not far from there (in the part that connects Rue de la Huchette and Boulevard Saint-Michel) and you are welcome to cross the road and reach the fountain.
Everyone else is welcome to take line 4, RER B or RER C and get off at Saint-Michel Notre-Dame station. If you are traveling by bus, you can get there using lines: 21,27, 38, 96, N14, N13, N12, N21, N122, N123.
Have you arrived and are you in front of the fountain? Great, let's start walking!
The itinerary in the 6th arrondissement
You should have seen a statue of Napoleon by now.
In the 12th century, a church dedicated to Saint Michael, who killed the dragon, was built here, and it served as a kind of twin church (although less impressive) of Sainte-Chapelle.
This church was destroyed back in 1781, eight years before the French Revolution and about seventy years before Baron Haussmann and Napoleon III began to change the face of Paris, so the “usual suspects” cannot be blamed for this destruction.
When it was decided to pave the Boulevard Saint-Michel, as part of Haussmann's plan to rebuild Paris, Napoleon III wanted to place a statue of his uncle Napoleon I here . However, public opinion did not like this idea very much and in the end Napoleon decided to place a fountain here with a statue of Saint Michael raising his sword above the dragon.
Beyond the fact that it is a very beautiful fountain, you will be happy to hear that from time to time a small market is held here, which I have encountered several times, but unfortunately I was unable to get you the days and hours when it is held, so you will have to rely on your luck.
The souvenir of François I
Cross the road to the west and enter Rue de l'Hirondelle. Go down the stairs and go to number 20. Look up, and what do you see? That's right! A salamander.
Anyone who knows the history of France knows that this is the symbol of François I (reigned between 1515-1547), and this is where the question arises: why do we encounter this symbol here, when most of the time we encounter it in all kinds of castles that he built in the Loire Valley.
The reason for this is that this is where the “Lovers' Nest” stood, built by Francis I for his second mythical mistress, Anne de Pisseleu d'Heilly, Duchess of Étampes (1-1508).
Anne de Piselo was considered one of the most beautiful women of her time and also one of the smartest, and thanks to these two qualities she managed to get rid of the king's previous mistress, the Baroness de Chateaubriand (you can read about her in the article The Unfortunate Women of Chateaubriand Castle ).
The king built her a house, decorated it with the salamander emblem, and there he met with her discreetly, until she became his official mistress. However, every Saturday has a Saturday night, and just as Anne managed to remove the previous mistress of Francis I from the king's court, she made a fatal mistake and came into conflict with Diane de Poitiers , the mistress of the future heir to the throne, Henry II (reigned 1547-1559).
When Francis I died, Anne de Pisselle was banished from the king’s court – but there’s no need to pity her. Her years as the king’s mistress had made her a wealthy woman and she lived comfortably in Paris until her death at the age of 1 (an age considered very old in those days).
Over the years, the building where the Duchess d'Etienne lived was demolished, and in the 18th century the building you see now was built. This begs the question, was the salamander taken from the old building and affixed to the facade of the new building, or was it a new salamander, built together with the new building, as a tribute to François I and his mistress? Unfortunately, I was unable to find an answer to this question.
Lovely crepe, excellent boulangerie and a legendary (and expensive) restaurant
rue Gît-le-Cœur , and rue Saint-André-des-Arts
Continue on to Rue Gît-le-Cœur, which has existed in Paris since the 13th century and is named after a royal cook. If you want to live on this lovely street, which is simply wonderfully located in the Saint-Germain district, you are welcome to stay at Villa d'Estrées , where good friends of mine have stayed in the past and really enjoyed it.
Continue to Rue Saint-André-des-Arts and right across from you will see Crêperie des Pêcheurs (at number 27), where I had a pretty good crepe a few years ago . Everyone else is welcome to enjoy this beautiful facade, built in the 18th century.
Continue to number 40 and you will discover Frederic Benichou’s patisserie (is he “ours”?), with the compelling name LIBERTÉ. It turns out that the place won first place in the 2022 croissant competition, so of course I had to try one of his croissants.
So how was it? Delicious of course, very delicious even. On the other hand, maybe I don’t have a delicate enough palate to distinguish between an award-winning croissant and “just” a croissant from a neighborhood patisserie in Paris. So you won’t see me traveling especially to eat a baguette or croissant that won a competition, and as you can see, you can find great places “on the road” too.
By the way, if crepes and croissants aren't enough for you and you want to have a serious meal, then at number 41 you will find the Allard restaurant, which has existed here since 1932 and has been run in recent years by the famous chef Alain Ducasse.
Here you will find traditional, meticulous and…expensive French food. If you are craving Allard-style frog legs, then this is the place for you (by the way, there is a very limited lunch menu, but at a reasonable price of 34 euros).
The Synagogue of Louis XV
From Rue Saint-André-des-Arts, turn onto Rue de l'Éperon, continue straight and turn onto Rue Suger. Go to number 5 and you will see a sign for a Jewish dentist named Ben Hamo. This is not the only Jewish spot here, and what you read right away may well surprise you.
Here once stood the Collège de Boissy, built in 1358 and one of the Sorbonne's educational institutions. In the 16th century a church was built here and then in 1772 a great surprise happened. King Louis XV (reigned 15-1715) decided to give this church to the Jews and turn it into a synagogue!
Here we have a double surprise: a king who turns a church into a synagogue, and beyond that, what did Jews do in France if they were expelled in 1394 and only received permission to live there 400 years later? So it turns out that there are Jews and there are Jews, and when the king needs people in finance and commerce, he can also turn a blind eye to the law. This is how Portuguese Jews arrived in France in small “trickles” starting in the 17th century and settled mainly in Bordeaux, but as you have seen, also in Paris.
I couldn't go inside to see if the synagogue exists behind the facade (I assume it doesn't), but don't worry, if you go back to Rue de l'Éperon and go to number 8, you'll find a synagogue there that's open on Shabbat and holidays.
The yard where France's first guillotine was built
cour de Rohan , and cour du Commerce-Saint-André
Continue on Rue de l'Éperon until you see Rue de Jardinet on your right, where the famous composer Camille Saint-Saëns (1835-1921) was born. If you happen to be lucky and the gate at the end of the street is open, I recommend you go inside and discover a series of 3 charming courtyards, connected to each other, called the Cour de Rohan.
Chances are you won't be able to get inside, so all you have to do is continue on Rue de l'Éperon towards Boulevard Saint-Germain and turn right. Walk to number 130 and you'll see a charming passageway that we'll enter in a few seconds, but first you're welcome to take a look in the opposite direction, i.e. on the other side of the street.
Opposite you will see the statue of Danton (Georges Jacques Danton 1759-1794), one of the leaders of the French Revolution, who sent quite a few people to the guillotine, until he himself was sent to it by Robespierre.
Not far from the statue there is a very nice cafe called Cafe Danton, where I had a nice breakfast and I definitely recommend it in case you feel like sitting down and drinking coffee in the middle of your trip (or just taking a pee).
At number 87, on the other hand, in a charming Haussmannian building, a beautiful dentist lives on the fifth floor. How do I know this? Because in 2016, while I was in Paris, I had a cavity in my tooth that became infected and caused me excruciating pain. A Parisian friend managed to get me an appointment that same day and she gave me a root canal. Her eyes were so blue and beautiful that no anesthesia was needed, all I had to do was look at them while she drilled my tooth, and the pain disappeared.
But let's get back to the reason we gathered here. Enter the passage and you will reach the Cour du Commerce Saint André. This open-air passage has existed since the 18s and has a fascinating history, including the fact that the first guillotine in Paris was built and tested here. If you want to read about the place, I highly recommend you read the article Cour du Commerce Saint André – The Charming Passage of the Left Bank.
The most romantic square in Paris
After exiting the other side of Cour du Commerce Saint André, turn left and continue until you reach Rue de Buci. This used to be one of the gates (Porte de Buci) of the Philippe Auguste wall, and today it is a lively and bustling street with quite a few restaurants, most of which are unfortunately quite mediocre.
Continue on this street and turn right onto Rue de Bourbon le Château, which becomes Rue de l'Abbaye, named after the Abbey of Saint-Germain, of which only a few parts have survived. Turn right and you will reach Place Fürstenberg, which in my opinion is the most romantic square in Paris.
This square was once the stables of the abbot of the monastery of Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Today, there are several boutique shops and the Eugène Delacroix Museum (Ferdinand Victor Eugène Delacroix 1798-1863). You can read more about the square and the museum in the article From the River to the Abbey , so I won't repeat everything I wrote there here.
Instead, let me recommend that you return to Rue de l'Abbaye and continue until you reach the Church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, one of the oldest churches in Paris. I highly recommend entering this church, which has undergone a massive renovation in recent years and the result is…beautiful!
If you would like to learn about the history of this ancient church, you are invited to visit the article The History of Saint-Germain-des-Prés – From an Ancient Monastery to the Church of Reason . If you would like to hear a concert in the church, you are invited to visit this link and see if there are any concerts on the days you are in Paris.
Here at the Church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés we end this itinerary. If you would like to continue walking, let me recommend the route between Saint-Germain and Saint-Sulpice , which starts right here and is a natural continuation of this route.
And if you have any strength left, here is the continuation of the route north of the Boulevard: from Saint-André-des-Zaire Street, through the Odeon Theater and the Luxembourg Gardens, to the Saint-Sulpice Church.
Saint André des Arts between the old café in Paris and the guillotine
13 rue de l'Ancienne-Comédie , and cour de Rohan
Continue on Rue Saint-André-des-Arts until you reach Cour Saint-André-des-Arts. There you will find Le Procop, the oldest café in Paris, and Un Dimanche a Paris, which sells excellent desserts. I also recommend visiting the La Jacobine teahouse, if only to see their murals (it is recommended to go there without children). Finally, if you are feeling a little adventurous, you are welcome to try visiting three charming courtyards called Cour de Rohan. These are private courtyards located to the left of the main alley of Cour Andre des Arts and as such require individual stealth and a little luck to avoid being caught…
From the Odeon Theater to the Luxembourg Gardens
Exit the Cour Andre des Arts onto Boulevard Saint Germain. Cross the boulevard and go up Rue de l'Odéon until you reach the theatre. Admire the theatre, which was built in the 18th and 19th centuries in neo-classical style and was the home of the Comédie Française.
From the Odeon Theater, continue towards the Luxembourg Gardens , one of the most charming gardens. The garden and palace were built in the 17th century at the request of the Queen of France, Marie de Medici. The palace remained as it is, but the gardens were completely changed during the 19th century, and despite this, the result is simply charming. I promise to write a post about it in the future, and in the meantime, allow yourself to sit in the garden, enjoy the atmosphere, and eat the cake that you probably bought at Un Dimanche a Paris. Then take a walk around the park and enjoy a view of the palace (now used by the Senate and therefore cannot be visited outside of heritage days), the fountain, the statues of the French monarchy, and… the miniature Statue of Liberty, which is hidden on the outskirts of the garden.
And before you move on, do you want to know what the Luxembourg Palace and gardens looked like in the 18th century? If so, you are welcome to watch this video:
From the Luxembourg Gardens to the Church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés
3 Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Have you finished enjoying the magic of the Luxembourg Gardens? Go to the Luxembourg Gardens Museum (the first museum in Paris, which preceded the Louvre ). There are temporary exhibitions there and it is recommended to keep up to date with them. If you decide not to go in, leave the Luxembourg Gardens and walk along Rue Ferrou. If you have read Alexandre Dumas’ book “The Three Musketeers” then you will surely remember that this is the street where Athos, one of the three musketeers, lives. At number 6 you can see the house of Mademoiselle Luzy, the first lover of Talleyrand, Napoleon’s famous foreign minister.
Continue down the street until you see the back of the Saint-Sulpice Church . Continue left and admire the Baroque church both inside and out (did you know that part of Dan Brown’s famous book “The Da Vinci Code” took place here?). One of the church towers has recently been renovated and renewed, as has the fountain in the square.
Walk down rue Bonaparte and if you want, buy yourself a macaron or two at Pierre Herme. Continue down the street until you reach Boulevard Saint-Germain. Cross the boulevard. Opposite you will find the Church of Saint-Germain , one of the oldest churches in Paris (construction began in the 6th century), while on your left you will find the cafes Flore and Deux Magots, where all the who's who of post-World War II Paris used to sit, including Sartre and Beauvoir (which is probably the reason for the outrageous prices there).
And before we end our trip, let's stop, rest for a moment, and watch a video that introduces us to 18th-century Saint-Germain. As you'll see, there's a good chance that if you were to go back to Paris in a time machine, you wouldn't recognize it...
Continue on Rue de l'Abbaye and you will see on your right the palace of Cardinal Furstenberg, which was built in the 17th century (currently under renovation). Turn left and you will reach Place Furstenberg, where the Delacroix Museum is located . In my opinion, this is the most romantic square in Paris, so if you have arrived there with your partner, this is the perfect time to end your tour with… a kiss.
Want to get more information about the Sixth District?
If this route has “whet your appetite” and you want to discover more of the secrets of the 6th arrondissement, known as the Saint-Germain district, let me recommend that you visit the Saint-Germain district for travelers page . There you will find recommended places to stay (hotels and vacation apartments), hiking routes, and of course many more routes that will help you discover the secrets of this charming district.
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