The 16th arrondissement of Paris is one of the largest districts of the city, and although it is a wealthy district, some of it is close to important attractions such as Eiffel Tower וBoulogne Forest, a significant portion of tourists miss this district and do not travel there.
I admit that I rarely visited it seriously either, as I often preferred to explore more deeply beloved districts such as the Marais. However, in April 2024, I decided it was time to give the 16th arrondissement the respect it deserves, and I dedicated several days to this district, during which I walked around it intensively.
The trips made me fall in love with this charming district, because it has exactly everything that makes me love the city. Paris So much: a fascinating history with lots of interesting stories and amazing aesthetics. Since it is a very large district, it cannot be explored in one route (or even two), so this time I decided to focus on the Passy neighborhood, which was once a village that was annexed to Paris in 1860.
This is a very luxurious neighborhood, where the rich and famous of Paris lived for many years, and together we will discover quite a few stories that took place during the 18th, 19th, and 20th centuries. This route is indeed for “advanced Francophiles,” because there are no huge attractions there, but even “beginner Francophiles” who are looking for something to do before or after climbing the Eiffel Tower can enjoy it.
Secrets of Le Marais: A Journey into the Historic and Chic Heart of Paris
Join us on a virtual journey to the most fascinating district in Paris. Together we will discover hidden courtyards, French nobility, and the true stories behind the magnificent facades.
Route map in the Passy neighborhood and the starting point
Here is the map that contains all the important points we will visit during the route.
As you can see, I have also added recommended hotels to the map, in case you want to live in Passy. If you are interested in an apartment, let me recommend you: Audi's apartment on Nicolo Street, where Dr. Orna Lieberman lived (you are invited to read her review) In this link).
We will start our tour outside the Passy metro station where line 6 runs. If you want to start your trip “properly”, I highly recommend taking this line from the left bank on the Bir Haqim bridge, to see the Eiffel Tower in all its glory, and then getting off at the next stop Passy. It’s a great way to start your trip.
If you've already exited the metro at Passy or reached the station on foot, it's time to get going.
The itinerary in the Passi neighborhood
It doesn't start until the fat singer sings.
As you can see, the Passy metro is above ground. Once you exit it, take the stairs down until you reach Square d'Alboni.
The square is named after the singer Marietta Alboni (1826-1894), one of the most successful opera singers in Paris, who was discovered in Italy by none other than the famous composer Rossini.
Alboni had an extensive international career, during which she managed to marry a Roman nobleman, and after being widowed, she remarried a French officer.
During her career she amassed quite a bit of money and ordered that upon her death her money be distributed to all sorts of charitable organizations. Thanks to these charitable acts, and thanks to the fact that she was the one who financed the square you are in with her money, it was decided to name this square after her. If you would like to lay a wreath on her grave, by the way, you are welcome to visitPere Lachaise.
If you would like to raise a glass of wine (virtually) in honor of the noble opera singer, take a right on Rue des Eaux, named after the healing springs that used to be in Passy (the clean, healthy water remains, only the spa has closed), until you reach the Wine Museum.
This is a 19th-century building, which is essentially an imitation of an 18th-century building (that's how it is in the 19th century, they don't have their own style, except for the Haussmannian buildings, and all they have is neo-Gothic, neo-Baroque, etc. And the truth is, I don't say this to condemn the 19th century, but quite the opposite, it is the century that created the most beautiful buildings in Paris in my opinion).
Underneath this beautiful building is a 14th-century wine cellar that belonged to the Order of the Minimes, who had a vineyard nearby. Today, it is a museum that presents the history of wine in the area through wax figures. Here is a short article (in French) to help you understand what's inside.
The museum is open every day, except Sundays and Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:00. Tickets can be purchased on site or On the museum website.
Residence of Marie Antoinette's friend, insane asylum and Turkish embassy (all in one building)
Retrace your steps a little and continue to 10 Rue Charles Dickens. It is a rather ugly block of buildings, but if you go inside and cross the courtyard, Parc de Passy awaits you. It is a modern but pleasant park and if you feel like it, you are welcome to walk around it and even sit there for a while.
Once you have done this, you are welcome to continue straight to the other end of it, which ends at Rue d'Ankara. There, at number 7, the singer Dalida lived, about whom you can read in Dr. Orna Lieberman's comprehensive article. Dalida forever.
As you walk down Ankara Street, you will surely notice a stone fence and a gate. This is the side entrance to the Turkish Embassy, and since it is a rather hostile country, we cannot go inside, which is a shame.
The embassy is located in the Hôtel de Lamballe, which belonged to her best friend. Marie Antoinette And it has a fascinating story. If you want to hear the tragic story of the princess, you are welcome to watch the following video.
If the princess's story intrigued you, check out the article about Hotel de Lamballe And read more about this palace, which also served as a madhouse for high society members, before becoming the Turkish embassy (which, judging by the behavior of their president, is also a kind of madhouse).
Turn north on the street and walk until you reach the charming Rue Breton on your left. Enter the street and, as if by magic, you will feel as if you have left the city and moved to the countryside.
Go to number 24 and you will discover a sign from 1731, indicating that this is where the border between the Counties of Passy and Auteul crossed.
The houses of Balzac and Franklin
Continue on Breton Street and turn right onto the path that will lead you to Raynouard Street. There, at number 47, you will find the Balzac Museum.
This building was where the great writer lived from 1840 to 1847, and it is here that he wrote some of his greatest works while hiding from debt collectors. This is a charming, free museum with a small garden and a shop where you can buy books and more, and is recommended even for people who have not read any of the writer's books.
There is quite a bit to write about this house, so I created an entire article just about it. If you would like to get to know the house before your visit, you are welcome to enter To my article about the Balzac House.
After visiting Balzac's house, head to 42 Rue Raynouard, more or less opposite the museum. Today it is a Haussmannian building, but in the 18th century it was home to the Hôtel de Valentinois, which was rented to Benjamin Franklin in 1776.
Franklin, who was the ambassador of the colonies, which would become the United States of America in a few years, and here he met all the great figures of French culture and politics of the time. He also engaged in scientific experiments here, the most famous of which was the construction of a lightning rod to study electricity.
During the 19th century, the building where Franklin lived became a boarding school for boys, and was eventually demolished and the beautiful building you see now was built. As you can see, on the wall of the building there is a relief noting the distinguished American guest who once lived here.
Clemenceau's house and the perfect place for a selfie with the Eiffel Tower
Continue on Rue Rayounard, and you can enjoy a few Art Deco houses as you walk. Take for example this house at number 15, which has a charming little garden overlooking the Left Bank.
Continue on to Costa Rica Square and then to Franklin Street, where the house of Georges Clemenceau (1841-1929) is located. Clemenceau had a long and “action-packed” life, starting from his days as Prime Minister Montmartre Municipality During the Commune, through his activities during the Dreyfus Affair and ending with his becoming Prime Minister during the most critical periods of World War I.
One day I will write an article that summarizes the fascinating life story of “The Tiger” (as he was called), but until then I highly recommend you visit his house, which has been turned into a museum dedicated to his life.
The museum is open Tuesday-Saturday from 14:00 PM to 17:30 PM. The museum is closed on Sundays and Mondays, and is also closed every August and on holidays, so plan your visit there carefully. More information about the museum can be found On his official website.
After visiting the museum, continue on Franklin Street and turn right onto Avenue de Camoens. This street is named after the Portuguese poet Luís de Camões (1525-1580) and the buildings on it were built in the early 20th century, but that's not why I brought you here.
This is one of the most beautiful places to take photos, with the Eiffel Tower right next to it. That's why if you come here early in the morning, you'll find a long line of people in their best clothes, standing and taking photos, mostly wedding photos, but I've also seen professional photos of a sweet Japanese girl in traditional clothing.
I took a picture of her, but unfortunately, since she's a minor, I'm not allowed to show you her picture, so instead I provided you with a picture of two bloggers taking a selfie, and if you want more pictures from the same place, here are some pictures of couples.
In short, if you happen to live in the Passy neighborhood, as I recommended at the beginning of the article, and you like to take pictures, get up early and head to this little street. I promise you'll come away with a set of lovely photos!
The Aristocratic Necropolis of Paris
Return to Franklin Street and continue forward until you reach Yorktown Square, where you will find the statue of Benjamin Franklin, who, as mentioned, lived in Passy.
Directly opposite this small garden is the Passy Cemetery, also known as the aristocratic necropolis of Paris, because quite a few of the wealthy residents of the district decided to be buried there.
This is a relatively small and intimate cemetery, and there are quite a few interesting graves there. I highly recommend you take between half an hour and an hour and stroll leisurely among the graves, to enjoy both the morbid aesthetics and the stories that emerge from those graves.
If you decide to take my advice and go visit there, you are welcome to enter the article Passy Cemetery: A final resting place with a view of the Eiffel Tower, where you will receive not only practical information (when the place is open, etc.), but also some stories about those buried there.
Another opportunity to take a selfie with the Eiffel Tower
After you've finished visiting the Passy Cemetery, head to the Trocadero Palace, which is a short distance south of the cemetery.
There are several interesting museums there, but that's not why so many people come there every day. The reason, as you've probably guessed, is to photograph the Eiffel Tower, and even more importantly, to take a picture with it.
In May 2024, I was here at 7am to shoot a short video for the website. The cold was almost unbearable, but that didn't stop the brides in light clothing and even the dancer in minimal clothing (relative to the weather) from stoically posing on the plaza, knowing that it might be warmer and more pleasant in a few more hours, but the crowds of people who would arrive there wouldn't really allow for a one-on-one photo with the Eiffel Tower. Here are the two most beautiful photos I took there:
If you didn't arrive at 7am to take pictures and get your picture taken, you'll be happy to know that there's quite a bit to see and do at the Trocadero Palace. To tell you the interesting story behind the palace and provide you with all the information you need to visit the museums there, read this article. Trocadero Gardens Paris – The Unknown Stories.
A musical love story between a homosexual and a lesbian
After you've finished visiting the museums of the Trocadero Palace (and maybe also You climbed the Eiffel Tower.). Walk down Avenue Georges Mandel until you reach the intersection with Rue du Pasteur Marc Boegner. What you will discover is a magnificent building that contains an interesting story.
This magnificent building, called the Hôtel de Polignac, belonged to Prince Edmond de Polignac (1834-1901) and his wife Winnaretta Singer (1865-1934). The story of the Polignac couple is very unique, because the count was homosexual and his wife was a lesbian, and yet (and perhaps because of this) they remained friends until the prince's last day. If you would like to read more about this special couple, you are welcome to visit the article In happiness and wealth.
Both spouses were very fond of music, and Winaretta Singer was a patron of some of the most important composers of the 20th century, including Maurice Ravel and Erik Satie. After her death, the magnificent building passed to the Fondation Singer-Polignac, created by Winaretta Singer in 1928.
Since its founding, the association has supported promising young musicians, allowing them to practice and perform at the Hôtel de Polignac. Here is a short video filmed at one of the concerts held there (the keen-eyed will be able to see the reflection of Vinerta Singer's portrait in the mirror).
If you would like to enjoy one of these concerts, you are welcome to come in. To the official website of the association And see what concerts will be taking place during your stay in Paris.
Continue on Avenue Georges Mandel, which later becomes Avenue Henri Martin and walk to number 71. There you will find the magnificent town hall building of the 16th arrondissement.
The city hall was built between 1875-1876, and if you go inside you can see a number of interesting statues, including a head sculpture of the famous writer Prosper Mérimée (1803-1870), who is responsible for the novel Carmen, which was turned into a famous opera thanks to Bizet.
I visited the place in April 2024, and with all due respect to the beauty of the building, what moved me most was the sign for the return of the hostages that the municipality hung on the facade.
The hidden tower and a lovely Portuguese restaurant
Retrace your steps a little and turn onto Rue de la Pompe, continue until the intersection with Rue de la Tour, turn left and continue until number 86.
The building’s facade is quite ugly and is now a high school, but if you are allowed to enter the courtyard, you will discover an impressive tower (which gave the street its name). What you see is a 19th-century reconstruction of a much older tower that stood here in the 14th century and was the residence of King Philip IV, known as “the Handsome” (reigned 4-1285), when he visited Passy.
If the sight of the tower or the miles you've covered so far have made you hungry, you'll be happy to hear that at number 90 there's a cute bistro with the unpretentious name Bistrot Le 90. It's a family restaurant with Portuguese touches, open all day (except Sundays).
I had chicken with Portuguese seasoning there, which was juicy, slightly spicy, and delicious. The service was also very friendly, so I recommend eating there if you're looking for a light meal without the pretensions of Michelin stars.
The end of the trip
Continue on Rue de la Tour and turn onto Rue Cortambert. Continue until you reach the intersection with Rue Scheffer and turn left. Walk until you reach number 51, where you will find Villa Scheffer.
The street and the villa are named after the painter Ary Scheffer (1795-1858), a very talented Dutch painter who managed to establish a name for himself not only thanks to his talent, but also thanks to the fact that he was the art teacher of the daughters of a king. France The last, namely Louis Philippe (reigned between 1830-1848). To some of you, the name Ari Sheffer may sound a little familiar due to Museum of Romantic Life, located in the house where he lived and dedicated to him and Georges Sand.
If you were expecting a villa (i.e. a large, luxurious house), you might be a little disappointed, as a villa in French is basically a small, dead-end alley. However, if you look inside, you will find a charming 19th-century building that is definitely worth a look.
And here, in front of this house, we end our tour of the 16th arrondissement. From here you can easily return to Avenue Georges Mandel and from there you can walk in a few minutes to the Rue de la Pompe metro station (line 9), which can take you back to the center of Paris.
I hope this trip made you fall in love with the Passy neighborhood, as it did for me, and that you are left wanting more.
Want to visit more places in the 16th arrondissement?
Here are more articles about the neighborhood.
Hi Zvi. My name is Rina Sternbach. I fell in love with this city from my first visit in 2019.
I just celebrated my 65th birthday. I just made it before Corona. We traveled with our daughter.
We decided to take an independent trip. Unorganized. We just plowed through the most famous places.
After having already visited London, Berlin, Budapest, Prague, Vienna, Dublin and other Baltic countries,
When I returned from Paris, I was already dreaming about this city, stunning, beautiful, with a strong desire to return to Paris.
And this year, in honor of my 70th birthday, we were with my daughter for a whole week. We came back with a desire for more.
I thank you for the articles and routes you share with us. You are always a pleasure to read. Well done, Zvi.
Glad to hear 🙂
A lovely article, just a small comment: in the paragraph about the aristocrats’ cemetery, it says “the wealthy” and not the durable. If they were very durable, they wouldn’t have ended up in the cemetery…
Thank you very much. I fixed it.
Beautiful article,
Indeed, it is a neighborhood that many people don't know about, and for some reason even tourist guides claim that there is nothing to do there.
Wrong, as you have proven.
By the way, the neighborhood municipality always has an Israeli motif at the entrance. I don't know, maybe because the neighborhood is home to many wealthy Jews who moved here from the Mara.
I once took a friend out in the evening and surprised him with the view of the Eiffel Tower from Trocadero station.
Thank you.
I was happy to read,
The 16th arrondissement, which includes Passy, is one of the "younger" districts that was annexed to Paris in the 19th century by Baron Haussmann.
The mayor of the district for many years was Claude GOASGUEN, who was a passionate supporter and defender of everything related to the people of Israel.
Thank you very much for such a detailed explanation that allows the reader to experience an experience as if he were there. And how great the experience would be to visit there, to travel there, and to walk step by step with each recommendation you gave. You made it possible to experience an exciting experience even before the actual visit. There are no words, many thanks
Thank you very much for the support 🙂