Normandy in the fall is probably one of the most beautiful places in the world. When the leaves change color, the air becomes crisp, and the August tourists return home – it’s the perfect time to go on a road trip. In September-October 2026, I took my parents on a 12-day trip around Normandy, dedicated entirely to celebrating my mother’s 80th birthday.
I packed my bags, rented a comfortable car, and put together an itinerary that combines must-see classics (yes, Mont Saint-Michel, I'm talking about you) with hidden gems that only insiders know about. Let's hit the road!
Where did I live during the trip?
Instead of skipping to a different hotel every night, I divided our nights into three strategic locations.
- Mont Saint Michel: I lived in a hotel. Mercure Mont Saint Michel. A wonderfully comfortable hotel that allows easy access to the island. If the hotel is not available for your dates, you can find plenty of great alternatives in my article on Hotels near Mont Saint Michel.
- Deauville (our main base camp): I lived in Yael and her brother's lovely apartment (To book the apartment, click here.). It was a super comfortable apartment, with a simply great location that I highly recommend. If this apartment is occupied and you would like to live in elegant Deauville like me, you are welcome to take a look at the article about Deauville hotels and vacation apartments.
- Rowan: I stayed at the hotel here. Paulette. Its location and breakfast were simply excellent, but a small note: the rooms were small for my taste. Therefore, if you book there, I highly recommend asking for the largest rooms they have to offer. Want to check out more options? You will find them in the article about Hotels in Rouen.
How did I get around? Car rental in Normandy
Since the vast majority of the places I visited were difficult (if not impossible) to reach by public transportation, I rented a car. I picked it up in Saint-Malo and returned it at the end of the trip in Rouen.
I made the reservation through Auto Shay and received excellent service. A great car with a great stereo system was waiting for me (and believe me, it was great fun to hear Barbara's songs in the background while I plowed the pastoral roads of autumnal Normandy).
Full itinerary: day by day
Day 1: Indulge in Saint-Malo and Mont-Saint-Michel in the evening
I started my first day of the trip with the conclusion of a different experience: a final day of thalassotherapy treatments (especially pampering treatments with seawater and seaweed) at the luxurious Grand Hôtel Des Thermes in Saint-Malo. If you want to know why I left feeling reborn, you can read about it in my full article about thalassotherapy in France.
From there, the friendly hotel staff took me and my parents to the Saint-Malo train station, I collected the car that would be used for our trip, and we set off for Mont Saint-Michel. I arrived in the evening, unpacked my bags at the hotel, and drove straight to the ancient fortress city. The timing was perfect: all the tourist buses had long since left. Catching Mont Saint-Michel in the evening and strolling through the deserted streets illuminated by magical light – it’s an experience that’s hard to describe in words.
Day 2: The Abbey of Mont Saint Michel and the Pearl of Coutances
In the morning I returned to Mont Saint Michel, this time to visit the famous monastery at the top of the mountain. Please note: you must book a ticket in advance, otherwise you will find yourself standing in endless lines or being left outside. I booked through the TIQETS website . For more information about the place, you are welcome to read my complete guide to Mont Saint Michel.
When we finished, we went back to the hotel, jumped in the car and drove to Coutances. It is one of the lesser-known places in Normandy, but it is definitely worth a stop of a few hours on the way. Discover its charm in my article about the town of Coutances.
In the evening I arrived in Deauville, to the apartment that would serve as my base for the next few days.
Day 3: Chic of Deauville and Trouville
I dedicated this day to driving in low gear and discovering the twin towns of Deauville and Trouville. I strolled among the elegant villas, breathed in the sea air, and along the way did some quality shopping that I would use for my next breakfasts in the apartment. Want to get to know them better? Read Yael Soliman's wonderful article: Deauville and Trouville, a Lovely Pair . And for those who also want to know what made Deauville the Olympian resort attraction of Normandy, we recommend Deauville: The Complete Guide to One Day in Normandy's Most Famous Resort Attraction.
Day 4: Secrets of Kings in Deraa and Awara
The day began with a relatively long drive from Deauville to Dreux, which is right on the eastern border of Normandy. Why travel all the way there? For one of the best-kept secrets: the royal chapel where the members of the Orléans family are buried. I prepared a fascinating story about them that awaits you in the article Dreux – the burial place of the last king of France.
After the tour, I had lunch (which was perfectly reasonable but not something we would write Michelin about back home), and continued to the city of Évreux to visit its two beautiful churches. A surprising city that I highly recommend reading about in the article: Évreux – Normandy’s best-kept secret.
Day 5: The Cliffs of Etretat and Pecan Liqueur
A morning of breathtaking nature. I went to Étretat to hike the dramatic cliffs. I’ll be honest: the town itself felt very commercialized and less than charming to me, but the views from the cliffs – which reminded me a lot of the island of Guernsey – were worth every moment. More details await you in the article Étretat – A Coast of Mystery and Magic . And for those who are also interested in the historical side of these magnificent cliffs, we recommend Étretat: History Carved in Rock.
In the afternoon I continued to Fécamp, with the aim of visiting the famous Benedictine Palace (Palais Bénédictine). Friends, I was really pleasantly surprised! The palace is beautiful, the artwork is impressive, and the tour of the distilleries of the famous liqueur (including tastings, of course) was simply wonderful. I summarized everything in the article Fécamp: A magical port city and a liqueur not to be missed.
Day 6: Magical Honfleur in one day
Honfleur is one of the most picturesque places in Normandy, and it deserves a whole day of its own. I arrived in the morning and stayed until the evening. I visited two fascinating museums, the famous stave church, and of course the old port that inspired Claude Monet and many other impressionist painters (and of course I ate excellently). All the experiences and recommendations are summarized in the article Honfleur in one day.
Day 7: Caen – the city of Guillaume the Conqueror
Initially, I planned to dedicate two full days to the capital of Guillaume the Conqueror, but in the end I decided to settle for one day (to make time for the villages the next day). And despite that, the experience was great! I managed to visit almost all of the city's important attractions, I came back with lots of stories, and you can find all my tips in the article Caen: A Travel Itinerary in the City of Guillaume the Conqueror . And for those who want to delve deeper into its thousand years of history, I also recommend reading Caen: A Thousand Years of History, Love, and Rebirth in the Heart of Normandy.
Day 8: The Cider Route – Cambrai and Baron-en-Oge
As mentioned, I dedicated the day I saved in Cannes to traveling on a completely different route – the charming Cider Road . I wanted to discover two of the most beautiful villages in Normandy, and they did not disappoint.
Cambremer: A village known for its magical garden located nearby. Although it rained heavily almost the entire time (after all, Normandy in the fall), that didn’t stop me from walking through this paradise and taking spectacular photos. I warmed up with a wonderful lunch at a restaurant in the center of the village. Read more in the article Cambremer – Green Magic in the Heart of Normandy.
Beuvron-en-Auge: From there I continued to this magical village. I strolled through the workshops of local artisans and the alleys of the village until evening. I returned tired but very satisfied to Deauville. More about the village in the article Beuvron-en-Auge: The village that came back to life and became a work of Norman art.
Days 9-11: Finish in historic Rouen
On the 9th day, I said goodbye to Deauville, which had been so kind to me, and drove to Rouen – where I also returned my rental car. On the day of arrival, it was already afternoon and I didn't have time to do much, but fortunately, I had two more full days waiting for me in this rich city. I took full advantage of them to visit the famous cathedral, the Joan of Arc sites, and the ancient streets. I have compiled all the recommendations for the city in the article Rouen City Itinerary.
Day 12: Returning to Paris (and to reality)
That's it, the trip is coming to an end. I took a train from Rouen to Paris at noon (a strategic decision that saved me from waking up early), and in the morning I still managed to pop over to Rouen Cathedral for a few final photos. I easily booked my train tickets through the OMIO website.
This is where my wonderful Norman adventure ends, and my Parisian adventure begins. If you too are continuing on to the City of Lights and want to arrive prepared, you will find everything you need to know in my complete Paris guide.
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