Les Deux Magots: the café that became a symbol of Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Different words imply an exotic wood and a cloth that became the name of a café. Les Deux Magots is located on the Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés, opposite the old church that gave the district its name, and constitutes an independent point of weight in the mythology of the Left Bank: a street corner where literature, tourism, fashion, journalism and Parisian tradition meet under the same awning.

This article is part of a series we dedicated to the historic cafes of Paris , in which we delve into the place itself: history, atmosphere, up-to-date practical information, and of course our real recommendations for a visit.

Les Deux Magots stands on the Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés, opposite the old church that gave the district its name. It is not just an address next to the Café de Flore, but an independent point of weight in the mythology of the Left Bank: a street corner where literature, tourism, fashion, journalism and Parisian tradition meet under the same awning.

The name, which sounds a bit unique to a European ear, comes from two East Asian wooden figures – the magots – that are still placed inside the place today. Even before it became a café, a fabric and decorative goods store operated there that bore that name; over the years, the figures have remained as a kind of historical talisman, a small testament to an earlier phase in the address’s life. The official website states that the café has been operating there since 1884, and that the two figures are the source of its name and visual identity.

history

Les Deux Magots opened in 1884, at a time when Saint-Germain-des-Prés was beginning to move away from its image as a quiet, ecclesiastical district and become a center of intellectual life, publishing houses, galleries, magazines, and literary gatherings. If Le Procope belongs to eighteenth-century Paris, Les Deux Magots embodies the later Paris: a modern, fast-paced, international city, where the intellectual becomes a recognized public figure, a cultural idol.

In 1914, the place was taken over by Auguste Boulay, and later became a family business associated with the Mathivat family. The fact that the business remained family-owned over the years is one of the reasons why the place managed to maintain continuity, reputation, and recognizable style, even as the audience around it completely changed – from poets and surrealists, through philosophers and theater people, to modern tourists seeking a taste of the legend.

Character and atmosphere

This is a cafe of a view: open elegance, a view of the square, a constant movement of waiters, crowded tables, sitting in front of an ancient church. Whoever sits on the terrace becomes, to a certain extent, part of the picture he sees in the visitor's imagination: a cup of coffee, a straw chair, a short conversation, an open book, and the church opposite as a silent witness to the whole spectacle.

Famous personalities

The list of names associated with Les Deux Magots is very extensive. Among the figures identified with it are Guillaume Apollinaire, Louis Aragon, André Breton, André Gide, Jean Giraudeau, Jacques Ferver, Fernand Léger, Pablo Picasso, Ernest Hemingway, James Joyce, Albert Camus, Boris Vian, Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir.

Parisian scene

The establishment of the Prix des Deux Magots in 1933 was a milestone in the development of the institution. The prize was born as a response to the Prix Goncourt, which was perceived by some circles as too academic. The first winner was Ramon Cano for his book Le Chiendent. It is an almost perfect Parisian scene: not a speech at the academy, but a prize born in a café, a conversation, and a literary group.

Books, memoirs and stories

The official website of Les Deux Magots notes that it was here that Simone de Beauvoir wrote 'Les Mandarins', the novel for which she won the Prix Goncourt in 1954. The most public episode associated with the place is surrealist: André Breton and his friends sought an arena here in which to formulate 'common sense', the bourgeoisie, and the limits of imagination.

The cafe today

Les Deux Magots is still active, and today functions as a combination of a literary café, a Parisian restaurant, and a pilgrimage site. The official website lists extended opening hours – from 07:30 a.m. to 01:00 a.m. In the morning, the place is suitable for a coffee, pastry, or light meal facing the square; in the afternoon and evening, it becomes a more active restaurant. On weekends, holidays, and busy times, a special brunch is served, between 10:30 a.m. and 15:30 p.m.

How to get there?

The easiest way is by metro to Saint-Germain-des-Prés station on line 4, and from there it's a short walk to the square. You can also get there from Mabillon station on line 10, suitable for those coming from the Saint-Sulpice, Odéon or Latin Quarter area . A visit combines well with the nearby Café de Flore , Rue Bonaparte and a stroll through the galleries and bookstores of the district.

What to order?

The most iconic choice is the place's famous hot chocolate, or coffee with dessert while sitting on the terrace. Those who come for a meal can choose from Burgundy escargot, smoked salmon, beef tartare, beef fillet, sea fish, king prawns risotto, veal blanket, and desserts such as warm tarte tatin and profiteroles.

If it's your first time, grab a hot chocolate, coffee, or a good dish on the terrace, and focus on the overall experience. Les Deux Magots is not a place where you measure yourself solely by the plate; you also pay for the square, the characters on the pillar, the literary prize, and the slight feeling that you are participating for a moment in an old Parisian ritual.

Questions and Answers about Les Deux Magots

Les Deux Magots is another stop on the mythical map of Parisian cafes. For all the other addresses, and the full list of the walk between Sartre, the Flore and the Closerie, you can return to the main article on the historic cafes of Paris.