Parisians, as we know, love to eat well, so in every neighborhood you will find boulangerie, patisserie, promezieres and other food shops. However, there are a number of streets in Paris where you can find a concentration of such shops, and I call them culinary streets (for example Montreuil Street(I have written about it before.) However, none of them impressed me as much as a relatively unknown street in the heart of the Batignolles neighborhood, with an almost Jewish name: Rue de Lévis.
What's so impressive about a street that's neither long nor short, and doesn't contain any buildings with special architecture? The food, of course. I've visited quite a few culinary streets in Paris, and I don't remember such a concentration of food shops, including the number of shops whose owners were awarded the MOF (a title given to the best professionals in their field) per square kilometer.
Therefore, if you define yourself as a foodie, you are invited to join me (virtually) for a visit that is entirely a hymn to French cuisine (and not just French, as you will see) – a tour that will awaken your taste buds and make you want to run and eat something.
So forget about the diet for a moment and let's get started.
The history of Rue de Lévis
As some of you know, my love for Paris stems first and foremost from my love for its history, so before we embark on our culinary journey, let's step into the time elevator for a few minutes and learn a little about this street, which has existed in one version or another for many hundreds of years.
We go back in time, many years before Baron Haussmann (Georges-Eugène Haussmann 1809-1891) built the Paris Rebuilt and annexed quite a few villages, which became the outer districts of Paris. In those days, the entire area was essentially a forest, containing several villages, which would later become parts of the 17th arrondissement: Clichy and Batignolles.
An ancient road, created back in the days when Paris was called Lutetia, ran through the forest, leading west to the village of Aregenteuil and east to the Saint Honore Gate, which was once located not far from...Royal StreetOn this street, in 1429, passed Joan of Arc Together with her army, she was on her way to Paris, with the aim of liberating it from the hands of the English and their supporters (an unsuccessful attempt). This is Lewis Street.
How did this road get its name Levis? No, despite the Jewish-sounding name, the place is not named after the Levi family. The street is named after the noble family de Lévis, one of the oldest noble families in Paris, some claim that one of their sons was even baptized with Clovis, King France The first, at the beginning of the 6th century AD.
This is a very extensive family, with no less than 12 branches (of which only one branch survives), which gave France quite a few dukes, chiefs of staff, and more. One of them, the Marquis de Lévis (Marc-Antoine, marquis de Lévis 1739-1784), was the owner of the Monceau Castle, which covered a large part of the neighborhood and was demolished in 1840. This is the Lévis who gave his name to the street.
Speaking of the Marquis de Lévis, it must be noted that his wife, Madeleine Grimod de La Reynière (1744-1776), was the sister of Alexandre Grimod de La Reynière (Alexandre Balthazar Laurent Grimod de La Reynière 1758-1837).
Alexander is considered one of the greatest gastronomes in history and is definitely worthy of a separate article on the site (if you would like to hear more about him, you are welcome to listen toLecture by Yair Haido on French gastronomy). However, it is interesting to note that it was this same Alexander who invented the concept of stores that buy from farmers and sell the produce in the city (until then, buying and selling had been done in the various markets). As we will see, coincidentally or not, this street, named after his son-in-law, became the “Mecca” of these stores.
Before we delve into the food shops, it is interesting to note that although much of the area became a posh neighborhood during the 19th century, where many of the “who’s who” of Paris lived (you are invited to get to know the area via the walking tour). The secrets of the courtesan neighborhood), after all, this street is considered a street for workers and members of the relatively lower class.
It is therefore not surprising that house number 8 on the street was home to a club, frequented by some of the most famous leftists of the 19th century, including the feminist Louise Michel (1830-1905) and the famous writer Victor Hugo. There they used to raise radical political ideas, and when tempers flared, the club members would take to the streets shouting “Death to the bourgeois.” Today, the place has become a shop selling coffee, spices, and more, and nothing remains of the political fervor.
Instead we were left with a street of bakeries, shops Cheese, fruits, vegetables and meats, alongside cafes and restaurants. In my opinion, a good meal is far better than political debates, so all we have to do is take a stroll through the food stores to build ourselves the ultimate meal.
The culinary stronghold of De Lewis Street
Before we begin our tour of the street, it is important for me to note that due to the vast variety of shops, cafes and restaurants, I decided to focus solely on the food shops located on the street itself and did not visit the shops located on the streets that lead off from De Lewis Street. I also did not mention almost any restaurant or cafe located on the street, because I did not actually sit in them. If one day I eat at a good restaurant there, I promise to put it inList of recommended restaurants in Paris.
Maison Marques
Address: Rue de Lévis 6
This is a boulangerie owned by Carlos Marqeus and has two other branches, one in the suburb of Asniers and the other in Malmaison, where Josephine, Napoleon's wife, lived.
The first thing you notice is the long line at the place (I've been to the area several times and the line remains the same). Since, as far as I know, they don't give away free gold here, the reason for the place's popularity is the quality of its products.
What will you find here? Various types of bread (including gluten-free bread, the pride of the place), classic cakes (for example: peri-brest) and more modern cakes. The place also serves a sweet and savory brunch, and you can eat its cakes on the tables outside the shop (great for a coffee stop).
Link to the Boulangerie website
The Fine Tide
Address: Rue de Lévis 7
An excellent fish and seafood shop, owned by Stephane Minot, who was awarded the title of Meilleur Ouvrier de France, or MOF, for his work. In the shop you will find the produce of the Atlantic Ocean, caught off the coast of Brittany and Normandy. There are quite a few types of fish, salmon that they smoke on site and they will even be happy to build you a seafood platter! What more do fish lovers need?
Italian Cuisine
Address: Rue de Lévis 9
Do you like Italian food? This shop is especially for you. You will find cold cuts from Italy, fresh pasta, various dishes such as lasagna and of course tiramisu cake, which they make themselves. A short visit to the place and here you have an excellent lunch (yes, it is not purely French cuisine, but I will forgive you).
The House of Cyclades
Address: Rue de Lévis 21
A delicatessen that sells fresh Greek food, without any flavorings or preservatives. You'll find excellent terma (fish roe) salads, spinach filo pastries, and hot food, all served with a smile and excellent service.
If you wish, you can also sit outside and eat local delicacies at lunch (stuffed grape leaves, octopus salad, and more).
Arnaud Delmontel
Address: Rue de Lévis 25
Arnaud Delmontel is considered one of the best bakers in France and he even won first place inBaguette competition In 2007. In addition to excellent bread, you will also find mousse cakes here, such as La framboisine, and dry cakes, with the place's pride being its Cake Citron.
Link to the patisserie website
The Bilot du Coin
Address: Rue de Lévis 25
Almost every one of the stores I've mentioned so far is part of a chain of stores, but not this one. It's a butcher shop that has existed exclusively on this street since it opened.
You'll find everything you'd expect from a self-respecting Parisian butcher shop here: beef, lamb, pork, poultry, sausages, and more. True, if you don't live in an apartment (and preferably in the immediate vicinity), then you won't buy anything there except sausages. However, if you have an apartment and a little desire to cook... what a culinary feast you can create from everything you buy there!
Boucherie Centrale Lévis
Address: Rue de Lévis 26
Not far from the previous butcher shop, there is another family-run butcher shop that sells beef, poultry, and more.
You will also find several types of homemade pate and grilled chicken here, the wonderful smell of which made me want to stop everything and sit down to eat it (unfortunately, I had nowhere to do so, otherwise my trip would have ended there).
By the way, right next to them is a store for housewares, games, etc. owned by a nice Jew, so you are more than welcome to come by, speak Hebrew, and maybe leave with a pillow 🙂
Jeff of Brugge
Address: Rue de Lévis 27
True, it's a chain of quite a few stores throughout France and it's true that there are some reputable chocolatiers among them, but... if you're looking to bring a box of quality pralines to work (or to your home) and don't want to go bankrupt, then Jeff de Bruges is a completely legitimate option.
Hairy
Address: Rue de Lévis 39
The legendary Poulin store is located on Cherche Midi Street, in the district Saint Germain, however, if you miss his special bread, and you're in the area, you won't have to go all the way to the 6th arrondissement.
For those who don't know, Poulain's "flagship" is a rustic bread, each loaf of which weighs about 2 kg. This bread was first baked by Pierre Poulain in 1932, and the chain of stores has been owned by his family ever since.
However, man does not live on bread alone, so you will also find here Shosun or Pom and pear cake, which has also become, over the years, legendary. In short, you are completely sorted in the carbohydrate department.
Cheese and Detail
Address: Rue de Lévis 43
You bought bread at Foylan or one of the other boulangerie's I wrote about here, and now it's time to spread butter on it and put cheese on it. After all, we wouldn't eat bread without anything, right?
This is exactly what the Fromage et Détail store is for, where you can find a range of cheeses from all regions of France, fresh eggs, and of course, yellow butter, which is cut for you using a metal wire.
Chocolate Alain Ducasse
Address: Rue de Lévis 44
They weren't particularly nice, and unlike the others, they wouldn't let me take pictures inside (even though I told them I was Sharon Heinrich's long-lost brother 🙂 ). But hey, this is Alain Ducasse's chocolate shop and because they make divine chocolate, they can certainly afford to be like that.
The Cocoa Tree
Address: Rue de Lévis 46
Looking for high-quality chocolate without the saleswoman patronizing you? All you have to do is walk a few steps from Alain Ducasse's shop and enter Hubert Masse's shop, called Le Cacaotier.
Huber is in love with everything related to cocoa, and since 1995 he has been considered one of the best chocolatiers in France. Huber is involved from the beginning of the chocolate-making process (i.e. growing the cocoa beans) to the end, and the result: supreme chocolate. You will find dark chocolate, milk chocolate, pralines and even jams. In short: everything a glutton needs to finish a good meal (or just to snack on during the day).
Link to the website for Hoover Maas
La Belle-iloise
Address: Rue de Lévis 49
This is a family-owned factory outlet of a company fromBrittany region, which produces canned fish caught in the Quiberon and Belle Île areas, hence the company's name.
You will find not only sardines here, but also other fish such as tuna and the company prides itself on both the quality of the fish and the different drawings on each box (they hire a different artist to draw on the boxes each time). In my opinion, this is one of the best gifts you can bring to friends from France, because it is a gift that does not spoil, looks great and also tastes wonderful. In short, your friends will thank you and send you back to France to bring more.
Maison Le Bourdonnec
Address: Rue de Lévis 51
True, we had already visited several butcher shops during our trip to De Lois Street, but this butcher shop really shouldn't be ignored, as it's a butcher shop that takes itself very seriously.
The motto here is quality first and quantity second, and you can find fine cuts of meat, sausages, and more here. The prices are accordingly, but you have to pay for quality. Right?
Your posts and the website – blog in general, are an inspiration for professionalism, ease of search, interest and a lot of beauty. And the street sounds lovely and delicious to me of course… Happy Shabbat ♥️
Thank you very much and have a good weekend 🙂
Great article
Thanks!
There is always more to learn about Paris, it never ends…
Thank you very much 🙂
Dear deer
Your article is amazing. Very thorough and of course makes you want to travel and taste everything.
May you be blessed.
Thank you very much 🙂
Great article, many thanks.
Thank you very much 🙂
At number 42 there is a stone relief on the headstone, with what looks like a corn cob. You can see it on Google Street. I wonder what it is.
Where can I purchase butter from unpasteurized milk? Will Levi Street answer the request?
There are several stores there that sell dairy products, so there's definitely a chance you'll be thirsty for it there.
A rare product in Paris, go to the Trevor-Davenir Promenade, they usually have it, as well as the Grands Appartements de Paris
A beautiful article to make you want to and be curious,
For two weeks from morning to evening I plowed the street and its surroundings to build an advanced culinary tour. There is an exciting culinary scene on this street and its surroundings that obviously extends far beyond the sample in the article here. But this article is delicious and it makes you want to come and explore.
Without a doubt one of Paris' culinary locations.
So anyone who wants to explore the complex and experience the best of it is welcome to join our culinary tour of it.
http://www.hungryparis.com/