in short
- What's there: Levi Street, the Candle Museum, the Batignolles neighborhood, the City of Flowers and Notre Dame de Compagnie.
- Location: Northwest Paris, between the Arc de Triomphe and Montmartre.
- What to know in advance: Parc Monceau is listed in the 8th arrondissement and only its border touches here.
- Food markets: Four, and two of them are indoors until the evening. In addition, Levi Street is open almost every day.
- Restaurants: Five recommendations, concentrated in Batignolles and Dam Street.
- Who is it for: For those looking for a real Parisian neighborhood and not monuments.
- Itineraries: Two, and both of them all take place within the district.
The 17th arrondissement is the arrondissement that is often visited without knowing it. People arrive at Parc Monceau, get off at the train station or go to the Palais de Congrès, and don't stop to see what's around them.
And what's around it is the Batignolles neighborhood, which until 1860 was a village outside of Paris, and where Manet and his friends painted in its cafes. In the middle runs a food street that, in my opinion, is the tastiest in Paris, and I wrote an entire article about it.
So just before we get going, let's talk about what you'll find on this page: first the hotels and apartments I recommend in the district, then the attractions one by one, the five restaurants I send people to, the food markets with the days and hours, and finally the itineraries.
Recommended hotels in the 17th arrondissement of Paris
The 17th arrondissement is a logical choice for those who want to be close to the Arc de Triomphe at the price of a residential district, and for those who attend conferences at the Palais de Congrès. If you're not sure what's right for you, answer three questions and I'll choose from my recommendations:
My personal recommendation
Which hotel in the 17th arrondissement is right for you?
One short question, and I'll filter for you from the accommodations I've already checked and written about on the site what's suitable for the vacation you're planning.
Just a moment, I'll go through my recommendations and look for what suits you...
Prefer to go through all the recommendations yourself, with photos and details about each hotel? Go to my recommended hotels in the 17th arrondissement page.
Recommended apartments in the 17th arrondissement of Paris
With Levi Street and two indoor markets open until the evening, an apartment with a kitchen in this neighborhood is a practical idea. Here too, you can let me choose:
My personal recommendation
Which apartment in the 17th district is right for you?
One question about the area, and I'm sifting through the apartments I've reviewed and written about on the site. Up until now, I've recommended Udi's apartments directly here, but they're snapped up very quickly, so I've also included some great apartments from Booking.com that I handpicked for my readers.
Just a moment, I'll go through my recommendations and look for what suits you...
Want to go through all the apartments I recommend, with photos and details? Go to my recommended apartments in the 17th arrondissement page.
Attractions in the 17th arrondissement of Paris
These are the sites I recommend in the 17th arrondissement, and three of them have free admission.
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My recommendation
Rue de Lévis
In my opinion, the most delicious food street in Paris, and there are almost no tourists.
It's not a city market but a pedestrian street of permanent shops, so it's open almost every day and not just on market days. What's there: bakeries, cheeses, fish, patisseries and greens, at neighborhood prices and not city center prices. This is the place for those who live in an apartment and want to cook.
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Hidden Museum
The Henner Museum (Musée Jean-Jacques Henner)
A 19th-century painter's house and studio, preserved as it was.
Jean-Jacques Henner was a very successful painter in his time and is almost completely forgotten today, and that's exactly why the place is interesting: it's a full Parisian artist's house from the 1880s, with a workshop on the top floor and northern light. A small national museum, an hour is enough, and almost no visitors.
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On the border with the 8th district
Parc Monceau
English-style park with a rotunda and classical columns.
Administrative point worth knowing: The park itself is listed in the 8th arrondissement, at 35 boulevard de Courcelles, and only its northern border touches the 17th arrondissement. The park was built in the 18th century as a private garden for the Duke of Chartres, and was deliberately designed to look like a romantic ruin, with broken columns and a small pyramid. So anyone looking for the park's surroundings will also find it on the 8th arrondissement page.
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Free entrance
Notre-Dame de Compassion
A small chapel built in memory of a prince who died in a carriage accident.
In 1842, Ferdinand Philippe, Louis Philippe's eldest son and heir apparent, was killed when he jumped from a speeding carriage on the way to Neuilly. The family built a chapel on the site, with eight stained glass windows, designed by Ingres. The chapel was moved here from its original location in 1970, and few people enter it.
Other attractions in the 17th District worth exploring
These are places that I haven't written a separate article about yet, but if you're walking around the neighborhood it's worth knowing that they're there:
| the place | Address | Why stop there? |
|---|---|---|
| Martin Luther King Park (Clichy-Batignolles) | 147 rue Cardinet | A new park on abandoned railway tracks, overlooking the new Paris courthouse |
| Square des Batignolles | 144 bis rue Cardinet | An English-style garden from the Second Empire, with a lake and an artificial grotto |
| City of Flowers (Cité des Fleurs) | 154 avenue de Clichy | A private alley from 1847 with thirty-three houses and gardens. A place to live, pass by quietly. |
| Church of Sainte-Marie de Batignolles | Place du Docteur Félix Lobligeois | A neoclassical church in the heart of a square that looks like a village, and that's exactly what was here. |
| Palais des Congrès | 2 place de la Porte Maillot | A conference and performance center, and a large shopping center for those who need shelter from the rain |
| The Tern Flower Market | Place des Ternes | A flower market, not a food market, open almost every day at Teren Square |
Tours and activities in the 17th Arrondissement that might interest you
And if you're looking for attractions in other neighborhoods of the city, my Paris attractions page brings them all together in one place.
My recommended restaurants in the 17th arrondissement of Paris
In the 17th arrondissement, my list is concentrated in Batignolles and Dam Square, and these are places where the crowd is mostly local:
| the restaurant | Type | Address | Why |
|---|---|---|---|
| The Atelier des Batignolles | French classic | 12 Rue des Batignolles | A neighborhood bistro near the square, and the crowd is completely local |
| The Relay of Venice | French classic | 271 Bd Pereire | One and only menu, entrecote with fries, and no reservations. You arrive and wait. |
| Wild House | French classic | 13 Boulevard de Courcelles | A place with exaggerated plant design, adjacent to Parc Monceau |
| Mova | French classic | 39 Rue des Dames | Contemporary French cuisine on a street that has become the neighborhood's food hub |
| Janine | On the radar | 90 Rue des Dames | A young place on the same street, that came on my radar |
Looking for restaurants in other neighborhoods? My recommended restaurants page is organized by cuisine type and neighborhood.
The food markets of the 17th arrondissement in Paris
The district has four food markets, two of which are indoor and open until the evening. In addition, Levi Street is run like a market, except that the shops there are permanent.
| The market | Address | Days and hours | Metro |
|---|---|---|---|
| Batignolles Covered Market (Marché couvert des Batignolles) | 96 bis rue Lemercier | Tuesday to Friday 08:30 to 13:00 and 15:30 to 20:00, Saturday 08:30 to 20:00, Sunday 08:30 to 14:00 | Brochant |
| Ternes Covered Market (Marché couvert des Ternes) | 8 bis rue Lebon | Tuesday to Saturday 08:00 to 13:00 and 16:00 to 19:30, Sunday 08:00 to 13:00 | Ternes |
| Navier Market (Marché Navier) | Between rue Navier, rue Lantiez and rue des Epinettes | Tuesday and Friday 07:00 to 14:30 | Guy Moquet |
| Berthier Market (Marché Berthier) | Boulevard de Reims, along square André Ulmann | Wednesday 07:00 to 14:30, Saturday 09:00 to 15:00 | Champerret Gate |
In addition to these four, the Batignolles Organic Market operates on Saturdays on Rue de la Boulevard Batignolles, and it divides the 17th arrondissement from the 8th arrondissement , where I listed it. On my markets page you will find recommended markets in the other neighborhoods of the city.
Itineraries in the 17th arrondissement of Paris
Two routes all occur within this district, and there are no routes that pass through it and continue.
Want all the itineraries I've written, by district and by theme? My Paris itineraries page has them all.
The next step in your trip
The 17th arrondissement is located between the Arc de Triomphe and the 8th arrondissement and Montmartre , so it is easy to combine: a morning on Rue Lévy and the Batignolles neighborhood, and from there a walk east to Montmartre.
And if you want to be prepared for any scenario, my comprehensive Paris guide brings together all the knowledge I've accumulated for you. Have an amazing trip, and don't forget to buy some cheese on Rue Levi for me.
