Montmartre: The Wall of Love and the Mystery of the Woman on the Wall – In the Hidden Garden

What a magnificent cluster of charming properties, including Abesses Square (which commemorates nuns who once lived in a monastery on the hill)…

It has a reddish brick church, “Saint Jean l’Evangeliste,” built around 1900, incorporating innovative and bold materials in its construction (reinforced concrete and cast iron), its roof is made of bricks and ceramics, and it stands out to this day with its oriental Art Nouveau decoration;

And right in front of it – stands the entrance station to the “Metro Abbes” – by Hector Gima, designed from green iron that undulates in a spiral-arabesque-floral line, so typical of the Art Nouveau style of 1900.

And it is important to note that both the church and the metro station faced opposition and a host of setbacks from Rothschild when they were built because of the avant-garde nature of their style;

And right at the end of the square – an entrance to a secret, hidden, intimate garden – “Square Jehan Rictus” – which is a charming corner and includes fruit trees, plants, pergolas, a fountain, benches…

The story of the hidden garden of Montmartre

The garden commemorates the pen name of the poet and writer Gabriel Rendon, who was born in 1867, experienced an unhappy and miserable childhood, and realized his talents in Paris - in Givat Montmartre !

It was there – against the backdrop of the cabarets, bars, taverns, and the diverse audience of artists and anarchists – that his folk poetry became famous in the Parisian street style, which so suited the spirit and atmosphere on the hill.

And now to the point:

In 2000, a “Love Wall” was installed on one of the walls adjacent to the garden.

A colorful, playful, fascinating and surprising project – that brought to life a sleepy, gray, and monotonous wall that bordered the garden, and turned the hidden garden into a pilgrimage center.

The work, which covers 40 square meters, consists of 612 bluish ceramic tiles, dotted with red heart fragments and a multitude of “I love” sentences in all languages ​​(calligraphy – Keller Kyoto).

Frederick Baron, who conceived the project, imagined a wall that sang a hymn to love, reconciliation, dialogue, cooperation, and the erasure of borders, in contrast to the contemporary, fragmented, divided, and violent world that is closed within its own borders.

At the same time, in 2000, the installation “The Wall of the Self I Love” appeared above – a mural depicting a slender and sensual female figure with black hair dressed in a tight dress and long gloves as she leans nonchalantly on a side table.

In 2009, her female figure changed and stood out with her light hair.

Who is the painter? Who is in the painting? Why have the figures in the additional painting changed over time???

It turns out that the painter – JEAN-MARC PAUMIER (born 1952, born in Freiburg and moved to Paris) has been involved in murals, graffiti and collages in urban spaces since 1991.

His activity appears under the name Rue Meurt d'Art” – as it appears in his paintings. In his work – he is aware of the strong visual impact that the city walls have and therefore “lets the walls speak” “Les murs ont la parole”, and people – “share the experience of creating the street” = La rue en partage.

In his collages and murals, Jean Marc appeals to the collective memory of the city's people and makes them recall shared experiences that left an impression. He draws and pastes movie stars, political figures, intellectuals, prominent women on the walls, and even adds "bubbles" of philosophical musings - as can be seen in all the photos I've uploaded. He even involves passersby in hanging the finished work on the wall...

His unique working technique allows for a long life for his collages and paintings. The recurring blue color in his works (and emphasized in the dresses of Eva Gardner and Rita Hayworth) also stands out – and this is as a tribute to the object of his admiration – the painter Jacques Monoury, born in Montmartre, who painted in blue monochromaticity.

The Mystery of the Wall of Love

And now – back to the “I Love Wall” and Jean Marc’s mural.

From 2000 to 2009, a painting of Eva Gardner in a position that immortalizes her character as Kitty, from the film “The Killers” – 1946, hung above the installation.

After 2009 – Eva’s image was deleted and a new painting appeared featuring Rita Hayworth from the film “Guild” – 1946 (pictures 2 and 5). This is the painting that exists to this day!!!

Rita in the painting as in the film – standing out in her sensual dress and long gloves, and echoing the memory of her singing and dancing scene – within the film (appears in one of the first comments).

And here is a mystery!

It turns out that the outline of the first painting (Ava Gardner) that adorned the wall until 2009 – simply refused to be completely erased! Which caused the amusing situation, that right next to the new painting, this time of Rita Hayworth, the remains of Ava Gardner's outlines are sticking out...

A ghost?
The fate of a painting?
The illusion of time?
What is important?
Murals have their own rules.

One can take comfort in the “thought bubble” in which Jean Marc shares his embracing, enveloping, comforting insight with viewers:

“Love always creates disorder and chaos.
"So – let's love."

Want to stroll through Montmartre and discover more secret places?

Get a number Itineraries To help you discover many of the neighborhood's secrets:

• Montmartre of the great artists  – This is the classic Montmartre itinerary that will help you discover its main attractions. Great if you Traveling to Paris for the first time.
• A trip in the footsteps of Picasso – During this route, which takes place mostly in the 18th arrondissement but ends In the 3th arrondissement You will discover the main places where Picasso lived and worked until he became successful and famous following his painting “Les Demoiselles d’Avignon.”
• Culinary itinerary – If you are less interested in art and more in culinary art, you are welcome to follow in the footsteps of Fanny Rothstein and discover some of the best patisseries in Montmartre.
• A trip based on the film Amelie – The film Amelie, which takes place mostly in the 18th arrondissement, became one of the most successful French films upon its release and, in my opinion, the best film ever made in France. With this itinerary, you will discover some of the main locations that appeared in the film and relive their magic.

And one last thing, after you've finished strolling through Montmartre itself, don't miss the The charming cemetery, which is located at the foot of the hill.