Edith Piaf – A (free) walking tour in Paris following her life and chansons

A few days ago we dedicated our Chanson Tuesday section to Edith Piaf, and today it's time to take her wonderful songs and walk with them through Paris. To do this, I chose the place where she grew up and where her personality was shaped – the Belleville district. Although Edith Piaf worked and lived in other places in Paris (for example, in the suburb of Neuilly), it is in the Belleville district that she managed to leave her mark more than anywhere else in Paris, and there is almost no place there that is not directly or indirectly related to her.

The church of Belleville

Start your trip by exiting the Jourdain metro and heading towards Belleville Street. The church across from you is Saint Jean Baptiste de Belleville, where Piaf's father's funeral took place in 1944. Right across the street you'll find a wonderful patisserie named after her (Patisserie de l'église), where the owner and head pastry chef of Nomili used to work.

The house where Edith Piaf was born

Stand in front of the church and turn left on Belleville Street. As you walk down the street, imagine the girl Edith Piaf Standing right next to you and singing for alms she received from passersby. During her life, Edith Piaf moved through quite a few houses, one of which can be found at 115 Belleville Street (in this house she lived with her father).

Continue down the street and you will reach number 72. There you will find a sign indicating that Edith Piaf was born on the doorstep of this house in 1915. According to legend, a mother knelt down to give birth in front of this house and two policemen helped her deliver the baby. In truth, this is probably a legend and according to municipal records, Edith was born at Tenon Hospital in the 20th arrondissement of Paris.

Places where Edith Piaf performed

Continue down the hill to number 8. There you will find Aux Folies, a charming neighborhood bar where she performed. Edith Piaf In her youth.

Head to Rue Faoubourg du Temple and at 105 you will find La Java, another concert hall, which became famous for its performances (if you happen to be carrying an MP3 player and headphones, this is the time to listen to its melancholy song l'Accordeonist). If you get there on Tuesdays or Fridays you can also enjoy the neighborhood market, which is held there these days.

Edith Piaf Museum

Continue right onto Rue Oberkampf and then left onto Rue Crespin-du-Gast. There at number 5 you will find the Edith Piaf Museum, which is located in the apartment where she lived at the age of 18. The place, which functions as a kind of miniature temple in honor of the singer, contains an impressive collection of fan letters, her famous black dress, bags, gloves, shoes, photos, and more. To complete the atmosphere, music from her songs is played in the place.

The tomb in Pere Lachaise

After you have finished visiting the museum, retrace your steps to the Boulevard and continue south until you reach the Père Lachaise Cemetery. At the entrance to the cemetery you will find a map showing the location of her family grave. Place a flower on the grave of a woman who, in her short and difficult life, managed to move so many people and leave behind such beautiful songs. This is where the tour ends.

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