The Verdon River (not to be confused with Verdun, the village where the armistice was signed in World War I) in southern France rises near a mountain pass called Col d'Allos, not far from the town of Barcelonette, close to the Italian border in eastern France. After 166 km, the Verdon River flows into the larger Durance River, south of the small town of Manosque. Between 1929 and 1975, five different dams were built on the riverbed to produce electricity, an ambitious plan that began as early as 5 (but was halted by the world wars).
The Verdon River Canyon was formed by the erosion of relatively soft limestone by water, between the charming town of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie and the small provincial town of Castellane. The canyon is considered the second largest in Europe, after the Tara Canyon, most of which is within the borders of Montenegro.
My experiences at Verdon Mall
The Verdon Canyon was first mentioned in writing in 1782, and in the second half of the 19th century it was described in one of the first tourist books published in France. However, it was not until 1906 that it first became known outside of France.
When I was young, I studied in France for several years. For my work, I needed a car from my employer (gasoline at his expense!) and I took advantage of it – every vacation, I crossed the borders of France and raced to one of the European countries (this was the late 70s: the European Union was in its infancy and there were still borders everywhere).
Only after a few years did the thought hit me that I was hundreds and thousands of kilometers outside the borders of France, but I did not know the country I was living in. From that moment on, every vacation, even a short one, was dedicated to magical trips to spectacular corners of one of the most beautiful countries in the world (no, it is not the most beautiful. There are some more beautiful than it, but not many – in my personal opinion).
On one of my trips, in 1978, I went on a hike through the mountain passes of the Alps and on my way back to the lowlands I came upon the canyon in question, simply because the road was marked green on the Michelin road map (no one had yet dreamed of the Internet, Waze had not yet been born). For those born too late, a green marking on a Michelin map indicates a scenic road that is usually worth taking. Over the years of my travels, I have learned to trust their map markings.
I discovered a route of incredible beauty. A narrow, winding road on the edge of a deep canyon (700 meters, did I mention that?). At the bottom, a river with deep turquoise water, an abundance of vegetation on the steep slopes, except for the places where the steep walls did not allow vegetation to gain a foothold. At every turn or widening of the road, I stopped, endangering the passing vehicles, and stood on the edge of the rock, looking in all directions and taking pictures incessantly, as if my life depended on the number of photos.
The road on the north bank of the canyon – D952 – begins in the east in the town of Castellane and winds its way to Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, a magical town steeped in history and legend. It itself has been an ancient center for the ceramics industry since the Middle Ages.
South of the town stands the huge dam that encloses the entire river valley in an artificial lake, Lac de Sainte-Croix (“Lake of the Holy Cross”, 1973), which over the years has become a sports and nautical center, above the flooded remains of three villages, which have since been rebuilt on the banks of the artificial lake.
After driving over the dam itself, the southern road numbered D19, and then D71, surrounds the canyon on its southern side. Due to the direction of the sun, the orientation of the rocks, the height of the vegetation, and so many other reasons – the views are different, the sights are different, and it seems as if I am rediscovering an amazing piece of scenery I have never seen before.
A few words about the image: This is a scan of a slide taken on my trip in 1978, and I apologize for its poor quality (due to the years, and the scanning). This unique image is intended to illustrate the view of the mall and to provoke thought… What do parents do when their child throws the pacifier out the window?
How great was my surprise when, upon my return from vacation, excited, enthusiastic, and armed with dozens of photos – none of my local friends and acquaintances (the French, not tourists like me) knew what I was talking about! When they saw the photos, they couldn't believe that they had been taken within the borders of France.
Since then, a lot of water has flowed in the Verdon River, the Internet has already been invented, Google Maps has already shown us that it is possible to travel without leaving home, and yet, people are still surprised when I plan a trip for them that is just passing through. “Where are you sending me?”, “What is there to see there?” – these are the phrases that are repeated over and over again. And I remain silent, and only say “Go. Talk to me when you get back.”
Quite a few communities are scattered along the canyon, near and far from it. Some are typical agricultural communities, and others make a living from tourism businesses at the canyon's various sites.
Moustiers Sainte Marie – the jewel in the crown of the Verdon Canyon
A special feature of this landscape is the magical village of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, founded in the 5th century by a group of monks who came to seek solitude. The village itself developed and became a significant settlement in the 11th century (1052), and from there the knight Blacas set out to participate in a crusade in the Holy Land, was captured by the Mamluks in 1249, and upon his return hung a golden star on a chain hanging above the village, between two mountain peaks.
According to local tradition, an Italian priest arrived in the village, probably in the mid-17th century, and taught a local potter how to make pottery from a special clay he found in the area, as well as a characteristic white enamel glaze. Since then, the custom has spread throughout the village and the village has become famous throughout France for its special ceramics industry and even has a unique blue color, known as “Bleu de Moustiers” (“Moustiers Blue”).
In conclusion… go. Talk to me when you get back.
Some logistical tips for your trip to Verdon Canyon
- In order to discover everything that Verdon Canyon has to offer, you need to spend at least a few days there. Therefore, it is highly recommended to live in the area and save quite a bit of travel. If you take my advice, you will find several recommended places to stay in the article. Recommended hotels, apartments and villas in Verdon Canyon.
- Needless to say, it is not really recommended to try to travel to Verdon Canyon using public transportation, so it is highly recommended to rent a car. In the article Car rental in France You will find recommendations for sites where you can find quality cars for rent at reasonable prices.
- If you intend to travel to other places in Provence, after you finish walking through the Verdon Canyon, you are welcome to enterProvence page on the website.
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