A historical, artistic and culinary itinerary in the Montmartre district of Paris

That she is carrying, and looking out over this beautiful city.
That it has ups and downs and tall, green trees, bent from the strong winds and the weight of the years.
It has small, hidden squares, narrow, winding streets, and charming architecture.
Which received eternal life thanks to the artists and art who chose to sit near it, create, live and die in it.

Montmartre itinerary map

Walking route: 5 km
Metro: Lamarck Caulaincourt (Green 12)

The climb up the stairs from the metro hints – but does not deter – what awaits us in the neighborhood today.

Japan and France

As usual, I start with a patisserie owned by one Boris Loma.
Small, beautiful and ancient.
lovely.
The ceilings are hand-painted by an artist and the colorful tiles on the walls catch the eye.
As usual, I stand in front of a beautiful display of colorful pastries, decorated and carved by an expert. The deliberation is long and in the end, we settle on a green matcha tart and a lemon tart, which will always be one of my favorites.
It turns out that Shloma lived and worked in Japan, and that's where he gets his inspiration.
The beautiful and exquisite matcha tart is perfect.

It is decorated with burning raspberries and the combination of the pale and delicate cream and the tart and cheeky raspberries creates a wonderful harmony in the mouth. My bites are getting longer, I want to capture this pleasure before it disappears.
The lemon tart is also beautiful and incredibly delicious. It is modestly decorated with fresh mint leaves, the cream is moderately sour, and the bottom of the tart is crispy and caramelized, crumbling in your mouth.
There's no better way to start the day.

Address: Boris Lume, rue Caulaincourt 48, Paris. Metro Lamarck-Caulaincourt

This chocolate is wonderful.

Right across from Boris Lomer and across the street is another well-known chocolatier and patisserie in the city.
And he is huge.
Pastries, ice cream, candies, cookies, chocolate sculptures in different flavors, shapes and colors, crazy chocolate desserts like: the bag of chocolates we ask him to pack, I don't know when we'll eat it but I won't leave here without it. Like candies he makes coated in a thin, bitter chocolate layer in flavors of basil, orange or berries and he calls them pop art.

And how can you resist his golden cigars and chocolates?
Please, pack me this and that and that.
And from this……
Everything fits into my backpack, which I use for sweet tours in the sweetest city in the world.

Address: Arnaud Larher 53 Rue Caulaincourt, 75018 Paris

L'Andre and Marcel

We return to the other side of the street, a few meters further, and to our right is a staircase, like many we will encounter today. We climb it and it leads us to one of the sweetest streets in the neighborhood.
Panting and gasping for breath, we reach the top.
Here on the right is the beautiful and prestigious L'André Street.
This street is small and short, with beautiful private houses in the style of English cottages, and some say that the windows of their owners offer the most beautiful view of the city.
Right at the entrance to the street on the right is a beautiful and elegant modern cafe.
A coffee break here is essential, mainly due to the beauty of the street and the cafe.
It's calm and green here, there is no tourist traffic at all, and if there is, it is very sparse.
These prefer to concentrate on Skara-Kar or Plas Tartre, which we will also visit today.
In the meantime, we enjoy this green silence and wandering through the small, hidden streets that are nestled in beautiful little squares.

And thank you, God of coffee, coffee shops, and the pleasant breeze that caresses us.

Address: Villa Léandre, 75018 Paris, France
Address: Marcel, 1 Villa Léandre, 75018 Paris, France

Place Dalida

Leaving Marseille, we turn and wind our way along the street to the left until we reach another beautiful, shady square. This is Place Dalida. A statue stands in the center of the small square. Dalida was a beloved singer and actress, her home is not far from here and she is buried inThe Green Cemetery in Montmartre.
Across from the square, another street winds its way, and from it the Sakra-Ker is already peeking out.
On the left is the staircase, which is a close friend of the one we climbed here with.
And to the right of the square is a road leading to the historic and beautiful Lapic Street.
We choose to turn right on the way to Lapik, and after 200 meters we stop.

If you would like to read more about Dalida, you are invited to read the lovely article by Dr. Orna Lieberman. Dalida forever.

Address: Place Dalida, 75018 Paris, France

The man who walks through walls

We stopped to see the man walking through the walls.
It's a charming and interesting metal sculpture that peeks out from the wall and is a tribute to the book by Marcel Ayme, who lived and worked most of his life here.

Address: 4 Pl. Marcel Ayme, 75018 Paris, France

We continue along the street and arrive at Lepik Street.

La Moulin de la Galette

This is the last flour station on the hill that was turned into a restaurant and is in the center of the charming Lepik Street, which winds and rises (and descends), which has preserved its character, its beautiful and original buildings, is historic and was home to artists like Van Gogh, who spent a short period of time here.
A stroll down this beautiful street reveals small, blue signs simply inscribed with the names of the artists who lived here.
Le Moulin de la Galette, 83 Rue Lepic, 75018 Paris, France

Place Du Tertre

Place Tartre was once full of painters, artists, and scattered easels, on which the artists labored to paint the profiles or faces of tourists.
Today the square itself is mostly packed with restaurants and crowds of tourists.
The artists themselves have moved to a small alcove in the square, and still, for a few dozen euros, you can have your portrait illustrated or painted.
To our left is the Dali Museum.
I'm crazy about Dali, but today I'm planning on another museum that I've never been to before.
Address: Place du Tertre, 75018 Paris, France

Street Gallery

On the way to the Montmartre History Museum, we pass a street that is a street gallery, mainly of bright and playful paintings and ceramic works.
A few more meters downhill and right on our right is the turnoff to the Hill History Museum.

Address: Rue salules 1 paris

Montmartre History Museum

This is a charming little museum.
charming.
The old building overlooks the foot of the hill, is open to the view and spaces of the city, and is mainly surrounded by green slopes and a relatively large green garden for the building.
Surprising.
On one of the slopes they even grow vines.
There are no great works by great artists here, but there is the history of the world-famous hill, from the moment it was a bare rocky mountain, through the flour stations that embedded it, to the present day.
Charming and colorful posters of the Poly Braga and the Moulin Rouge, the two famous can-can clubs in the city, and the way this dance went from a questionable dance to a dance that is art.

The garden is also full of statues and benches overlooking the charming view.
Here we open the backpack and in the box is a chocolate "sack" filled with chocolate mousse enriched with mandarin orange pieces and hazelnuts, a bottom of crispy dough and hazelnuts, and on top of all this beauty, a perfectly roasted and gold-plated hazelnut.

Address: Museum of Montmartre, 12-14 Rue Cortot, 75018 Paris, France

For more information and to purchase a ticket, click here.

the sacred heart

We have visited this church before and it is beautiful on the outside and relatively simple on the inside.
But the big bonus is the spectacular view of the entire city from it.
In the distance you can see the tower.Eiffel, the Montparnasse Tower, the Center Pompidou The colorful and elegant dome of the Pantheon.

Sacré-Cœur, 35 Rue du Chevalier de la Barre

Fabric Market

Down the wide stairs below the church is Saint-Pierre Street, where I like to wander and buy French textiles or fabric scraps, to which the word "remnant" does an injustice: remnants for upholstering armchairs and chairs, remnants that at ridiculous prices are transformed into beautiful tablecloths, curtains or bed linen, a laundry bag.
Today I'm buying a "leftover" like this for 10 euros, checkered in red and white. A little seam at the edge and it will turn from a leftover into a cool tablecloth for country meals.

Address: 1 Place Saint-Pierre, 75018 Paris, France

Pastries and Awakening Abs

https://youtu.be/pldE0NDMzj0

We were hungry.
We have plans for a meal elsewhere, so we have our mid-morning snack at a local boulangerie, whose owner has won awards mainly for his baguettes but the savory pastries are also delicious. We bite into the wonderful cheese pastries, stroll through the green, charming and emerging neighborhood of Ebbs and admire the shady squares and small streets.

Abs was and still is a neighborhood of the common class, and there are also quite a few immigrants.
Something good has been happening to it in recent years, as it has in other neighborhoods: Canal Saint-Martin, Belleville, and La Sentier: young people and families who were fed up with the crazy housing prices moved to the suburbs of the city and made their home there, establishing restaurants and cafes and galleries and designer shops. And it's lovely.
A stroll down the lively and vital Abs Street paints a gallery of people, mostly locals, black and white, immigrants and young families.
Magic of a place.

Address: Le Grenier à Pain, 38 Rue des Abbesses, 75018 Paris, France

The best ice cream

A minute before we leave this charming neighborhood, we stop at a good ice cream parlor.
Excellent.

I pounce on the wonderful chocolate popsicle, rich in vanilla, pieces of tart raspberries, coated in green matcha, roasted pistachios, and the scent of intoxicating roses.

Address: Rue des Abbesses, 44, 75018 Paris, France

We pass the beautiful and unique church from the outside (it is simple and interesting inside), the charming and colorful graffiti that catches the eye and continue down to Rue des Martires.

Martyrs Street

Those who love gastronomy.
Those who shop for food, fruits and vegetables, CheesesPatisserie and boulangerie excite him, anyone who lives and breathes the culinary world must walk this street.
This street is dizzying.
It has everything, everything is organized and eye-catching, and it never ends.
Perfect pleasure.
The street itself begins in the 18th arrondissement, crosses Boulevard Clichy, descends and winds down into the 9th arrondissement.
We are with him.

And we pass and stop by two patisseries, one next to the other, one owned by a guy who came from Marseille and prepares all the French classics with deliberate carelessness (Pierre Herma would have died if his macaron had turned out like that), his breads are wonderful, wonderful, and in the patisserie next to it we bite into a wonderful lemon tart with a non-classical look, relaxed and delicious.
Next up is a patisserie entirely dedicated to the most pampered French cookie I know: the madeleine.
And they make sweet madeleines and even savory madeleines.

Address: Mesdemoiselles Madeleines, 37 Rue des Martyrs

Cadet Street

And the beauty of Rue des Martyrs, which is very close to another gastronomic street – Rue Cadet.
It is also small and full of charming cuisine.
There are also restaurants and bars here, most of them in the "flea market" style.
There is no formality, there are young bars and loose music and an atmosphere of freedom in the air.
There's a store here that specializes only in foie gras, a fromagerie where I load up on more cheeses, God help me, and even a kosher supermarket.

On this street we end this magical day at a delicious rotisserie that is a classic. French: Roasted chicken, juicy and browned, with potatoes in butter and cream, soft, browned and wonderful.
But, what a day it was today.

Address: Rôtisserie Stévenot, rue Cade 7 Rue Cadet, 75009 Paris

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