Suddenly a man comes out of the Gare du Nord and starts walking – a trip through Paris in the 10th and 9th arrondissements

Although quite a few Francophiles have visited the Gare du Nord area in the 10th arrondissement (for example, when arriving in Paris from London via the Eurostar), most of them flee the area as quickly as possible. And for good reason, because the area around the station is really not very pleasant, due to the population of Muslim immigrants who like to concentrate there on their way to the northern suburbs of Paris, where they live.

The truth is that even in the 19th century, the area caused shock and disappointment among its visitors, as can be seen from the reaction of the British George Moore who arrived in Paris in 1873 and when he got off the train he shouted “Where are the Boulevards? Where is the Champs Elysées??” However, don’t let the proximity of the train station deter you. A very short walk away you will begin to discover some of the magical and unknown areas of Paris in both the 10th arrondissement and the adjacent 9th arrondissement.

So whether you've just arrived in Paris after a trip to the Château de Chantilly , which is a half-hour train ride from Gare du Nord, or you've arrived from London (mercifully spared), I invite you to embark on a journey with me that is full of authentic Parisian charm because, as Dr. Seuss said, when you go out, you arrive at wonderful places.

Tour map of the 10th and 9th arrondissements of Paris

Instead of a map: Under the title of each station is its address, and each address is a link. Click on it, and the place will immediately open in Google Maps.

Gare du Nord – because even a train station should be beautiful

18 rue de Dunkirk

We start by exiting the train station on Boulevard de Denain. Before we continue, let's turn around and look back at the magnificent facade built by the architect Hittorff and completed in 1865. Note the 22 statues on the facade, each of which symbolizes a different city that can be reached by trains leaving from this station (for example, London, St. Petersburg, but also Compiègne, which is relatively close to Paris).

Before we continue, if you happen to get hungry and fancy classic French food in a restaurant that looks like it came out of the Haute-Epoque, you are welcome to try Terminus Nord, which has been serving its customers since 1925.

Around the Church of Saint Vincent de Paul

place Franz Liszt

After you have finished admiring the Gare du Nord, walk on Boulevard de Denain until you reach Boulvard Magenta. Cross the road and then walk right on the boulevard and immediately turn left onto Rue de Belzunce. Suddenly, the atmosphere changes and through the smoky boulevards you arrive in an almost rural area with some lovely restaurants.

After you've finished admiring this cute street, turn left onto Fenelon Street and there, at number 9, you'll discover a building with an impressive facade made of ceramics that displays a series of peoples who contributed to the development of the art of ceramics. Go down the stairs and turn left, then left again, and the following view will open up before you:

This is the Church of Saint Vincent de Paul, built in the 19th century by our friend Iturf (it is said that Baron de Rothschild loved the design of this church so much, despite being Jewish, that he was the one who commissioned Iturf to design the North Train Station (Gare du Nord).

You are welcome to go up, visit the church and enjoy the magical garden along the way. Alternatively, you are welcome to simply sit in the Franz Liszt Square at the bottom and enjoy all this beauty. By the way, this anonymous church managed to star in the immortal film “Zazi in the Metro” by Louis Malle.

At the beginning of the film, a taxi picks up Zazie and her family, starts driving through Paris, and every few minutes arrives at this church while the taxi driver introduces it sometimes as the Madeleine Church , sometimes as the Palais des Invalides , etc. Unfortunately, I couldn't find this segment on YouTube, but if you haven't seen this surreal comedy yet, here's a short summary:

Montholon Square

square Montholon , and 14 rue d'Abbeville

After you've finished admiring the church and perhaps even sat in its small garden, head to rue d'Abeville. Art Nouveau lovers will be in for a surprise in the form of two wonderful houses (number 14 and number 16).

Turn left onto Faubourg Poissonnière, named after the fish that were transported along this street every day to Les Halles market until it moved to Rungis in the 70s. Continue along this street and enjoy the many houses built in the 18th century, when this district was considered a prestigious district thanks to the fresh air that came from being located, at the time, outside the city limits. Continue until you reach the intersection with Rue Lafayette and turn right. Continue along this street until you reach Place Montholon.

This is a magical and unknown garden that Parisians love very much. Beyond all the beauty you will be exposed to (especially in spring), the square and the garden have a fascinating history that Dr. Orna Lieberman has written about in the past.

Notre Dame de Lourdes Church and Saint Georges Square

18 bis rue de Châteaudun , and place Saint-Georges

Continue on Rue Lafayette and turn onto Rue Châteaudun until you reach the Notre Dame de Lorette church.

This church, built along with most of the surrounding houses during the 19th century, is certainly a lovely church, but what is more interesting from a historical perspective is that its name became synonymous with a certain type of “working girls,” which you can read about here . After you’ve finished admiring the church, continue down the street of the same name until you reach Saint Georges Square, after which the entire charming neighborhood around it is named.

The square was completed in 1826 and has several small attractions. For example, the fountain in front of you, which is named after Gavarni, a famous 19th-century cartoonist who lived here.

At number 27 you will find the house of Adolphe Thiers, the first president of the Third Republic. The original house, which also contained an impressive library, burned down during the Commune, but after returning to Paris with his troops, Thiers managed to rebuild his house, which still houses his large library, which also survived.

On the other side of the square stands the house of the famous courtesan Marquise de Paiva, where she lived before moving to the magnificent villa she built on the Champs-Elysées. And finally, if you continue a little further up the street, you will discover another charming little square called Place Gustave Toudouze with its Waltz Fountain. Without a doubt, an ideal place for a small picnic (food can be bought in the nearby food shops on rue des Martyres).

Museum of Romantic Life

16 rue Chaptal

Continue on Rue Notre Dame de Lorette until you reach the intersection. Turn right onto Rue Chaptal and continue to number 16. There you will discover the Museum of Romantic Life . This is a small, free and highly recommended museum dedicated entirely to the 19th century painter Ari Scheffer and the writer Georges Sand.

And finally, if you get hungry again, there is a classic and not bad French restaurant (although a bit expensive for my taste) called l'Anexe located right across the street. I had steak tartare and profiteroles there, which were not bad at all…

This is it my friend, this is where I leave you. From here you are welcome to continue walking around the neighborhood or go up to Montmartre, which is not far away. In any case, I really hope you enjoyed it.

Anyone who wants more of this district is invited to the walking tour of the 10th arrondissement, from Place de la République to Hôtel du Nord , which passes through the Church of Saint Laurent, the courtyard of the Saint-Louis Hospital, and the place where the Montpouccon gallows stood.