Jazz in Paris – Recommendations and a bit of history by Zeev Ben Nachum

Although I have been listening to classical music since childhood, and even a fan of some of it, my main interest in music is jazz. Every time I visit Paris, I visit several jazz clubs – which are a significant part of the experience.

For all those who share my love of jazz, below is information on the subject and at the end a description of my path to building a jazz program during my visit.

Full Disclosure: While writing this post, I was listening to a lot of jazz.

Jazz in France – a bit of history

The French were first exposed to jazz during World War I, when jazz bands arrived to entertain American soldiers at the front, especially the band of the 369th Infantry Regiment – ​​which was composed entirely of blacks.

The Crazy Years (Les anéens folles) that came after World War I were characterized by a liberated, permissive, and promiscuous atmosphere, with a sense of “the end of history.” During these years, this style of music began to flourish, which was innovative and suited to the general mood of innovation.

It was Scott Fitzgerald who called the 20s “the Jazz Age.” In both the US and France, its vibrant sound became the perfect antidote to the post-war years, helping to cleanse itself of its terrible memories.

During the 20s, many American artists, writers, and musicians (among other nationalities) left their countries to come to Paris, which was known for its more liberal lifestyle. It was a place to party, be extravagant, and forget the horrors of war.

Also, due to the fact that blacks were not discriminated against in France, black artists and intellectuals – including jazz artists – flocked to France (Paris, Nice), where they were accepted as equals.

Jazz was especially appreciated by young people, and in the early 30s a group of Parisian students founded a jazz club. At first they just listened to the music, but later they became its ambassadors. The club – Hot Club de France – quickly grew into an important organization working to promote jazz in France.

Hugues Panassié was the president, and Charles Delaunay was the secretary. In 1936, Louis Armstrong was elected honorary president of the club, a title he held until his death in 1971.

With the club's help, jazz took root in France. Although the club members appreciated American jazz groups, the club was always on the lookout for French talent in the field. They discovered guitarist Django Reinhardt and violinist Stéphane Grappelli, who, along with others, became known as the Hot Club Quintet.

Jazz during the Nazi occupation

When World War II was declared, most African-American jazz musicians left the France And the French bands were worried. But Hot Club survived by claiming their sound was “music French "Traditional", which was allowed to be broadcast.

They claimed that jazz was directly inspired by Debussy, an influential French composer of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and distributed pamphlets detailing this fabricated family tree. One music critic published a book explaining how jazz was inherently French and how it could become the new European music under the Nazi regime.

Aug Pension, president of the Hot Club, published a book addressing the Vichy regime's claim that jazz could not carry a patriotic message. In his book, he argued that jazz was simply misunderstood and sprinkled biblical passages and political quotes throughout to make it sound convincing.

Music experts have noted that the jazz musicians of that period were all French (as mentioned – the American musicians left at the beginning of the war) and they made “adjustments” to make jazz seem more French.

At the time, this music was called “swing” in France, so they started calling it “jazz,” which sounded less American. Also, the names of the songs were changed to French: “St. Louis Blues” became “Tristesse de St. Louis” and “I Got Rhythm” became “Agate Rhythm.”

Composers’ names were either omitted or changed. Louis Armstrong’s songs were credited to Jean Sablon during that period. When they were done, jazz seemed as French as baguettes and brie. Their efforts paid off when the Nazis banned subversive “American swing” but allowed traditional “French jazz.” Of course, it was the same music, just cunningly repackaged (let’s say).

Jazz and the Resistance

The members of the Hot Club not only defied the Nazis with music, many of them were active members of the resistance and even used jazz concerts and conferences as cover to pass information to England.

In 1943, the Nazis raided the Hot Club headquarters in Paris and arrested some of its officials. Delaunay, the Hot Club's secretary, was released after a month, but several of the others perished in Nazi concentration camps.

However, jazz survived and preserved French society during the occupation. And when the war ended, France remained faithful to the music that had by then truly become part of French culture.

But let's get back to jazz itself:

In the 30s and 50s, biguine, a style of jazz from the French Caribbean, was popular with dance bands. Lacking recognition at home, some biguine artists from Martinique moved to France proper, where they gained greater popularity in Paris, especially following the 1931 Colonial Exposition.

Early stars like Alexandre Stellio and Sam Castandet became popular in Paris and there is still a scene of artists from Martinique and other French islands today.

Here is a short video about this musical style (for French speakers):

Starting in the late 1940s, Le Caveau de la Huchette became an important venue for French and American jazz musicians.

Many American jazz artists lived in France, from Sidney Bechet to Archie Shepp. These Americans had an influence on French jazz, but at the same time French jazz also had its own sources of inspiration.

For example, Bal Musette had some influence on the French gypsy jazz form. Similarly, the violin, and to some extent the guitar, were more popular in French jazz than American jazz. Thus, Jean-Luc Ponty and Stéphane Grappelli are among the most highly regarded violinists in the history of jazz.

Jazz clubs in Paris

If you are looking forMy map Using the word jazz, 66 sites are displayed. These include concert halls, large and small clubs, but also cafes and restaurants where jazz concerts are held from time to time. Some are outrageously expensive, some are reasonably priced, and in some cases the show is part of the entertainment.

pay attention: The information is pre-Corona, so it's certainly possible that some places have closed.

Of course, I haven't visited all the places – and I won't. I usually only hang out at three clubs. However (literally), here are my experiences in the places I've visited.

The jazz clubs of Rue des Lombards

This street, located in the first district, has 3 jazz clubs in close proximity. I am a regular visitor to these clubs. In all three you can enjoy performances every night, often even two performances on the same night. This is a great variety that allows everyone to find their favorite.

The stationMetro The nearest is Chatelet, exit number 10: Place Sainte-Opportune (in such a large station – this is a super important piece of information!).

The three clubs are small, I estimate 50-60 people. Ticket prices range from 20-40 euros, depending on the artist performing, and they differ from each other both in the content they bring and the entertainment experience:

Duc des Lombards

This is the “northern” club among them. Its population is like that, the staff is geared towards them and even the artists are like that. The seats are arranged around the small stage, and there is also a magazine floor. Seating is free. The quality of the seats is low in my opinion. You can order anything from a light drink to a light meal there.

Address: 42 Rue des Lombards
Club website

Sunside Sunset

Triple institution: In front of it is an open and noisy cafe, and in the building itself there are 2 halls: one - Sunside - where various performances take place, and in the basement - Sunset - mostly electronic jazz and styles close to pop.

I have never visited the latter, for reasons of taste. The Sunside Hall is standard in its structure – a regular room with a stage at the end, but due to its size I prefer to sit at the end to avoid the noise from the sound system and the various instruments. Seating is free. Drinks can be ordered. Some music:

Address: 60 Rue des Lombards

Club website

Salty Kiss

Even in front of it is a noisy cafe, and on the second floor is a hall – actually a room – with a stage. It used to be a really fun place, but due to progress it underwent a renovation (inefficient – ​​neither technically nor economically) that made it less comfortable. Seating is free, and you can order drinks. Among other things, I love the Jam Session evenings there, which are sometimes joined by artists who have finished performing elsewhere. Some music:

Caveau de la Huchette

This is a famous club with a rich history – both in the field of jazz and in general. Because of this, let me dedicate a few lines to it, before we start talking about its music.

The building dates back to the 13th century, but its recorded history only dates back to the 17th century. The building at 5 rue de la Huchette was the meeting place of the Rose-Croix and the Templars, and in 1772 it was converted into a secret lodge of the Freemasons.

Access was via the streets of Parcheminerie, Hôtel-Dieu and Petit Pont. This hostel consisted of two lower rooms, combined cellars used as a meeting place. The charm of the place as a hostel for secret sects lay in two secret underground passages, one leading to the Chatelet, the other under the Abbey of Saint-Séverin.

In 1789 and throughout the revolutionary era, known as the Caveau de la Terror, the place housed the clubs of the Cordeliers and Montagnards. In the upper room, converted into a tavern, people drank, sang and discussed freedom.

The main figures of the Convention visited there: Danton, Marat, Saint-Just, Robespierre, and many verdicts were handed down there, followed by executions, either by means of a guillotine placed there or by being thrown into a deep well that still exists in the lower cellar.

You will find there in sequence: the courthouse, the prison, the execution chamber. The various rooms have undeniable historical authenticity and have been preserved in their original condition.

During World War I, American soldiers brought swing and bebop to Paris. After the war, as Paris celebrated its newfound freedom, jazz invaded the basements. Saint-Germain-des-PrésCaveau de la Huchette was the first club in Paris to play jazz, and the world's most famous jazz artists performed in its cellars.

Since its establishment as a jazz club, the venue has been home to famous American jazz artists such as Lionel Hampton, Count Basie, and Art Blakey, Memphis Slim, as well as leading French jazz musicians such as Claude Lotter and Claude Bolling. Sidney Bechet and Bill Coleman were American expatriates in France who were also associated with the club.

Since then, without any interruption, Le Caveau de la Huchette has maintained the tradition and every evening an orchestra performs for the enjoyment of jazz lovers. Among them are excellent Be-Bop dancers.

What will you find inside?

The club's extraordinary atmosphere is reminiscent of the great era (la grande époque) of the Cotton and Savoy Club.
Ancient weapons still adorn the walls: swords, spiked clubs, muskets, and a well-preserved chastity belt.

Caveau de la Huchette has inspired filmmakers and has provided the setting for many films: Les impostors by Marcel Carnet, Rouge Bezier by Vera Belmont, La première fois by Claude Berry and James Huth's latest film Un bonheur n' never arrives alone with Sophie Marceau and Gad Elmaleh. Finally, Damien Chazelle's multiple Oscar-winning film LA LA LAND uses the sign and set of the Caveau de la Huchette orchestra hall.

The club is located in the basement, where shows are mostly in the New Orleans / Swing / Be-Bop styles. There is even dancing… The club is open until the wee hours – a rather unusual phenomenon in Paris. The club is located in the 10th arrondissement, close to the Seine. In my opinion, this is a nice place for lovers of the genre. Prices range from 16 – XNUMX euros. Here is some music from the place:

Address: 5 Rue de la Huchette

Club website

Chez Papa Jazz Club

Actually a restaurant with jazz performances every evening, although it is better not to eat there (there are many better options in the area) but just to come to the concert for the price of a drink. Usually it is a pianist and another instrument – ​​clarinet, saxophone, etc. Sometimes vocals. The club is in the 6th arrondissement, nearby metro station: Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Some music:

Address: 3 Rue Saint-Benoît

Club website

New Morning

A concert hall in the 452th arrondissement (metro Château d'Eau), which even has a radio station. Concerts there are sometimes shown on Mezzo-TV. The hall can accommodate XNUMX people. My difficulty with this hall is the flexibility in terms of seating: sometimes there are chairs and small tables next to them, and sometimes only in part of the hall and the rest standing, and sometimes there is not a single chair, and it is all standing bar. Less to my taste and needs. Some music:

https://youtu.be/lhlqU5M19O0

Address: 7/9 Rue des Petites Écuries

Club website

More jazz clubs I've visited

The Olympia and Teklan halls are in the style of a cultural center, with hundreds of seats. Jazz concerts are sometimes held there. The prices for performances are high compared to clubs.

The strangest jazz performance I experienced in Paris was actually in a church: the Church of Saint-Eustache. I found (quickly, quickly) a nice concert there, in the afternoon; I arrived, I was sent to some room on a high floor – reminiscent of a classroom, and there was a solo piano concert. The concert was very nice, so thought the group of elderly ladies and their granddaughters.

And so on and so forth. It would be beneficial for the common good if readers added experiences they have gained in other halls.

Choosing concerts for the visit

Every time I visit Paris, I dedicate 2-3 evenings to jazz concerts. Since I normally visit Paris twice a year regularly, I have gained experience and developed a technique for choosing the program. For your use:

The best website to find concerts taking place during my visit is fnac spectaclesThere are other sites, but fnac includes the vast majority of shows available in Paris. I mark the period of my stay, and begin the task of choosing.

I look at the details of the shows on fnac, and choose the ones that appeal to me. I also take into account considerations of distance from where I live (who wants to travel long distances on public transportation at night?), as well as the characteristics of the concert: the number of musicians and instruments. In my opinion, a large number of musicians is not suitable for small halls, for example, which impairs my enjoyment (excessive noise).

Here comes the “tedious” stage of choosing between the different options. I go to YouTube, and am “forced” to listen to music clips from the various artists. As part of building the visit program – it’s an experience in itself, of listening to hours of jazz. Terrible work, but someone has to do it 😊.

Tickets can be purchased through fnac with a fee, or through the venue's website itself. In any case, it is recommended to book in advance, as I have been left out more than once when trying to buy on the spot.

I will end with a blessing from Balakatun, a gem from my last visit to Paris – pre-Corona.

Have fun.

A few words about the author

Dr. Zeev Ben Nahum. Zeev is a Francophile who decided to map the כל The interesting places in Paris. This is a huge project and can be found on the website The Paris Map.

Do you like classical music?

In my experience, a large portion of jazz lovers also love classical music. So if you are looking for classical concerts (for evenings when you won't be spending time in jazz clubs), you are welcome to visit the article Classical music in Paris.