By: Ariel Toitou
A two-part article about French cheeses. Click here for part two.
“How can you govern a country that has 246 types of cheese?” — Charles de Gaulle.
As someone considered a French national icon, de Gaulle is certainly not suspected of lacking appreciation for his people; yet, in this case, he seems to have underestimated the French and the extensive culinary tradition they founded: It is impossible to state the exact number of French cheeses, partly due to the difficulty of definition and the problem of referring to unique subspecies, but the underestimaters use the number 300, while other estimates range from 1,000 to 1,600 types of cheese! Indeed, it is not easy to rule France.
French Cheeses – Data
- 96% of French people eat cheese! Only four percent claimed not to eat or rarely eat dairy products. Almost half of all French people, about 47 percent, said they consume cheese on a daily basis.
- France Considered the world's leading consumer of cheese, with an average consumption of 26.7 kilograms per capita, the country surpasses 'cheese powers' such as Germany, Greece, Iceland, and others.
- Surprisingly and contrary to the impression one might get, France does not lead the list of cheese producers; with a production of 1,947,000 tons, the French lag behind Germany and the United States, the leaders of the list by a considerable margin. On the other hand, we can take solace in the fact that the French are ahead in the production category of our old culinary rival – Italy – and the Netherlands, which is also known for the quality of its cheeses, thanks in part to its excellent grazing conditions.
- In terms of value, France leads the list of cheese exporters. In terms of quantity, however, the Germans have the upper hand.
- Export achievements can be attributed, among other things, to giant corporations such as the Lactalis Groupe (the largest dairy group in the world and the second largest food group in France, after the food corporation Danone); other companies that contribute to the production balance are Savencia Cheese & Dairy, Bell, and Danone.
In the absence of up-to-date sources, some of the data is from previous years. The French, as usual, are not shy about their cheese, so it is likely that some changes have occurred. Whatever the exact numbers, the facts are clear: the French love cheese; and when they love something, no one can show it better.
The face of the generation is like the face of cheese
What makes France a culinary powerhouse and the world's cheese capital? What explains the multitude of variations on the same basic and familiar dish, the production of which can be traced back thousands of years? Tracing French cheese is like tracing the characteristics of the French nation. First, it is necessary to note the multifaceted nature of the national cuisine. In fact, treating such a cuisine as a unified and clear entity ignores the importance of regional influence, different crops, soil conditions and cultural influences on French cuisine. The French attach great importance to changing environmental conditions and discuss their influence on food flavors. In this state of affairs, various variations have developed and been adapted to familiar dishes, including cheese, based on local agriculture and regional traditions.
In addition, historical circumstances, including the difficulties of preservation in the absence of refrigeration, led many to conduct various experiments - the goal of which was: preserving food over time. The experiments were successful to varying degrees and ultimately contributed to the creation of many of the cheeses we know today. In this context, the influence of Catholic monasteries on the cheese-making processes was great; in contrast to the limited household economy, where fresh food was consumed and farmers avoided producing more than was necessary for their livelihood and the economy of their households, the difficulties of accurate estimation in mass monasteries gave rise to a constant need for long-term storage of food. Priests and nuns demonstrated remarkable diligence, as well as a touch of culinary creativity, so that many of the beloved French cheeses owe their right to exist to them.
And finally: the restless French character. Food experiments, a constant race to improve flavors, the constant examination and reformulation of basic principles, have also contributed to a considerable extent to the development, flourishing, and astonishing prosperity of the cuisine – considered by many to be the best in the world, while even those who disagree with the statement will certainly accept the claim that it is at least the most creative and diverse.
The division plan: how cheeses are divided into categories
The French are avid fans of classification and sorting. From the monumental project of L'Encyclopédie to the meticulous division of mother sauces, they have always been particularly obsessed with cataloguing and placing items in orderly inventories.
The method of classifying cheeses is not universally agreed upon; it is possible to consider many touchstones as a criterion for categorization. One possible division refers to the animal from which the milk used to make the cheese is obtained (cow, goat or sheep); other divisions rely on the production regions – based on regional production specialties; on the degree of industrialization in the production process and its mass; on the texture of the cheese – from the softest to the hardest cheeses; and on the aging process. Different schools of thought choose diverse criteria for classification; but, true to the nature of the site, I will stick to the good old French division.
The traditional form of division lists eight main ancestors, into which French cheeses are classified:
Fresh cheese
Fresh cheese, also known as 'unripened', is cheese that has not undergone any aging process. The lack of aging results in a soft product, creamy in texture, delicate in flavor, and with a fresh aroma. Since many of the variables that distinguish between types of cheese are the result of aging processes (for example: the type of mold and bacteria, the length of aging, etc.), soft cheeses tend to have similar flavors.
Still, even soft cheeses have their own unique 'character', thanks to the following variable parameters:
- Terroir (a term used to describe the totality of environmental conditions for agricultural crops: the nature of the soil, the specific climate, the slope of the slopes, animals and plants in the growing area) The crops that were consumed by the cows, goats or sheep;
- The amount of whey in the production process;
- The degree of moisture drainage before marketing;
- The amount of salt the manufacturer chooses to use.
Despite the differences that may exist, the many similarities between the various fresh cheeses, as well as their refined and refreshing flavors, make the cheeses belonging to the family a convenient base for adding herbs and spices.
Since the ability to distinguish fresh cheese from its peers is less than for other types, there are not many clear examples of fresh French cheeses; yet, when it comes to food, the French tend not to be picky. Here are some common examples of fresh cheeses that originated in France:
Fromage Blanc (white cheese) andFromage retired (Fresh cheese)
A pair of fresh French cheeses, originating in northern France and southern Belgium. The name fromage blanc means 'white cheese', while the name fromage frais translates to 'fresh cheese'. Both types can be made from cow's milk, goat's milk, or sheep's milk. According to French regulations, the name refers to unripened cheeses that have undergone primarily lactic fermentation (the initial fermentation of dairy products, during which two molecules of lactic acid are formed from a single molecule of glucose).
The texture of the cheeses is smooth, creamy, and spreadable. Both taste similar to cream cheese; although provance fries – and especially provance blanc – are sometimes enriched with raw cream, their fat content is much lower than that of cream cheeses. The main difference between the two types: While the former contains live cultures according to the standard, the fermentation process in provance blanc was stopped before it was marketed.
Form of presentation
Slight differences in acidity, which originate from the fermentation stages, create slight changes in their uses: Fromage blanc excels in fresh and delicate flavors and a light citrus aroma. Therefore, it is often served as a dessert, alongside fruits and jams. Another way of serving it is as a dip, often by enriching it with herbs. And finally: the old classic of 'bread and cheese' did not pass over French cuisine, where the white cheese is served as a filling rich in health values.
Fromage frais, on the other hand, boasts a subtle acidity; this acidity makes it a fitting match for caviar, with which it is most often served. Enriching it with honey or serving it alongside fruit are also acceptable methods, especially when combined with white, sparkling or fortified wines.
Petit Suisse (petit-suisse)
Despite its name (which means 'little Swiss cheese'), Petit Suisse originated in the Picardy region of France, near the NormandyIn the 1850s, a Swiss worker on Madame Harold's farm assumed that adding cream to the cheese would lead to a richer texture; not surprisingly, he was right. The cheese contains about ten percent fat, is not salted, and is usually sold wrapped in a roll five centimeters high and three centimeters in diameter.
Form of presentation
As you might expect, Petit Suisse is rich and soft, with a smooth, creamy texture and a delicate, delicate flavor. The cheese has subtle hints of sour, sweet, and even spicy flavors. The way it is served is varied: while additions of honey, fruit jams, and nuts are quite common, some prefer to eat it salty, peppery, or with herbs. Others even serve it as a filling for various pastries, after mixing it with mustard – as a means of preventing it from drying out during baking. In France, as in France, there are as many opinions as there are cheeses…
Boursin cheese (Boursin)
A soft cheese in a variety of flavors, with a taste and texture that is slightly reminiscent of cream cheese. The cheese was created in Normandy by a local producer named François Boursin, who decided to add 'garlic and fine herbs' to the traditional white cheese. Boursin would later say that the inspiration for the cheese 'matured' in his head after seeing his guests enriching their white dip cheeses with various herbs.
The product was a novelty at the time (1957) and is considered the first flavored cheese product sold in France. Over the years, new flavors have been added; some flavors are still sold regularly today (garlic and fine herbs, caramelized onions and herbs, etc.); some are marketed as limited editions (chimichurri, black truffle and sea salt) and some flavors have been discontinued altogether (cashew, steamed cauliflower and cumin; you can understand why, right?)
Form of presentation
The flavors of the cheese vary depending on its seasoning, but in general, the cheese is suitable as a dip for crispy pastries, as a filling for baked doughs, and as a richly flavored spread for sourdough and sourdough breads.
Other French cheeses in the family: Faisselle, Brocciu (shares many characteristics with whey cheeses, a category that will be presented below), and more.
Soft white mold cheeses
The immediate association that comes to mind when many people think of French cheeses. This family includes cheeses that have undergone a short aging process, usually between three and six weeks. During the aging process, the cheeses are exposed to a mold called Penicillium camemberti. The action of the Penicillium camemberti fungus converts the fats in the cheese into compounds with a unique aroma, known as 'ketones'. These compounds give the cheeses a somewhat earthy aromatic note, which is described by tasters as mushroomy or nutty.
The aging of the cheese – from the outside inwards – creates a thin, stable white rind. The rind’s role is not limited to appearance: the rind that develops around the cheese covers and preserves a soft interior with a buttery, soft texture, sometimes even creamy. The flavors of the cheeses are delicate and lactic, but with a distinct aroma that allows producers a wide range of flavors. As mentioned, many of the well-known French cheeses belong to the white mold category, including two of the most well-known cheeses, Brie and Camembert – which gave Penicillium Camembertii its name. Although the cheeses identified with the family are usually made from cow’s milk, there are examples of soft cheeses produced from goat’s and sheep’s milk, with a thin white mold rind.
The factors that distinguish soft white mold cheeses from each other are the type of milk, the length of ripening time, the liquid content, the degree of humidity in the aging area, and more. The following are the main white mold cheeses:
Berry cheese (Brie)
Brie cheese is ancient; although scholars agree that it dates back to the Roman invasion, the question of its exact origin remains unclear. Regionally, the cheese is produced in northern France, on the plains of the historical-geographical region of Brie, near Paris; The local cheesemakers were lucky: thanks to their proximity to the capital, the marketers were able to offer their wares to the residents of Paris. From the bustling city markets, it was a short distance to the tables of the kings of France, who found Brie cheese a real delicacy. It turns out that there are some things that do not change over the years and with the change of classes.
The love of cheese among kings dates back centuries. In the 8th century AD, the chronicles of Charlemagne, king of the Franks and one of the greatest rulers of Europe, mention the cheese as a ‘delicacy’; there is a record of King Robert II le Pieux being served Brie cheese while he was staying at his residence, the Château de Melun, in 999 AD; and finally, centuries later, King Louis XVI requested Brie cheese for his last meal before being led to the guillotine to the cheers of an enthusiastic mob.
The nickname 'Queen of Cheeses and Cheese of Kings' was given to Brie after a tough competition, in which it won the coveted title. The competition was held due to a heated debate at the 'Congress of Vienna' – a diplomatic conference convened to restore European order after the fall of Napoleon. What will we say and what will we talk about: Local politics may come to its aid. Instead of discussing complicated legal reforms, our leaders will discuss the weighty question of the best Israeli cheese (and not: cottage cheese is not Israeli).
With fame comes responsibility: Brie's soaring popularity has spawned a wave of imitations, which are being marketed in many different countries. However, it was not until 1980 that Brie de Meaux was awarded the AOC (Appellation d'origine contrôlée) label. A decade later, Brie de Melun also received the coveted title. For now, these are the only Brie cheeses to join the exclusive club.
Genuine brie cheese (unlike its generic versions) is made from unpasteurized cow's milk and without the use of stabilizers. After heating to a temperature of 37 degrees Celsius (99 degrees Fahrenheit), the cheese is poured into preservation molds - where it remains for 18 hours. After the hours, the brie is salted and sent to age - for at least four weeks.
Although there are many variations of the beloved flavor, the basic characteristics of Brie are carefully preserved: the cheese is recognizable by its pale grayish hues and the thin, whitish rind that is wrapped around it. Its flavor varies from 'delicate and fruity', especially in the Brie de Meaux version, to 'nutty and spicy, with bitter touches' – in the Brie de Meaux version. The aroma of Brie is prominent and strong and the texture is buttery, soft and rich.
Form of presentation
To get the most out of its delicate flavors, the cheese is usually served at room temperature; to do this, it should be removed from the refrigerator at least an hour or two before serving. Its delicate yet bold flavors make it one that may be served alone, whole or after being sliced, as a pre-dessert. Another option is to serve it as part of a cheese platter, alongside fruit, pastries, and other savory crisps. Dessert wines pair wonderfully with Brie cheese and enhance its flavors, while a fruity prosecco with a low alcohol content is considered an innovative and fascinating recommendation, a fusion, if you will, between culinary French To Italian.
Camembert (Camembert)
A soft, creamy cheese that originated in the village of Camembert in Normandy, in northwestern France. A leading theory holds that the cheese originated in the cellar of Marie Harel in Normandy, in 1791. There, in the pre-refrigeration era, and on the advice of a local priest named Charles-Jean Bonvoust, Mrs. Harel would turn sour raw milk into small cheese rounds, which she would age in the cool cellar.
The damp, humid environment attracted mold fungi, leading to the development of the familiar whitish rind and the first Camembert cheese. The legend encounters historical difficulties, due to the fact that at the time described, Marie, together with her husband Jacques, lived in Roiville. However, since the couple worked on a local farm in the heights of Camembert, you should not disgrace the old tradition.
Harel headed a local dynasty that led the mass production of Camembert cheese, notably by her grandson Cyril Pinel. As the standard-bearers of history, the descendants of the Harel family saw themselves as the sole legitimate users of the name 'Camembert'. However, despite their staunch objections, other producers from the Normandy region began to compete with the family monopoly, starting in 1870.
The cheese is sometimes compared to its ancient relative, Brie cheese, although recently it has a slightly higher fat content. In its original version, the cheese was made from unpasteurized milk; even today, cheeses that boast the title 'Camembert de Normandie' (about 10 percent of all cheeses) are required by the French AOC standard to be made from unpasteurized milk. However, many good varieties are now made from pasteurized milk, the best of which is Camembert La Chatelain.
The cheese is characterized by a pale yellow color and a whitish rind. Its fat content is 45 percent and its texture is soft, tender and buttery. The aroma of Camembert is earthy and its flavors range from sweet milkiness in its young version to deeper, richer flavors in mature Camembert cheese.
Form of presentation
It is best served as part of a cheese platter, alongside a wide range of sweet and savory toppings. A little honey and fresh berries would also go well with the aromatic cheese, but sautéed mushrooms or roasted garlic would also complement its rich flavors. The cheese is suitable for serving with a wide variety of wines – depending on its ripeness. Pinot Noir is known as the perfect pairing, which can slightly soften the strong flavor of Camembert cheese and emphasize its unique aroma.
Crottin de Chavignol
You probably haven't heard the name of the local goat cheese before. It's not as famous as its sisters, the white-rind beef cheeses; nevertheless, we chose to tell its story, because what is France without a little romance? Caroten cheese is made in the Loire Valley, in the small village of Chevignol. The village has only 200 residents, and they are proud of their cheese. According to estimates, Caroten de Chevignol has been made since the 16th century, but the earliest documentation of its production dates back to 1829, when the cheese is described in a dried form on the pages of a gray tax inspector's notebook (the grayness is an educated guess; after all, this is a tax official).
Etymologically, the origin of the name 'Croton' is unclear. The most refined hypothesis is that the word refers to a small oil lamp made of burnt clay, 'crot' in French, due to the similarity between it and the molds in which the cheeses were made. Another hypothesis, slightly less provocative, points to the similarity between the rind of aged Croton cheese and animal dung, 'crotte' in French. To preserve a healthy appetite, we strongly recommend believing in the first version.
Even today, the cheese is produced mainly using traditional methods: the raw milk comes from Alpine goats, which are easily identified by their thick, brown fur. The cheese is protected by the AOC seal, which explicitly states that it must be produced in the vicinity of the village of Chevignol.
The cheese can be consumed in various stages of preparation: from its earliest days, when it is still a fresh cheese, refined in its flavors, often served alongside fine local herbs; through to a young cheese, with an ivory rind, with a slightly higher density and stronger flavors; and ending with a mature, aged cheese, with a granular texture and a hard, bluish-colored rind.
Form of presentation
The cheese is usually served as part of a cheese platter. Also common is the local presentation: baked croûton de Chevignol, on a bed of fresh green salad. The proud villagers will be happy to pair the cheese with local Sancerre wine, but white Sauvignon wines will also do the cheese a favor with its unique flavors.
Other relatives: Valencia cheese (Valençay), Brie-Savarin cheese (Brillat-Savarin) and cheese Shores (Chaource).
In the second part of the article, we will review washed soft rind cheeses, uncooked pressed cheeses, and cooked pressed cheeses. The series of articles will be completed with a review of the remaining types: blue cheeses, stretchy cheeses, and cheeses made from whey.
A few words about Ariel Tuito
“Every man's first homeland is his own country, and the second is France.” ~Thomas Jefferson.
My name is Ariel Toitou, born in 1998, an ultra-Orthodox student of philosophy, economics and political science. France is a microcosm of the human spirit. And like the French, between lively discussions about deconstruction and attempts to understand the meaning of the concept (after all, “France is a country where it is more important to express an opinion on Homer than to read it.”), I will always find time to savor croissant A strictly kosher Jew (Haredi after all…) – at dusk in the Israeli sun, to the sound of a favorite chanson.