Saint Paul de Vence – the artists' village of the Riviera

I admit and confess, the first time I heard about Saint-Paul de Vence was when I listened to the lovely song Ma môme by Jean Perret.

It says there:

On va pas à Saint-Paul-de-Vence
We spend all our holidays
In Saint-Ouen

Or in Hebrew:

We don't go to Saint-Paul-de-Vence, we spend our holidays in Saint-Ouen (a suburb of Paris).

Since Jean Perret's romantic poem is about a working-class couple, I was sure that Saint-Paul-de-Vence was a place where the high society of France And I immediately imagined a beach, luxurious hotels, and women dressed in Dior and Chanel from head to toe.

I was wrong. Saint-Paul-de-Vence is not a town on the southern coast of France, like Saint-Tropez, but an ancient village. True, it has a lot of chic, like many places on the French Riviera, but it stems mainly from its history and especially from being one of the favorite villages of artists in the 19th and 20th centuries.

The more I read about the place, the more my curiosity about it grew, and in July 2023 I finally had the opportunity to visit it as part of a press tour I conducted as a guest of the Ministry of Tourism. French Riviera.

In this article, we will take a tour of this magical village together, discover its history, which spans more than 1,000 years, the places that should not be missed, and of course, I will not forget to provide you with all the tourist information you need to plan your trip to this charming place.

So let's put on comfortable walking shoes and get going.

The history of Saint-Paul-de-Vence

Saint-Paul-de-Vence is situated on a rocky hill between the Mediterranean Sea and the French Alps. Thanks to its strategic location, the Counts of Provence built a castle on the top of the hill and a church next to it (Saint Michel du Puy). In 1285, the Count agreed Provence Giving the village the right to host a fair on its territory, which turned the small village into a thriving settlement.

In 1388, following the transfer of the Count's territories Nice (Nice) Under the rule of the Count of Savoy, Saint-Paul-de-Vence became a territory under his control, as it was under the control of the Count of Nice. Its strategic location, right on the border between the Counts of Savoy and the Counts of Provence, which belonged to the King of France, meant that the rulers of the village did not stop fortifying it. Even today you can see the thick walls that protected the village from the 14th century and you can even visit the Vence Gate, which survived from those days.

During the reign of Francis I (reigned 1-1515), Saint-Paul-de-Vence continued to be a strategic destination, due to its proximity to the Italian peninsula. After passing through several hands, the King of France decided to upgrade the village's fortifications and during the construction the village even hosted Francis I himself.

If the 16th century is remembered in the village's history as a period of wars (initially the wars between the King of France and the Habsburgs and later brutal religious wars between Catholics and Protestants), then the 17th and 18th centuries are considered a period of prosperity and prosperity for two reasons.

The first reason is that, as part of the Catholic belief that if they just made their churches more beautiful, all Protestants would return to the fold of the church (a process known as the Counter-Reformation), the village's old church was upgraded. The second reason is that during this period, more and more of the noble families of Provence began to come to live in the village and built magnificent houses there (especially on rue Grande).

In 1860, Nice passed to French control and Saint-Paul-de-Vence lost its strategic importance. As a result, the French government decided to demolish the village walls in order to expand it. The village head Henri Layet (1824-1899) succeeded in 1872, after quite a few struggles, in preventing the evil of the decree, and the village bought the wall from the French government for 400 francs and managed to prevent the damage to its character. In 1945, the village walls became a historical monument, which prevents any chance of future damage to them.

Saint-Paul-de-Vence becomes an artists' village

The pastoral tranquility, combined with the magnificent landscape and architecture, brought a number of important artists to live in the village during the 20th century.

One of the first to discover the village thanks to its special lighting and colors was Paul Signac (1863-1935), the father of the school of pointillism (le pointillisme), a painting using dots, who painted several paintings of the village.

Later, Raoul Dufy (1877-1953) from the Fauvist school and the famous Jewish painter Chaim Soutine He also visited and painted there. They were later joined by another Jew – Marc Chagall (1887-1985) – about whom I will write shortly, and thus Saint-Paul-de-Vence became a sort of southern extension of Montparnasse District In Paris.

Quite a few of these artists loved living in the hotel. The Golden Dove, which belonged to Paul Roux, who decorated his hotel with paintings by some of the most important artists of the 20th century. Over the years, this hotel became a bastion of Parisian bohemia, and it was here that the famous couple Yves Montaigne and Simone Signoret lived during their wedding in 1951.

The couple met in August 1949, when Simone Signoret, who lived in the village, passed by the inn I wrote about, with her friend the poet Jacques Prévert (1900-1977), and there she met Yves Montand having dinner with his guitarist. Signoret, who had recently left her first husband, fell in love with Yves Montand, invited him to her home, and the rest is history.

The wedding of Montaigne and Signore marked the golden age of Saint-Paul-de-Vence, between 1950 and 1960. During this period, many famous directors and film personalities came here, mainly thanks to the poet and playwright Jacques Farber, who lived there.

Despite all the famous names I have mentioned, there is no one whose name is more associated with Saint-Paul-de-Vence than Marc Chagall. He returned to France in 1948, after living in the United States for several years and decided to move to the French Riviera, as it had become a major center of art.

He chose Saint-Paul-de-Vence, which was not far from where they lived. Matisse וPicassoFor nearly 40 years, Chagall continued to create and despite their geographical proximity to Picasso, they did not collaborate (although they certainly appreciated each other). In 1964, the famous modern art museum, Fondation Maeght, was built on the site, and in 2008, the painter Jean-Michel Folon finished decorating the chapel of the local church.

All of this created new artistic attractions, leading to a pilgrimage of art lovers that established Saint-Paul-de-Vence in the national consciousness as the “village of artists,” a status it enjoys to this day.

Maeght Museum (Fondation Maeght)

We will begin our visit at the museum, which is located outside the village itself, but is closely connected to it and constitutes the village's most important attraction.

The story of the place begins when Aimé Maeght (1906-1981), a famous art dealer from Paris, arrived in Saint-Paul-de-Vence with his wife and their son suffering from leukemia in the early 50s. Incidentally, Aimé Maeght also organized the first historical exhibition of Algerian painter Baya In his successful gallery. In 1953, Emma Magg's son succumbed to illness and died at the age of 11. The grieving couple tried to pick up the pieces and get back on their feet after the terrible time they had gone through.

Those who came to the Mag couple's aid were the artists living in and around the village, whose works his mother exhibited in his gallery. Georges Braque (1882-1963) suggested to his mother that they establish a museum to commemorate their son, and the couple harnessed all their energies to make the project a success.

The museum, designed by the Spanish architect Josep Lluís Sert i López (1964-1902), opened in 1983. The architect was also a painter and the husband of Cultural Icon Missia FilmIn parts. the third And the fourth In the series of articles about Misia Film, you can get to know him in more depth. In the museum you can find artworks by some of the greatest artists of the 20th century, including Georges Braque, Pierre Bonnard (1867-1947), Marc Chagall, Joan Miró i Ferrà (1893-1983), Giacometti (1901-1966) and more.

In addition, you will also find a garden designed by Giacometti, Miro and Braque, a plant maze and a pond with a mosaic of fish. Next to all of these is a chapel dedicated to Saint Bernard, in memory of the Mag couple's son, also named Bernard.

Address: 623 chemin des Gardettes

Link to order tickets

What is worth seeing in Saint-Paul-de-Vence itself?

Now that you know a little about the history of the place, it's time to set out and visit it. Note that as you walk through the village, you will discover about 20 signs that provide you with information about the various attractions. Each such sign has an NFC chip, which allows you to bring your mobile phone closer to the sign and watch videos describing the history of the specific place.

Here are a number of attractions that should not be missed.

The churches of Saint-Paul-de-Vence

As a known lover of churches, it was clear to me that I would not miss the village's houses of worship, and to my delight, I discovered several churches, each of which is definitely worth a visit because it is not "more of the same."

The Collegiate Church (L'ÉGLISE COLLÉGIALE)

This is the largest and oldest church in the village and was built in stages between the 14th and 18th centuries and therefore contains a mixture of different styles.

When you visit the church, you will find quite a few medieval parts. The most important part is the Chapel of Saint Clement, which was built in 1680. The reason for this is that in 1666 the church was “promoted” and became a collegiate church (a kind of cathedral but without a bishop), and as a result, it underwent an extensive upgrade in terms of its appearance.

The result is seen in the Saint-Clément Chapel, built by the Bernardi family, one of the most important noble families of Saint-Paul-de-Vence. Here you will find French Baroque art at its peak in the form of paintings and statuettes. It is definitely not worth missing.

Address: Church Square

Chapel of the White Penitents (LA CHAPELLE DES PÉNITENTS BLANCS)

This is a chapel built in the 17th century for the benefit of the Order of the White Penitents (named after the white robes they wore). This order was engaged in helping the sick, distributing food to the poor, and hosting pilgrims, and existed until 1920.

After the dissolution of the order, the chapel's condition deteriorated until a comprehensive renovation was decided upon in 2000. The renovation was carried out by the Belgian artist Jean-Michel Folon, and today the chapel displays his works in the form of stained glass windows, murals, and more.

Entrance ticket cost: 3 euros (as of July 2023).

Address: Church Square

Opening days and hours:

April 15 to October 15: Every day between 10:00-12:30 and 14:00-18:00.

October 15 – April 14: Every day, except Tuesday, between 10:00-12:30 and 14:00-17:00.

Saint Charles-Saint Claude Chapel (LA CHAPELLE SAINT CHARLES-SAINT CLAUDE)

This small chapel was built in the late 17th century by Charles Raymond and Claude Barcillon, and is therefore named after the saints for whom they are named.

Around 2010, artist Paul Conte painted a series of murals in the chapel, depicting the lives of Saints Saint Claude and Saint Charles, and you are welcome to enter and view them.

Address: Chemin Sainte-Claire

Chapel of Notre Dame des Gardettes

This chapel, located on the road leading to Tourrettes-sur-Loup, was first mentioned in 1476. Like the collegiate church, this chapel was significantly renovated during the 17th century, and is home to a number of Baroque works of art. Alongside them, you will also find a series of frescoes painted by two local artists between 1926 and 1930, depicting the life of Saint Mary.

Address: Chemin Sainte-Claire

The walls of Saint-Paul-de-Vence

It is a kilometer of walls and various fortifications, built by King Francis I during his wars in Italy. It is one of the first examples of this type of fortifications and hence its historical importance.

Unfortunately, the construction of the walls forced a significant portion of the village's residents to leave because their homes were destroyed to build the fortifications. On the other hand, the walls protected the village and today you can walk along them and enjoy the stunning view. Was it worth the price? You ask.

While visiting the fortifications of Saint-Paul-de-Vence, don't miss these places:

The dungeon

A donjon is a tower usually found at the heart of a castle and this donjon is the only remnant of the castle that stood here during the Middle Ages. This tower began to be built during the 13th century and a bell was added to it in 1443.

Quite a few famous people lived here, including:

• Ramon Berenguer IV (4-1198) Count of Provence and father of several women who became queens of France and England.
• Francis I, King of France.
• Sébastien Le Prestre de Vauban (1633-1704), the greatest military architect of France, who built quite a few fortresses during his lifetime.

Since the 18th century, the city hall has been located here, and it is here, in this building, that Yves Montaigne and Simone Signoret got married in 1951 (one of their witnesses was the famous poet and playwright Jacques Farber, about whom I wrote earlier).

Not far away, at number 2, you will find the house where Yves Montaigne and Simone Signoret lived.

Address: Town Hall Square

The Machicoulis Tower (LA TOUR À MÂCHICOULIS)

The word “Mishikuli” may sound like a Georgian surname, but it means a tower with openings in the floor from which rocks or boiling oil can be thrown at enemy soldiers (as far as I know, there is no equivalent Hebrew word that can be used).

The importance of this tower stems from the fact that it is one of the only remains of the village's medieval sea walls (as is known, most of the fortifications you will see were built by François I).

Address: West Rampart

THE TOUR OF ESPERON

This is a square tower with several floors, adjacent to the wall built by Francis I. The place was previously used to store gunpowder.

Address: Rue de la Prison

The Dauphin Bastion (LE BASTION DU DAUPHIN)

This fort, named after the title held by the heir to the throne of France, protected the northern entrance along with the royal fort. The purpose of both was to create a crossfire in the direction of the enemy to prevent them from advancing and breaking through the village gates.

You will find there an ancient cannon called Lacan, which was taken as loot from the Battle of Ceresole in 1544.

Address: New place

Boules Square (Place du jeu de boules)

This is a square dedicated to the game of Petanque, popular in Provence. It is a game in which players throw metal balls with the aim of getting them as close as possible to a small ball, and the one who succeeds in this task is declared the winner.

In this square, Yves Montand and Lino Ventura, two of the most famous actors in French cinema, played for many hours in total (Yves Montand is of course also a singer).

Beyond ball games, you'll find a café here (Café de la Place) that allows you to sit on its terrace and watch people playing pétanque while drinking pastis. On the other side of the square you'll find the famous hostelry La Colombe d'Or, which I mentioned in the chapter on the history of Saint-Paul-de-Vence.

Cemetery of Saint-Paul-de-Vence

As a big fan of cemeteries, I couldn't miss this place. The most famous celebrity buried here is Marc Chagall with his last partner Vava (1905-1993).

You will also find there the tomb of Emma and Marguerite Magg, who founded the Magg Museum, which I wrote about earlier. Both are buried there alongside their son Bernard, who died at the age of 11 and whose name became the trigger that created the important museum of Saint-Paul-de-Vence.

grand street

When leaving the Saint-Paul-de-Vence cemetery, don't miss this street, which contains a row of boutiques, where you will find various works of art by local artists.

Don't miss house number 71, which has existed since the 16th century, and house number 92, which belongs to the Alziary family, one of the village's respected families.

Grand Fountain Square (Place de la Grande Fontaine)

One of the main squares of the village, named after the fountain located there, which supplied water to the laundry building, which still exists today. It is one of the coolest places in the village thanks to the running water and stones and a great place to relax on a hot summer day.

Where is it recommended to eat in Saint-Paul-de-Vence?

Relative to a small village, there are quite a few restaurants and cafes, so everyone can find an address that suits them. Here are a few places that caught my eye:

THE GOLDEN DOVE

Since its opening, the legendary restaurant in Saint-Paul-de-Vence has been serving fresh, local food, including stuffed vegetables, baked tomatoes, anchovies, and other traditional Provençal dishes.

Address: 1 Place du Général de Gaulle

Link to the restaurant website

AT ANDREAS'S

A great place for a meal or just a drink to sip while you watch the magnificent view unfold at your feet. The menu is quite eclectic and includes sharing dishes alongside pasta, onion soup and foie gras. The prices are popular to reasonable.

Address: West rampart

La Fontaine

This restaurant is open every day from 10:00 AM to 22:00 PM (a very rare thing in France and very welcome in my opinion, as it allows you to eat whenever you want without being subject to the constraints of a foreign schedule).

The place is run by chef Jérôme Garello and you will find Mediterranean cuisine and business meals ranging from 19-35 euros (as of July 2023).

Address: 10 climb of the Castre

More restaurants

These were three restaurants that caught my eye, but there are other restaurants in the village. You can find information about them atLink this.

Accommodation in Saint-Paul-de-Vence

Want to feel a little like Yves Montaigne and Simone Signoret? Why not stay a few days in this romantic and magical village and make it your base for stargazing?

Here are some hotels that might suit you:

Domaine du Mas De Pierre

A 5-star hotel with a huge pool located in the heart of the olive groves of Saint-Paul-de-Vence. The place consists of 5 Bastides, ancient stone farms, each containing several rooms (76 rooms in total). Across the pool and garden you will find two excellent restaurants, the first (La table de Pierre) serving sophisticated international food while the second (Lis Orto) serves local food.

If you are traveling with children, you will be happy to know that the hotel complex has an amusement park called Jardin d'Alice, based on the story of Alice in Wonderland, and the hotel staff will even be happy to keep your children busy during the day (if you arrive there during school holidays).

More information and reservations

Hotel La Grande Bastide

A 4-star hotel located in an 18th-century building overlooking Saint-Paul-de-Vence. The rooms are decorated in Provencal style, and like many hotels of its level, you will also find a swimming pool and two balconies overlooking the view, where you can have breakfast.

More information and reservations

Les Messugues

If you are looking for a cheaper but equally luxurious option, you are welcome to check out the 3-star Les Messugues Hotel, located a 5-minute drive from Saint-Paul-de-Vence and near the Mag Museum.

Some rooms have balconies where guests can sit with a book and a glass of wine and take in the view. All of these are complemented by a restaurant called La Table des Messugues, which serves local home-cooked food in a friendly atmosphere.

More information and reservations

More hotels in Saint-Paul-de-Vence

If none of these hotels are available or suitable, you are welcome to enterLink this And find another line of excellent hotels in the area.