Le Procope – the oldest cafe in Paris

Le Procope is located on a small, elegant street in the 6th arrondissement of Paris, near the Odéon and in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés . If Café de Flore and Les Deux Magots represent the Paris of Sartre and de Beauvoir, Le Procope belongs to an earlier Paris: the Paris of the Enlightenment, the Encyclopedists, the French Revolution and philosophical debate – which groped its way to the forefront of the public stage.

This is the place most associated with Voltaire as a coffee consumer (addicted to the word, you'll find out), a Polemsen, and a man of the Enlightenment: not just a coffee shop he visited, but one of the clearest symbols of the culture that Voltaire is considered to represent: wit, anti-Declarationism, scientific curiosity, belief in the power of reason, and a deep, honed, and cynical hostility to institutionalized stupidity.

This article is part of a series we dedicated to the historic cafes of Paris , in which the entire spotlight is on Le Procope: the history, the atmosphere, up-to-date practical information, and of course our real recommendations for a visit.

This is the place most associated with Voltaire as a coffee drinker (addicted to the word, you'll find out), a Polemsen, and a man of the Enlightenment. It's not just a café he frequented, but one of the most prominent symbols of the culture that Voltaire is considered to represent: wit, anti-clericalism, scientific curiosity, faith in the power of reason, and a deep, honed, and cynical hostility to institutionalized stupidity.

history

Le Procope was opened in 1686 by Francesco Procopio dei Coltelli, a Sicilian who brought a new culture of coffee, ice cream, sorbet and more elegant service to Paris. At a time when coffee was still considered a foreign and exotic drink, after the failure of its initial introduction to the French public, Le Procope made it part of refined urban life. The timing was perfect. Shortly after, the Comédie-Française theater opened nearby, and the street became a natural thoroughfare for actors, playwrights, critics, nobles and writers.

Thus was created one of the most important arenas of Paris in the eighteenth century: not a private salon of the nobility, but an urban space where men of letters and politics could meet, debate, formulate ideas and test their power in public. In the eighteenth century, Le Procope became one of the centers most identified with the French Enlightenment. Voltaire, Rousseau, Diderot and d'Alembert were associated with it; later, American and revolutionary figures such as Benjamin Franklin and Thomas Jefferson also sat there, alongside figures of the French Revolution.

Character and atmosphere

The atmosphere of Le Procope is very different from that of the more modern cafes in Saint-Germain. It is not limited to sidewalk seating next to a wide front window. Le Procope is a place with an almost museum-like character: decorated walls, chandeliers, portraits, mirrors, historic rooms, a sense of institution and a space that seeks to remind the visitor that they are not just sitting down to a meal, but are dining in the midst of an ancient French story.

Famous personalities

The central name is of course Voltaire, but around him a whole map of eighteenth-century thought and statesmanship gathers. Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Denis Diderot, Jean Le Rond d'Alembert, the Marquis de Condorcet, Benjamin Franklin, Thomas Jefferson, Maximilien Robespierre, Georges Danton and Jean-Paul Marat are all linked to the story of the place.

Parisian scene

The most famous episode in the story is Voltaire's legendary habit of drinking enormous quantities of coffee, sometimes mixed with chocolate. The exact numbers belong to the realm of legend, but the story is symbolically accurate: it represents Voltaire as a man of pace, productivity, and extreme energy, precisely for the same world of enlightenment that was born around him.

The cafe today

Le Procope is still in business, but it serves primarily as a historic brasserie-restaurant rather than a classic intellectual café. The current experience is more of a French restaurant with a museum-like feel than one of sitting there for a few hours, with the cup of coffee remaining merely a decoration.

Le Procope is a place for a mindful visit: don't expect bohemian spontaneity; treat it as a well-preserved historical site. The best way to experience it is to wander through the rooms, notice the historical details, and sit down for a meal or an afternoon coffee.

How to get there?

The most convenient station is Odéon, which is a very short walk away and serves metro lines 4 and 10. You can also get there from Mabillon or Saint-Germain-des-Prés. From Notre-Dame you can get there on foot (about a quarter of an hour's walk) via the Left Bank and the Saint-Michel area.

The visit combines well with the nearby Cour du Commerce Saint-André; with Saint-Germain's two legendary cafés, Café de Flore and Les Deux Magots , within walking distance.

What to order?

Since Le Procope is now primarily a restaurant, the right visit could be for lunch or dinner, not just a quick coffee. Historical dishes include Coq au vin, Joue de bœuf braise (braised beef cheek), or Ravioles du Dauphiné. For those looking for a lighter experience, opt for Parisian onion soup, escargot, beef tartare, or a dessert such as crème brûlée or mille-feuille. Ordering a coffee or a chocolate-coffee dessert is particularly fitting for the myth of Voltaire and his love of coffee.

Questions and Answers about Le Procope

Le Procope is part of another series of ours on the mythical cafes of Paris. For all the additional addresses and the full list, you can return to the main article on the historic cafes of Paris.