In 2020, a few months after the outbreak of the Corona pandemic, I decided to launch a new project called The secrets of Paris, in which a series of selected Francophiles told us about charming places in the City of Lights that few tourists know about. Fortunately, the article was a great success, so now, in honor of the end of the Corona pandemic and the return of tourists to Paris (thump, thump, thump).
This time I turned to the same Francophiles from the previous article and asked them to tell me what their favorite place in Paris is, or alternatively, what place in Paris they would like to visit on the first day of their upcoming trip. Since this is a long article, I divided it into several chapters (parks, streets and monuments, and culinary delights), and I hope that these recommendations will inspire you for your next trip.
The parks to which Francophiles will want to return
Reflections after a year and a half without Paris and two Parisian charms for comfort – Ruth Shimoni
I never imagined that I would be prevented from coming and wandering for such a long time in the city I loved. That Paris, “the homeland of my soul,” as I say. Victor Hugo, which has served me for so many years as a reservoir of energy, a dynamo – charging me with bursts of beauty, interest, optimism, joy of life and giving me spiritual strength, a kind of exfoliation for the soul and preparation for the body and spirit.
I always knew that whatever was happening wasn't terrible and would be good – because on the pink horizon, proactively and constantly, there was a Paris.
Only now, after 18 months without Paris – when I made a reservation for my next visit to the city – did the gloom and cloudiness of my spirit dissipate a little and I immediately saw myself in my imagination wandering again…
And when I was asked, "Where will you go first, when you arrive in Paris again after such a long separation?"
I knew the answer immediately…
I will walk like the Parisian wanderer, the one who is madly in love with the city, the one who walks through it even in his dreams,
The one who is never satisfied with beauty...
That wanderer who, returning again and again to the object of his love (Paris) – would always prefer to capture the soul of his city –
Not necessarily among the enormous and well-known monuments – but among its hidden gems:
The intimate gardens, the tiny squares, the hidden alleys, the unique house facades –
Those that embody the city's bewitching, captivating, seductive, and unique charm.
Like the aforementioned Parisian wanderer – I will surely arrive, completely amazed, at two small gardens,
Picturesque and minimalist in the Saint-Germain district…
close toמלון – Because I can’t hold back and keep you away – from too much enthusiasm.
Because there, at the beginning of Sen Street, behind and to the side of the dome of the impressive academy building, in the tiny gardens –
I will immediately find the embodiment of the essence of intimate, restrained, heart-pounding, soul-stirring magic –
Of the city, in my opinion…
I will definitely sit on one of the benches – maybe under the cherry tree that won’t bloom in October…
I will bless the cold and the gray,
I will listen eagerly to the soft, melodious sound of French spoken around me,
I will return a smile to passersby who always greet me with a cheerful face, with a melodious and optimistic "Bonjour,"
I will ecstatically recite the “I can’t believe I’m in Paris” and the “I envy myself,”
And…you won't be happier than me.
The square Gabriel Pierné
Square Gabriel Pierné is visible in the photos in this article, in all its glory. It is swallowed up between the beginnings of Rue Mazarine and Rue de Seine, and is named after the composer and musician Gabriel Pierné (1863-1937).
The garden was planted in 1938, covering an area of 644 square meters, and boasts a number of magical elements:
Stylish fountain
It was designed by Alexandre Fragonard in 1830 and supplied water to the Carmelite monastery market, which was located near Place Maubert in the heart of the Latin Quarter.
After the demolition of the monastery market in 1930, the fountain was moved to Square Pyrenees.
The fountain includes: a circular basin, 2 taps fed by the Seine, and a double-sided head with rich sculptural decoration of fruits, cornucopias, and wreaths of flowers –
Simulates Hermes, and represents abundance, prosperity, and commerce.
Carolina
This is a magical bronze statue of a girl, full of movement and youthful spirit. It was designed by the Italian sculptor who worked extensively in Paris – Marcello Tomasi 1928-2008 (perhaps the girl's father).
The charming vegetation
Here you will find rhododendrons, magnolias, two cherry trees that bloom in spring, and the catalpa tree, with its magnificent foliage and blossoms (whose top reached a height of 2011 meters in 15), adorns the garden, beautifies it, and adds to it - when it blooms - color, variety, and freshness.
Book-shaped benches
Many benches are scattered throughout the garden, but those that resemble an open book immediately stand out. These echo and immortalize the spiritual life of Saint-Germain district – that cosmopolitan avant-garde district of lights that was characterized by an atmosphere of scholarship, creativity and was famous for its bookstores, publishing houses, jazz clubs and cafes – which served the students, intellectuals and bohemians who crowded there for generations. Also, the shape of the book corresponds so beautifully with the nearby Bibliothèque Mazarine, which is part of the academy complex and is the oldest public library in France.
The many houses bordering Pierna Square
These houses form a kind of perimeter wall, frame and decor, adding to the beauty of the garden. They stand out with their variety of styles, colorful coverings and original facades, some of which are covered in varying vegetation.
Not to mention the magnificent dome of the academy building, which adds a touch of progress, culture, splendor, and beauty to the square.
Square Honoré Champion
And if the Square Gabriel Pierna described above is not enough, immediately next to it and in front of it, at 1 Boulevard de Seine – a tiny, enclosed garden – Square Honoré-Champion.
The garden was planted in 1947, and pays tribute to Honoré Champollion (1846-1913), a bookworm and publisher who founded a special library and specialized in history, linguistics, and more. The highlight of the garden is a magnificent stone statue of Voltaire, commissioned after World War II by the state from sculptor Ernest Drivier (1878-1951) and placed in the garden in 1962.
Another head of Montesquieu, protruding through the manicured and blooming vegetation – the work of Felix Lecomte (1737-1817). Voltaire’s statue is frequently renovated due to anti-racist movements that are attacking it
And the claim that Voltaire's fortune stemmed in part from the slave trade and exploitation of the French colonies...
This is a miniature, magical, typically Parisian garden, which serves as a connecting point between several buildings – a colorful piece of nature and interest.
And as Joel Tamanlis, journalist and Francophile, wrote in his new and fascinating book: “Se La Vie”
(Meydan Publishing 2021):
“Paris – a city of elation.”
“Paris is Paris is Paris. Period”
A few words about Ruth Shimoni
Ruth Shimoni She is a Francophile addicted to Paris, an expert on French culture, a holder of an honorary medal from the French government, and the best lecturer in Israel on French culture.
Catalpa Tree in the Luxembourg Gardens – Joel Tamanlis
As soon as it is possible to land in Paris again, my mental need and instinct will surely make me want to “swallow” Paris all at once. But how do you swallow a city of this size in a few days? I think I will behave like a little child who arrives at a huge toy store for the first time and quickly runs between the departments to see more and more.
There are a few places I can't miss under any circumstances. Lake Daumesnil, the largest lake inVincennes Forest, is one of my favorite places in Paris. I never stop dreaming about visiting the Ile De Reuilly and the Ile De Bercy.
Nothing will stop me, after an absence of almost two years, from wandering at length through the alleys of Montmartre. This is a must-see district. A village within a city. The most romantic district in Paris. This hill is off-limits to ensure that no one takes away the magical charm of the winding, steep, narrow streets with such a special atmosphere.
Another important place for me is the Albert Kahn Gardens – gardens of impressive beauty that include a range of gardens: Japanese, English, French, a rock garden, a rose garden, and more. There is no doubt that this is a unique place in the Parisian landscape, or if you like: a small paradise that is worth a visit.
That long without art is impossible. That's why I'll be standing in line at the entrance toMusée d'Orsay Even if it takes an hour and a half to get in. The Musée d'Orsay is an impressive museum by any measure. Its highlight is the world's largest collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist art.
And now to the place I love and miss the most in Paris – Luxembourg Gardens. Everything has been said and written about these magnificent royal gardens, located in the heart of the city. I will undoubtedly spend many hours there as soon as I arrive in the city. But the first thing I will go and check is what has become of an old and rare tree located in the northwest corner of the gardens near the Luxembourg Museum.
I have immortalized this tree with my camera hundreds of times. I have a deep emotional connection to it. It is a Catalpa tree – Catalpa bignoni (Catalpa vulgaris), its exact age is unknown but it is estimated to be about 100 years old. Over 50 years ago it fell during a strong storm, but was not completely uprooted and continued to live and develop the tree trunk in its very special shape, as can be seen in the photo.
This fascinating and unique tree is at the end of its life. Every year, the gardeners of the Luxembourg Gardens ask themselves whether this rare tree will have the strength to put out a few more leaves. In consultation with the gardens' management, it was announced that they intend to preserve it as a plant sculpture, as long as public safety allows.
I hope this wonderful tree will remain in place for many years to come. If you have the chance to visit the Luxembourg Gardens, you are welcome to visit it. Look for a huge majestic tree with an almost horizontal trunk, its roots exposed and its solitary branches exerting a special magic on the surroundings and magnetizing visitors.
A big thank you to Dr. Orna Lieberman, who, through quick and efficient correspondence with the gardens management, was able to obtain exclusive information for me about this special tree.
A few words about Yoel Tamanlis
Yoel is a Francophile who currently lives in Modi'in. In addition to being a journalist, he is also a photographer, and if you are interested in enjoying his beautiful photographs of Paris, you are welcome to take a look at the page Paris via ZoomIf you want to read the articles he published on the siteGo to this link.
Streets and monuments that Francophiles miss
Dagger Street lengthens like a fragrant baguette flute – Dr. Orna Lieberman
Rue Dagger, near Place de la Dépôt-Rochereau, stretches for 630 meters like a fragrant, crackling baguette flute, with one end facing the Luxembourg Gardens and the Latin Quarter and the other leading towards Montparnasse. Artistic and commercial, popular and bourgeois, rural and urban, Rue Dagger reflects the picturesque and authentic charm of the14th DistrictOn weekdays, a pedestrian street from the beginning to Rue Boulard. On Sundays and holidays, a pedestrian street throughout its length, from 10 a.m. to XNUMX p.m.
Before I give you my impressions, you are invited to watch this short video that will introduce you to the street and some of its prominent figures:
Art and culture
The very name of the street puts the enlightened wanderer in the right mood: Daguerre Street, named after Louis Daguerre, one of the fathers of photography, about whom you can read inDetailed Wikipedia entry In Hebrew.
Dagger Street opens onto courtyards and cobblestone alleys, which are unfortunately closed to the general public to protect the privacy of the residents and employees. Photo labs and artistic printing houses from the past and present, as well as other treasures and treasures, hide behind the barred gates. It is worth coming on open days or during exhibitions when there are opportunities to spot them.
Number 63 opens towards the “Artisan City” (La Cité artisanale), where artists and craftsmen have been working on their craft, since the 19th century until today, in their glazed workshops: sculptors, painters, photographers, restorers of works of art, designers, architects, graphic artists, leather workers, carpenters, printers, and a little less romantic but necessary, denture technicians…
You can enter the place during exhibition times, follow theאתר.
Until then, it is Nice blogger pictures who managed to get in.
Number 86, the Pink House, opens onto the poetic majesty of the beloved Agnes Varda, who designed her private paradise, a living space (number 86) and a work space (number 83). She lived there from 1951 until her death at the age of ninety in 2019.
Residents of the street remember her endearing personality and her 1975 documentary about “the section of Dagger Street, from number 70 to 90, a humble and local neighborhood album about the silent majority, merchants and tenants,” she said. The pride of the street that brings pilgrims to it, from inside and outside.
The cheerful group of artists of Dagger Street
Rue Daguerre gave refuge to many artists, French and foreign, who came to the district to join their vibrant colleagues in Montparnasse. Most of them later became very successful and moved to more spacious places but in the poor days before publicity they enjoyed a reasonable welcome from the locals.
The sculptor and painter Aristide Mayol discovered his fellow Catalan Richard Guino, 30 years his junior, admired his talent and invited him to come to Paris. In 1910, Richard Guino left Spain and settled at 7 Rue Daguerre. In this studio, Guino completed many masterpieces, for example, “Venus Victorious”, part of a joint series with Auguste Renoir, from 1914.
For 15 years, Richard Guinault was part of the “cheerful group of artists on Rue Daguerre.” It was not until 1925, when he started a family, that Guinault left the studio on Rue Daguerre for a more spacious place in Antony. Richard Guinault had six children. His son Michel continued the tradition of sculpture and design and also worked in the same studio as his father.
At number 22 is found Small hotel From the late 19th century, which served as a hostel for those young people at the beginning of their careers who flocked to Paris to join the Montparnasse artists.
The Japanese painter Toshio Bando, the scion of a well-to-do family but orphaned from the age of seven, benefited from the patronage of the hotel owner, Madame Monjou, in 1925. She supported him and was also his model.
The sculptor Alexander Calder needs no introduction. In the winter of 1926, he also lived in this hotel on Dagger Street, on the “first floor, in a room of twenty square meters, with a glass door that looked out onto a back yard.” The hotel with its ornate brick facade was, indeed, a welcome springboard…
And speaking of real celebrities, Emile Zola The 22-year-old, an orphan, lived for a year with his mother at number 66 of the street, a three-room apartment on the first floor with a view of the Montparnasse CemeteryFrom the end of 1862 until July 1863, the two stayed there. Young Emile, in a precarious financial and mental state, went to work at the “Eschette” bookstore, starting as a packer and ending as advertising manager. Thanks to the founder of the publishing house and the store, Louis Eschette, who agreed to employ him, Emile got a foothold in the system.
Food, drink, fashion and more
Daguerre Marée
In the large fish shop on the left with my back to the Denfer-Rochereau metro I buy a filet. They also have a restaurant where you can taste fish or seafood.
9 Rue Daguerre 9 · 01 43 22 13 52
Daguerre Volaille Brossard
Alternatively, in two shops on the right, your choice of chicken with potatoes (or other dishes). No need to cook, just heat up, ready-made dishes are a kind of compromise between cooking and a restaurant for me.
Rue Daguerre 8 · 01 43 22 51 02
Julien Davin
A few more steps, if you want to eat Italian, a great fresh noodle shop.
Rue Daguerre 10bis · 01 43 27 75 82
La Maison de la pâte – Épicerie fine
A few more steps, if you want to eat Italian, a great fresh noodle shop.
Rue Daguerre 14 · 01 43 22 34 10
Le Comptoir De Milana by Dossemont
A little further ahead, before the crosswalk, is a fine cake shop, if I missed the Greek one that also provides dessert. It has a rather long name, which translates to: “Milana by Dosmon’s Counter.” Francis Dosmon is the store manager. In the afternoons there is a fairly long line, but less daunting than the one in front of the catacombs…
rue Daguerre 24 · 01 47 34 99 72
Dagger Street also offers an abundance of fruits and vegetables, wine and flowers, restaurants of all kinds, cafes, and what not. And in addition to food, the street also offers jewelry, watches, clothing, folk or more designer fashion, a feast for the eyes.
In conclusion
I love Rue Daguerre because it is lively, like a non-stop market, with food and fashion shops galore. Because artists from all over the world lived there and were welcomed with open arms, and their bold and determined spirit still floats between the houses and beckons to me. Even today, it has diverse cultural and artistic activity and remains a symbol of openness, tolerance, understanding and friendship. Because it reflects old Paris and, despite being a little gentrified, preserves a captivating folk spirit. Because it is neither snobbish nor too touristy. A lively gem in the heart of my very favorite 14th arrondissement, where (Metro Saint-Jacques) I prefer to stay during my visits to Paris.
reaching:
Metro: Dnepr-Rochereau
Denfert-Rochereau
Lines: 4, 6,
RER B
Bus lines: 38, 59, 64, 68, 88, 216,
Orlybus
A few words about Orna Lieberman
Orna Lieberman, PhD in Literature French, is a scholar of the Bible, literature, and culture, living in France. You are invited to visit her blog, The Language of the Bible – New Light on an Ancient Language, which is primarily dedicated to interpreting the Bible through its language.
Dr. Orna Lieberman researched and found that every word in Hebrew also expresses its opposite: every word has an opposite twin. Evil is also evil, wicked is also wicked, and singing is also singing. Details and explanations about the phenomenon of language duality and its meanings on the blog, which also includes quite a few entries on culture. France and other cultures. This is how the blog unites Orna's two great loves, Hebrew and French.
French culture occupies a prominent place in her life, and her many and varied articles on the website “Francophiles Anonymous” illustrate the range of topics in which she is interested and which she researches.
Hotel de Soubise – Ronen Sass
Anyone who knows me (and my family) knows that my connection with France is through its palaces and their magnificent salons. France may not be the cradle of Western architecture and design, but it is certainly responsible for bringing them to the sublime levels they have reached over the years. Therefore, every time I set foot in France, I embark on a journey of conquest, after which no museum or palace remains standing.
The first place I visit when I'm in Paris is theHotel de SoubiseBecause if we try to focus my love on one specific style, it would be the Rococo style, known in France as the Louis XV style or the Rococo style, and there is no better place to see this style in all its spirit and (eccentric) splendor than in this masterpiece by the architect Germaine Beaupre.
This impressive Hotel Particular is at the heart of Marais District And occupies a considerable area of it as it includes a complex of several buildings including the Hôtel de Rouen and they were used until recently as the French National Archives. The director of the archives vacated the place and it is now used as the Archives Museum and its magnificent galleries are open to visitors.
The palace, originally built in 1371 for Olivier de Clisson as a fortress, went through many transformations until, in 1700, it came into the hands of the Rouen-Saubiz family, who hired the services of architect Pierre-Alexis Delmar to build the impressive hotel we see today.
The impressive interior decoration was designed between 1732 and 1735 by Germaine Beaupre, two of the salons he designed are considered the splendor of the Rococo style; the Prince's Salon on the ground floor and the crowning glory of the Princess's Salon on the second floor directly above it, both are oval in shape. Although the hotel has lost some of its decoration over the years, there are still a number of impressive rooms that have appeared in many films.
And if that's not enough, the nearby Hôtel de Rouen is currently undergoing renovations, and in addition to the impressive rooms on the second floor, its ground floor is being decorated with decorations from a building belonging to the Orléans family that was dismantled and stored for nearly a century after the building was demolished. The ground floor of the Hôtel de Rouen was found to be suitable in terms of style and size to accommodate these rooms, and I hope we can visit them soon.
If you know French, I recommend you watch the above video that tells the story of these two palaces:
You can read more about Hôtel de Sauviz in the article Hôtel de Sauvage – When Lovers Began to Fly.
A few words about Ronen Sass
Ronen is a graphic designer living in Tel Aviv. Over the years, Ronen developed a strong passion for 18th century French interior design and eventuallyHe designed his apartment in the Louis XV style.Ronen offers his services as an interior designer to those interested in transforming their home into a sort of 18th-century Hotel Particulier.
Place de Clichy (Into the Night) – Assaf Kintzer
It looks a little rough around the edges, but Place de Clichy is the first place I would hope to land when I arrive in post-COVID-19 Paris. Clichy may not be the natural choice for a tourist, but it is a very natural choice for a wanderer – the alternating fine and coarse stitching of four districts – the eighth, theninth, theseventeen AndEighteen – On the one hand, the quasi-dubious Pigalle, of the lewd sex shops, neon signs, garters and whips in the shop windows on Boulevard Rochechouart – and on the other hand, the ascent to Montmartre Hill, toCemetery The north up the boulevard, through the sad Franfri branch built on the ruins of “Charlotte the Oyster King,” or west, toMonceau Park, which is perhaps the most beautiful in all of Paris, and to the Plan Monceau neighborhood.
So no, this is not a peaceful, hermetic square like Vosges The picturesque or Fürstenberg The poetic, and there is not a single medicinal tree in it, but it is one of the most beautiful squares in Paris at night. Clichy is perhaps Paris Next to the tourist Paris, and in my favorite month in the city – November, you won't see the crowds of tourists, and if you have plenty of free time and legs, you can experience the daily life of the Parisian neighborhood, for example, by walking as leisurely and slowly as possible towards Rue de Rome, through the esoteric literature bookstore Librerie de l'Epi in Puteaux, or along Rue d'Amsterdam, and walk alongside the department stores and tobacconists, the Opera Garnier and Gare Saint-Lazare.
Thus, on days when rain washes away the beautiful Parisian gray, one can get off the metro and go to the eight-meter-high bronze statue of the Marshal of the Empire, the Duc de Moncy, who erected a barrier in the place where he now overlooks cars, trucks, and careless motorcyclists, designed to stop the hundreds of thousands of Russian soldiers in the Battle of Paris; go to the Café Wöffler, which hosted Modigliani, Apollinaire, Mallarmé, and Verlaine, as well as Truffaut, Céline, Proverb, and Henry Miller, who wrote “Quiet Days in Clichy” inspired by life in the district.
Then, into the night, along Batignolles and the metro, the big pharmacy and billiards on Rue d'Amsterdam, restaurants with tablecloths and early morning fog – some to the escorts' parlors in Pigalle and some to the cemetery in Montmartre. Or slip away into the streets branching off the boulevard to cheap hotels, darkened as befits places where sex life thrives.
At these hours of the night, darkness gathers and gathers in alleys, street corners and shop entrances, and with it the survivors of the night – the partygoers and the drinkers, the homeless and the crazy, and those who simply have trouble falling asleep. Once the bars close, the splashing glow of streetlights and the flickering light from the signs of a two-star hotel offer comfort.
Paris is a city that you can't stop imagining, especially if you wander aimlessly and without intention. It's easy to feel disoriented in the city late at night, especially if you've found yourself wandering for long, sustained distances, when you're dreamy or pensive, when everything takes on a different shape and volume. And towards morning, along the road, with the characteristic movements of experienced dancers, people filter reality from the bins, and every now and then you can see the silhouettes of lonely people, perhaps homeless, momentarily threatened by your presence, like you.
A few words about Assaf Kintzer
Assaf Kintzer, 42, lives in Tel Aviv and dreams of Paris, is a fan of Maupassant. For the past 9 years, he has worked for a human rights organization. He practices Buddhism and thinks of wandering as a means of spiritual transformation.
My three favorite places in Paris – Hadar Gabbay
“Why Paris?” ask all the people who don’t understand us, the Francophiles…
“Why did you move?” To live in Paris?” Well, because Paris is one and only, every weather suits it and brings out a different and unique charm.
And there are some places where magic always works, and that's why I'm sharing them with you, so that on your next visit you can enjoy these wonders at least as much as I did. This time, I went with two clichés that prove there's a reason they're so famous, and one place that's perhaps a little less well-known but that chanson lovers will enjoy.
Cafe de Flore
I know what you might think, that this is an overly expensive and overly touristy cafe, whose beauty has faded over the years and today it is just a souvenir of the past and nothing more…
So I'll tell you something - the legendary Café de Flor, the same one where they used to sit Albert Camus, Simone de Beauvoir and other bohemians, still maintains a unique character, meticulous service, legendary hot chocolate
The finest French and its local French inhabitants. It is where the Parisian cafe culture began, and yes, it is the first cafe in Paris.
I enjoy this place even though the prices are above average, and I especially enjoy the Parisian atmosphere that has always been there. Drink chocolate there and with it croissant And you will not be disappointed.
ABBESSES SQUARE
Montmartre It is my favorite neighborhood in Paris, and the heart of Montmartre – my favorite square. Place des Essès, which is centered by a metro station of the same name and decorated in a beautiful style, has appeared in quite a few films over the years and has actually become famous thanks to its vibrant life.
It all starts with its magical aesthetic, taken from an old movie – the unique lanterns of Montmartre, the colorful carousel, the blooming green garden nearby and of course the metro station and benches. Take a moment to stand in the square and look around, you will discover cafes, a special orange church, a busy bookstore, street vendors and even a Parisian fountain.
The square may be touristy, but it belongs entirely to the locals. On Sundays you'll see street musicians who sweep everyone around to their rhythm, and at night you'll see groups of young people sitting in the square. Place des Abbess is a legend whose name precedes it, it's seen it all - lovers and drunken swinging couples, street artists in action, young painters and what not.
From the square you can stroll throughout Montmartre and enjoy its special atmosphere.
Serge Ginzburg's house – 5 bis rue de Verneuil
The singer, chansonnier, provocateur and all the while the sensitive Jewish boy, Serge Ginzburg, lived in this house for about twenty years, here he created songs that shook all of France and left legends behind. After his death in 1991, the wall of Ginzburg's house began to be filled with various and strange graffiti works, all of which had one thing in common – gratitude and preservation of Serge's work.
To this day, every time I pass by the wall of this house, I am amazed by the amount of colors and the diverse works on it, you can see quotes from poems, graffiti sprays, special stickers of artwork and 30D. It may be just a wall, but it is a place of pilgrimage for Serge's fans and this year, which marked the XNUMXth anniversary of his death, there was even a small event on the street, where I also spoke a little French for those who are interested (:
This is a special and different gem in the Parisian landscape, which highlights the artist and preserves his artistic character and legacy. Recommended for enthusiasts!
The places I will travel to immediately after the Corona pandemic – Zeev Ben Nachum
When I was asked what my favorite places in Paris were, standard places came to mind – like the Luxembourg Gardens, the Marais, etc. Like the rest of us.
When I examined the depths of my soul – I found that the first tour I have done in years is my favorite. When I visit Paris, I always live in the same area (rue Saint André-des-Arts, near Saint Michel), usually in the same apartments for years. That is why the opening tour also focuses there.
Whereas I Renting an apartmentThe practical purpose of the tour is to stock up on groceries for the days of my stay. Therefore, one end of it is always in the apartment, and the other end is in my favorite store (of all) – La grande épicerie of the Bon Marché department store. It is too short to describe this wonderful store, which includes all kinds of food from around the world, an amazing delicatessen, a wine floor and even a bistro floor. But the store is not the essence of the tour.
Since it is a short distance – about 1.5 km or two metro stops, I am taking advantage of this practical tour for three additional purposes:
- The first – visiting my favorite areas and checking that everything is where I left it last time: Cour du Commerce-St-André, Rue Bussy, Place Fürstenberg, my favorite street sculptures – the Embacle Fountain, and the César Centaur. A short rest in the Square Roger-Stéphane garden before storming the store is always essential.
- The second – visiting places I haven't been to yet. Despite my many visits – there are always more. As of today, I have marked only 898 of them on the map throughout the city.
- Third – updating my map regarding suspicious/closed sites. This goal will be especially critical after the coronavirus, unfortunately.
- This is how the tour grows from a 20-minute walk to the grocery store – to a tour lasting several hours, a true tourist attraction.
For the next tour soon these days – a few sample points:
- Pierre Armat's cafe near the Odeon (I haven't had enough yet).
- The School of Journalism on Sderet Saint-Germain.
- Brasserie Vagenende – sneak peek and photograph of the Art Nouveau decor.
- Chapon et la Chocolaterie with its chocolate mousse bar.
- Pass by the former brothel of Saint-Sulpice.
- Finding the shoe scraper at the entrance to the Saint-Sulpice church that I never paid attention to.
- Locating the plaque in memory of George Pera.
- Buying a chocolate cake at Michalak's – which amazed me last time; photographing the relief of the angel looking for the afternoon on the street of that name.
- more and more.
This is Paris. There is no need for huge monuments (although there are some), spectacular gardens (which are abundant), and so on. My love – and I suppose everyone’s – is precisely for these little things that turn a place like Bat Yam (think about it) into the most visited city in the world.
A few words about Dr. Zeev Ben Nachum
Zeev is a Francophile who decided to map the כל The interesting places in Paris. This is a huge project and can be found on the website The Paris Map.
Saint Jacques Tower – Amit Rofa
Among the many necessary and especially less necessary shops of Rivoli Street, stands out in stylistic solitude Saint-Jacques TowerLonely, surrounded by a noisy garden full of beggars who only add to the medieval atmosphere that the tower exudes.
It is actually the bell tower of a church that stood there and was destroyed during the French Revolution. The church was part of the pilgrim route to Santiago de Compostela in Spain, and indeed, if you look up at the top of the tower, you can see Saint Jacques, Yago, or in Hebrew Jacob, looking down on the city.
When I came to live in Paris sometime in the late 1990s, I was struck by the beauty of the tower. Even before I knew its history, it had the meaning of a place that stood firm while everything around it was constantly changing. Construction, demolition, shops and lots of people around it, and none of that affected it. Only the soot from the cars made it incredibly black.
For over a decade I waited for them to renovate, hoping that after the renovation they would finally let me go up, up to look out over the city. It took almost another decade until one day a friend called and shouted into the phone: Open the tower, and I ordered two tickets for us. It wasn't easy. Claustrophobic, actually. At the entrance I said hello to the statue of Pascal, thanks to whom the tower was saved during the revolution. Urban legend says that he conducted experiments on gravity there.
I climbed 62 meters of narrow, crooked stairs, trying not to fall on the woman behind me, in the end I fell, but actually forward. There are surprises in life. And I reached the top, to the only 360-degree observation point in central Paris. Below spread out the planned streets of Haussmann, the city hall, Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, the Pompidou Center and here and there the Seine River juts out.
Despite its resounding success, the tower was quickly closed to climbing for safety reasons. Maybe during the Corona year they renovated it and it's possible to climb it again? I couldn't find an answer.
A few words about a fellow physician
Amit is a doctor, a Francophile who moved to Paris due to his love for the City of Lights. His great love for Paris and his strong desire to share it made Amit one of theThe best tour guides in the cityYou can book a guided tour through the website. Go Froggy.
Longing for the culinary delights of Paris
A culinary journey in honor of the return to Paris – Yehudit Marmelstein
Just a few days ago, Joel and Zvi mentioned one of the beautiful streets that descends from Montmartre towards the main district:
Rue Tholozé – straight from the windmill to the last bend of rue Lepic, you will come to the Blanche metro station.
And why do I love this street so much?
Because of my gluttony.
Let's start the descent with me.
Thank me at the end.
The view is, of course, stunning…it's hard to take your eyes off it.
In winter, be careful, the rough paving stones are slippery underfoot...but your eyes are fixed on the golden dome far away, in front.
The Choupettes of ChouChou
We reached the first corner: rue Durantin – turn left, 20 steps and arrive at a quaint shop that sells dreams:
Les Choupettes de ChouChou – A puffy girl covered in clouds…
For me, there is no puff pastry in all of Paris that compares to this thing - literally: none!
I died and went to heaven – it's right here.
Studio 28
Onward. We retrace our steps and continue downhill. With a paper bag of puffs in hand, of course. At number 10 we arrive at Studio 28, a tiny movie theater with the scent of yesteryear – established in 1928, hence its name. We go inside and voila – we are in Hollywood, but with a French scent… Jean-Paul Belmondo , Catherine Deneuve and Bourville.
They and others are covered in velvet in the color Bordeaux (However, velvet is not just for the common people, and yet we should be grateful to Charles Garnier, the one from the opera who thought of a royal burgundy design for the halls).
Boulangerie Alexine
A short break for a reasonable coffee (good coffee in Paris terms, here we will be modest in our demands...), and back to the street.
We will continue descending…we have reached the corner of the famous Lepic Street, its final twist.
We turn right, a few steps and we are in front of the storefront of a small, neighborhood boulangerie:
Boulangerie Alexine – where I always buy the same sandwich on their excellent baguette – the one with bright orange Mimolet cheese…
One bite, maybe two, the sandwich goes back into the bag (don't worry, we won't stay hungry).
La Rughetta
A short climb up Lepic Street, we pass the sign that says 'Vincent van Gogh lived here with his brother Theo' and cross the road to a small, excellent Italian restaurant - La Rughetta.
Excessively expensive Chianti, excellent pasta, a kind family that runs the place, and all this goodness in the middle of a Parisian street in front of a sign commemorating the most famous Dutchman – you ask – who needs more than that?
And in conclusion
Don't forget – the ham sandwich is still waiting…and the puffs too. And there's only one thing left to say – how lucky the street is downhill.
A few words about Judith Marmelstein
Yehudit Marmelstein, a tour guide in Paris. Loves this city. 'Burned' on it. Even on the yogurt from the supermarket, the simple baguette and just a 'simple' glass of wine in a neighborhood cafe.
I love to guide her, to see the curious and astonished looks of the tour guides, to sip her sidewalks with travelers.
I also love math, meticulous Hebrew, and U2.
I can't stand selfies and xenophobia, and I hope I'm not giving eclecticism a bad name...
For more information, please visit my website. Paris in Hebrew.
Café Carette – Ran Vardi
The last time I got to breathe the northern Parisian air was somewhere inChristmas 2019, three months later, we were all sentenced to a forced Francophile fast. It was my third visit to the city this year, and just before the launch of my innovative culinary tourism venture in the city, a venture that has been put on hold for the time being due to the global situation.
Culinary is my life, French cuisine is the center of my life, and Paris is an inseparable part of my being. When I am in the city to conduct professional culinary tours there, I allow myself to move my residence to the outskirts. However, when we are in the city as a couple, we always embrace with love Celine's charming apartment on Rue Saint-Gilles which is inFourth District, as a rainbow indicates its arrival Place-de-Vosges.
We start our morning every day, day after day, at Café Carette, which is on the northern side of the oldest square in the city, and about a two-minute walk from our house. This café, between the old columns overlooking the garden in the center of Vosges Square, is a part of us. The staff knows us by name. When Jeannette is on the morning shift, she brings us what we want without asking. The atmosphere, location, proximity, and offerings, with an emphasis on the morning wine and spirits, are among the finest.
Café Carette is an institution founded in 1927 by Jean Carette and his wife Madeleine. Art Deco design dominates their three cafés across Paris, under the responsibility of designer Hubert de Givenchy (cousin of..).
The place is a recommended location to enjoy the finest patisserie, excellent raw materials and professional craftsmanship with an emphasis on fine styling. Their morning pastries and wine-vase are among the finest in the city. My warm recommendation is for the huge Palmier pastry, rich in caramelized butter, to the best of my judgment the best in Paris, at least in relation to all those I have had the pleasure of tasting. The full breakfast offered there will also not disappoint.
The chef patissier of the place is Frédéric Tessier, originally from Saint-Malo, worked as chef patissier of the Michelin-starred restaurant Le Jules Vernes, and of the three-Michelin-starred restaurant TAILLEVENT, and has been working as chef patissier of Café Careete for about 19 years. The man knows his job perfectly and his meticulousness is evident in the products. I will admit that I have never tried the lunch menu at the place, the place serves as a fine café for me, and good cafés excel in coffee and what accompanies it, not in lunches.
So when Zvi asked me where I would focus my longing? If I had to choose one place? Café Carette, Place des Vosges. As a culinary enthusiast, it is clear that there are more unique and much more culinaryly significant spots in Paris, but the longing goes first and foremost to where your heart is, to a place that is a second home for you, to a place where I would now like to sit.
A few words about Ran Vardi
Ran Vardi, blogger, researcher and French culinary instructor, group manager French cuisine On Facebook.
Chez Janou's chocolate mousse – Zvi Hazanov
I haven't been to Paris since October 2019 and the longing is only getting stronger. I love Paris with all my senses and when I go back there, the first thing I will do is make love to it with my senses of sight, hearing, smell, touch and taste!
According to the plan, I will arrive at night straight to a comfortable bed. In a Parisian hotel Cute (I haven't decided where I'll be staying this time, so the location is open to discussion). Early in the morning I plan to leave the hotel and immediately see some Haussmannian street or magical Parisian garden, while the coolness of the Parisian morning gently pats my face.
True, Paris is full of quite a few Monuments Beautiful and impressive, but I'll leave all that for later. First of all, give me the "simple" Paris, of the "regular" residential buildings, of the neighborhood gardens, and not necessarily of the large parks, such as Tuileries GardensTheir time will come, and soon, but first they need to be filled with Francophile energy, and that can only be obtained from these places.
And so, as my eyes slowly get used to the sights of my beloved and my body fills with energy that comes from love, I can begin to take care of the other senses.
After loving the City of Lights with my eyes, I will continue to love it with my sense of hearing, and the truth is that there is almost no sound of Paris that I don't love. I love the sound of the morning silence, just before Paris wakes up, I really love the sound of the transition from the street clock to the silence of the church (especially if suddenly interrupted by the playing of an organ).
But most of all I love listening to the sound of the announcements at train stations, which I will probably hear the day I arrive in Paris (if I take a train directly fromCharles de GaulleIf you are not familiar with this sound, you are welcome to listen to this lovely musical piece:
After satisfying the senses of sight and hearing, it is time to satisfy the sense of smell. Here there is a fierce competition between several Parisian smells that almost make me spiritually exalted. The first smell is the one that greets you if you go out into the streets of the city early in the morning, especially in autumn. It is a smell that is all fresh air, combined with the smell of trees and fallen leaves. My second favorite smell is the smell of incense, which can be found almost everywhere Church in ParisBut the third scent is my favorite of all and can only be found inMetro stations Certain.
This smell is created by friction between the rubber wheels of the train and the metal tracks, so it can only be smelled at stations where trains with rubber wheels pass (if I'm not mistaken, these are the stations where line 6 passes). It's a sweet smell that I particularly like, a scent that I can never and will never want to forget. A smell better than any Chanel perfume, one that makes you forget all your troubles and even the smells of sweat and urine that accompany a trip on the metro.
And let's move on to the sense of touch. Here it's a little more difficult, because as long as I don't have someone whose hand I can hold while touring the streets of Paris, and whose lips I can kiss on theFrom the airIt's a little hard to use this sense in Paris. But don't worry, I have a solution for that too! I really like to feel the fruits inFavorite markets I'm in Paris, the trees in the gardens, the book covers in the Galignani store (224 Rue de Rivoli), the benches and the cold marble of the columns and statues. In short, here too I'm covered and know exactly what to do as soon as I return to stroll through Paris.
And now we are left with the last sense, and some would say the most important of all: the sense of taste. If until now the choice was difficult, now it becomes almost impossible. After all, in Paris there is so much Great restaurants, patisserie, boulangerie and other places that sell divine food. But don't worry, I won't leave you without a recommendation!
In the heart Marais District Not far from Place de la Vosges is Chez Janou, an excellent Provençal restaurant where you can have a 3-course meal, or just sit at the bar, drink pastis and stare at the posters of films based on the books of Marcel Pagnol (1895-1974). I plan to get there at noon, after visitingCarnival Museum, my favorite museum in Paris that reopened in May 2021. After I taste their excellent fish soup and entrecote again, it will be the turn of the dish for which we gathered: their divine chocolate mousse!
It's a huge bowl full of chocolate mousse, just like chocolate mousse should be: rich in flavor and slightly airy in texture. This is where the challenge begins: the waiter gives everyone who ordered the dish a plate, and you can take as much mousse as you want from the bowl. What's the problem, you ask?
If you take too little, you will want to eat more and feel unsatisfied. If you take too much, well, here ladies and gentlemen, your trip will be over for the day, because from the restaurant you will have to go to the hotel and fall into bed.
Luckily, eating chocolate mousse is an expertise I've developed over the years, so I won't fall into the trap. Two servings of mousse are the ideal amount for me, one that will provide you with the culinary comfort you need, but at the same time, won't make you collapse.
After I finish this dessert, I will know that the ceremony of returning to the City of Lights is over. All my senses have experienced it and now I can start my trip and “devour” every street, palace, garden, church and shop that this magical city has to offer!
Address: 2 Rue Roger Verlomme
A few words about Zvi Hazanov
Zvi Hazanov, born in 1977, is the founder of the website “Francophiles Anonymous.” You can read more about him atLink this.
What is your favorite place in Paris?
I hope this article has inspired you for your next trip (or at least a little escapism). If you're planning a trip to Paris soon, I highly recommend you don't miss out on this. Paris Guide I created especially for you. You will find all the information you need to plan a trip, from recommendations for restaurants and hotels, hiking trails, information about monuments and museums, and much more.
But before I leave you to dig into this guide, I'd love to hear from you: What is your favorite place in Paris? The first place you'll return to, right away, on your next trip.
Feel free to write to me in the comments here or recommend it to the other Francophiles in the group. Paris and Ile de France – Tips for travelers.
Longing for Paris!!!
I read with fascination and admiration what the other participants wrote. The mug of hot chocolate that appears as a connecting thread in the article (in all sorts of versions, including chocolate mousse…) expresses what most of us are looking for in Paris. We come there often (during normal times) and consider it our second home (except for those who live there, of course). That is why we wrote about places that are near the hotel or apartment we rent in the city. Temporary residences are also home to a certain extent. The cup of hot chocolate, sweet, sensual and caressing is like a mammal’s milk. A return to some ancient source of youth that always erupts as if it never disappoints, in the heart of a place where we have habits but where we also discover new and surprising things every time. Mother’s children.
Zvi knows how to connect Francophiles, and this article is another example of the federation of different sensitivities of different people. The result is very successful in its richness and uniqueness.
Hi Zvi. Thank you very much for the fun article. It would be nice if they included more precise addresses, so we could track down the magical places…