48 hours in Paris. Sounds like a dream, but for art lovers it can be quite a challenge. As a cultural hub boasting some of the world's finest art treasures, Paris is like a giant playground for art lovers.
As in other fields, in art too, the local field ranges between conservatism and a tendency toward classicism and uncompromising contemporary boldness. This mix makes it possible to see, in one day, the works of the pharaohs, alongside classical sculpture, move on to modern art that can be said to have been born in this city, and linger in the most avant-garde and exciting gallery.
But since we are dealing with contemporary art, and I was chosen for the difficult task of filtering and sorting, and offering an itinerary of only two days – I will focus on it, plus a few nods to the past, which in my opinion should not be missed. Please note that this is not the well-worn tourist route, you will not find the obvious here – thePompidou Or eLouvreA path for artistic enthusiasts, one might say.
We will start our first day withThe Mara region, we will visit selected galleries, the European Photography House, and take a look at the bizarre and unique Hunting Museum, with a few more surprises along the way. From there we will ascend to the lively Belleville area, flooded with street art, and we will not miss the beautiful view of the city. A short metro ride will take us from there to the Pantin district, where one of the most beautiful galleries in the city is located, and with it we will end the day.
The second day will be dedicated toMuseums and more institutional art centers that require a relatively long stay. We will start with a prestigious dog park and immediately after that, in a so-called avant-garde art complex, we will visitBourse de Commerce – A new and well-invested art complex by the famous collector François Pinault, and we will move on to the Anthropological Museum, which is an architectural gem, for a pastoral lunch break. From there, to the Palais de Tokyo, which displays exquisite and biting contemporary art, we will gaze at the sculpture that sparked quite a scandal by Jeff Koons, and we will finish at the beautiful Louis Vuitton Center.
Day One – Galleries and Hidden Corners in the Mara Neighborhood
First stop: The European House of Photography
Let's start right on the outskirts of the Marais neighborhood, where the Maison Europeenne de la Photographie, or MEP for short, is located. In the rich Parisian artistic landscape, this is a slightly lesser-known art center - and yet, for photography enthusiasts, it is one of the most successful. Exhibitions are presented here by important photographers currently active on the scene, as well as group exhibitions that address issues that are at the forefront of cultural and current affairs - such as gender, identity, or, for example, the war in Ukraine.
Address: MEP 5/7 Rue de Fourcy
Second stop: Street art passage – Impasse des Arbalétriers
A step and a half away from the popular Rue des Rosiers pedestrian street with its falafel and Jewish delicatessens, lies a much more modest pedestrian street that is miraculously decorated with street art by some of the leading artists in the field.
Through a modest-looking archway with the inscription Centre culturel suisse (Swiss Cultural Center), you enter a small historic street, Impasse des Arbalétriers. The roots of this street are deeply rooted in the Middle Ages, and in recent years the ancient walls have been given new life with street art works by genre stars like Invader and others.
Entrance via 36 Rue des Hospitalières Saint-Gervais
The Francophile's NoteHistory buffs will be happy to know that this is where the Duke of Orléans was murdered, an event that led to a civil war between the Duke's supporters. Burgundy For Orléans supporters. You can read about this story in the articleMurder on Barbet Street.
Third stop: Perrotin Gallery
You mentioned galleries in Paris – you mentioned Galerie Perrotin. The gallery, founded by collector Emmanuel Perrotin in the 1990s, became a hit almost from the start, and today, thirty-something years later, it is one of the largest and most important galleries in the world, controlling a powerhouse of branches that extends from Paris to New York and also passes through Shanghai and Dubai, and more.
This is a gallery that is a safe bet, because if an artist is lucky enough to exhibit here, it means that he is an international star now, or that the exhibition in the prestigious space will catapult him to the center of global activity in no time.
Address: 76 Rue de Turenne
Fourth stop: Hunting and Nature Museum
One of the most diverse, if not the strangest, art spaces in Paris is the ‘Museum of Hunting and Nature.’ Don’t worry, you won’t find dry displays here about the history of hunting in 19th-century France or the migration of swallows in Western Europe.
Instead, entering this museum is like diving into something out of Alice in Wonderland – lavish rooms filled with interesting artifacts from around the world, antique weapons, stuffed animals, and various collectibles alongside paintings and figurines. All of this is not displayed in a classic museum setting, but rather clutters the rooms and walls like in the home of a wealthy and eccentric uncle.
In addition to the historical and natural items, it also hosts contemporary exhibitions that intervene in the space and add to the experience. Recommended for fans of the strange.
At: Museum of Hunting and Nature, 62 Rue des Archives
Fifth stop: Belleville neighborhood
The Belleville neighborhood in Paris has been known for its graffiti scene since the late 80s, and you can find works by both the oldest and most contemporary street artists there.
It's worth going out to the side streets and looking for the facades of the buildings that function as giant canvases. With a closer look, you can find underground and secret works by the most important street artists in the scene. It's a must to pass by the spectacular view of Belleville Park and the colorful and bustling Rue Dénoyez, which has become a renewed and changing canvas, captivating all practitioners and enthusiasts of the genre.
Sixth stop: Theodos Rupak Gallery in the Pentin District
All the galleries in Paris are beautiful and well-invested, but there is no gallery like this. In the industrial district of Pantin, near the Hermes and Chanel factories, another branch of the famous gallery opened a few years ago. Theodos Rupak represents some of the most important artists in the world, including Georges Baselitz, Anselm Kiefer, Rauschenberg, Gilbert and George, and others. The gallery converted an old metal factory, with an industrial character from the early 20th century, into a beautiful and contemporary gallery with more than 5,000 square meters of exhibition space. It is truly spectacular.
69 Av. du Général Leclerc
First day route map
Day Two: Museums and Institutional Art Complexes
First stop: “The Good Market”
I suggest starting our second day at the department store “Le Bon Marche”. The long-standing institution holds a not-so-bad art and design collection, parts of which can be seen between the stores and on the upper floor of the department store. But more important than that is the “Carte Blanche” exhibition – a suspended installation by international artists invited to create in the central space of the department store. Currently, sculptural installations by the Indian artist Subodh Gupta are on display there.
From there by metro or on foot.
Second stop: Rivoli 59 – Artists’ Complex and Gallery
This is a long-standing alternative institution that over time has become less subversive and more commercialized, but can still provide a fun and relatively light experience.
The place started out as a squat – an illegal settlement of artists who created studios, a gallery and cultural events for themselves. After a few years, they received recognition from the state and now operate legally. During the place’s operating hours, you can wander around the artists’ workshops, meet them and, most importantly, enjoy the colorful and lively vibe.
Third stop: Bourse de Commerce
For those of you who have visited Paris before, this place will be a real celebration, because a new museum is not born every day. Into the abundant field of museums and exhibition spaces of Paris, a new and extremely impressive player stormed in almost two years ago.
François Pinault's collection contains no less than ten thousand (!) works of art by hundreds of artists and, after two beautiful and important spaces in Venice, has also been given a permanent seat in the historic Bourse building in Paris. As is customary in private museums, the architecture is part of the matter. In this case, the legendary architect Tadeo Ando was given the task of integrating innovative and groundbreaking architecture into the historic building for preservation, and the result is unique and fascinating in its own right.
More details inArticle about the stock exchange.
Museum tickets can be ordered fromLink this.
Fourth stop: “Tulip Bouquet”, a sculpture by Jeff Koons
In the most touristic heart of Paris, near theChamps Elysees – In the garden of the Petit Palais, you can find Koons' pompous statue: 10 meters high, brightly colored, and the familiar kitsch of the American artist.
Koons created the statue as a tribute to the victims of the wave of terrorist attacks that took place in the city in 2015. You can count on Koons to succeed in stirring up a commotion even when he tries to make a moving tribute, because in addition to the fact that the elegant and meticulous taste of the French was slightly shaken by Koons' extravagance, it also turned out in retrospect that although the statue was given as a gift, the costs of our transportation and installation were imposed on the French, which is called - a thorn in the side.
Fifth stop: The Ethnographic Museum of Ka Burnley
It’s a bit of an “off topic” because, with the exception of a few rare exhibitions of contemporary art, it’s not a typical art museum. However, it is one of the most impressive museums in Paris – with a vast collection and an impressive display of hundreds of exhibits at any given time, all carefully curated, beautifully designed and stylish (also suitable for children, by the way). In our case, it’s a must-see for architecture enthusiasts and those of you looking for less-expected corners of the city, plus a great restaurant in a space surrounded by beautiful greenery.
Address: 37 Quai Jacques Chirac
More information can be found atMuseum website.
Sixth stop: Pelle de Tokyo
This visit is actually a double bonus, as the Palais de Tokyo is located in a twin-winged building in an old palace that went through many transformations until it was decided to convert it into an art center. On one side you can visit the Museum of Modern Art of Paris and on the other the Palais de Tokyo – the largest center for contemporary art in Europe.
Although the outer shell is the same, the two twins are very different in their essence, style, and appearance, and if you have time, it's really worth visiting and comparing the two. At Palais de Tokyo you'll find the most contemporary exhibitions there is, and amazing architecture that combines the contemporary and the industrial within the classic palace.
Address: 13 Av. du Président Wilson
More details can be found atMuseum website
Last stop: Louis Vuitton Foundation
Right in the heart of the Bois de Boulogne in the 16th arrondissement stands an impressive building designed by Frank Gehry that houses the Fondation Louis Vuitton Museum. The museum, which opened in 2014, has already earned a reputation as one of the must-see destinations for art lovers. It usually hosts large solo exhibitions by modern and contemporary artists, and occasionally group exhibitions on a specific theme. It is worth combining a visit with a stroll through the forest surrounding the building.
Route map – second day
About Shani Werner
Talking Art is a project founded by Shani Werner in 2013, who holds a BA in photography and a MA in art history from the University of Haifa. The project deals with contemporary urban tours with an emphasis on the art world, and operates in Israel and Europe.
Shani is a veteran tour guide, a contemporary art researcher with an emphasis on photography, manages Talking Art and designs new content for various types of tours. She recently launched the Talking Art LOCALS brand, which offers Hebrew-language art tours in European capitals, including Paris.
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Recommended hotels in Paris for art lovers
Here are some great hotels that you should stay at during your visit to Paris, and are especially relevant to art lovers and those who want to try the itineraries we prepared for you in the article.
Nice Hotel
A hotel with an original and unique design, with attentive service and a perfect location. It is located on Rue Rivoli, next to the Marais and a very short distance from the Louvre and Notre Dame. You can go out of it to attractions in paris, and make the most of your time.
For more information and orders
The Queen's Pavilion & Spa
Another chic and high-quality hotel in the Marais district, in the beating heart of Paris. This is an exclusive and small hotel, fifteen minutes from the Louvre and with luxuries such as a spa, air-conditioned rooms and various types of breakfasts.
For more information and orders
The Tournelles
A wonderfully elegant hotel, with a winning location – a 2-minute walk from Place des Vosges and less than a kilometer from the Pompidou Center. The hotel provides a homely, yet high-class atmosphere, and is located in a historic 17th-century building.
For more information and orders
Hi Shani,
There are also galleries (some are commercial), but some are beautiful:
Place des Vouges
This was the home of the musketeers. The galleries today are around where they used to put the horses.