In September 2025, as part of a magical family trip to Normandy, I first set foot in Honfleur. I won't lie, I didn't expect to fall in love like this. But from the first moment, when the old port appeared before my eyes with its tall, narrow wooden houses reflected in the water, I knew I had arrived at a special place.
Honfleur is not just another pretty port town; it has a soul, a story, and a charm that is hard to put into words. It is a place where rich maritime history meets a vibrant art world, and together they create an atmosphere that is second to none. That is why I decided to create this guide for you, so that you too can experience this magic to the fullest.
Why is it worth getting to know the history of Honfleur before your trip?
I always say that you can't truly understand a place without knowing its story. In Honfleur, that statement is doubly true. History here is not confined to museums; it breathes and kicks in every alley, every old wooden house, and every paving stone.
To appreciate the beauty of the old port, it is worth knowing that it was an ambitious project of King Louis XIV (Louis XIV 1638-1715). To understand why the city became the capital of Impressionism, you need to know the story of its economic decline, which kept its architecture authentic and attracted artists.
And to feel the spirit of adventure, it is important to remember that this is where explorer Samuel de Champlain (1567-1635) set off on his famous journey to found the city of Quebec. So that I don't turn this article into a long history lesson (and there is so much to tell!), I have prepared a separate and in-depth article for you on
The fascinating history of Honfleur . I highly recommend reading it before your trip, it will simply enhance your experience.
One-day itinerary: What to do and see in Honfleur?
Here is my suggestion for a one-day itinerary that will allow you to experience the best of Honfleur at a leisurely and enjoyable pace. Of course, Honfleur is packed with so many hidden gems, picturesque alleys and fascinating museums that even if you decide to spend two or three days there, you will never get bored. But if you are short on time, this itinerary will ensure that you don’t miss the city’s must-sees, combining history, art, cuisine and simply soaking up the unique atmosphere that is unrivaled anywhere else in France.
The Old Port (Vieux Bassin)
Start your morning in the beating heart of the city. The old port of Honfleur is an unforgettable sight, and one of the most fascinating and picturesque places in all of France. The history of this beautiful pond, formerly called the “Inner Pond”, is closely intertwined with the development of the French Empire and its naval power.
The appearance you see today is the result of massive expansion works completed in 1681, under the orders of Jean-Baptiste Colbert (1619-1683), the legendary Minister of Finance and Navy of Louis XIV. Colbert understood Honfleur's strategic potential and ordered the demolition of part of the ancient city walls to expand the port, allowing larger merchant ships to dock here safely, protected from the turbulent tides of the English Channel.
As you stand on the quay, take a moment to notice the dramatic difference between the two banks. On one side is the Quai Saint-Etienne, home to the old stone church of Saint-Etienne, now a maritime museum. But what will really steal your attention is the other side – the Quai Sainte-Catherine. Here are rows of tall, narrow houses, five to seven stories high, huddled together as if they were supporting each other to keep from falling into the water.
Why are they so narrow? The reason is purely economic. In the old days, property tax was calculated according to the width of the house’s frontage facing the street or the port. The clever residents of Honfleur found a loophole in the law: they built houses with a very narrow frontage, but compensated for this by building in height and depth. Furthermore, notice that the facades of many houses are covered with dark slate (ardoise) panels. This is not just an aesthetic choice, but a necessary and ingenious protection against the strong winds, salt and rain of the Normandy climate. The slate served as a kind of architectural “raincoat” that protected the wooden structures from decay and preserved them for centuries.
Sit at one of the many cafes on the quay, order a coffee and a croissant, and just let the magic sink in. Watch the small fishing boats and pleasure boats gently sway, and listen to the laughter of the seagulls. This is the perfect place to start feeling the unique rhythm of Honfleur.
Honfleur's special light, the same light that reflects off the harbor waters and creates mesmerizing plays of color between sky, water, and slate houses, is what has made this place a magnet for artists from all over the world since the 19th century. As you sip your coffee, try to imagine the great Impressionist painters, such as Claude Monet, Gustave Courbet, or Johann Jungkind, sitting in the exact same spot where you are now, setting up their easels, and trying to capture the fleeting moment and the movement of the clouds with quick brushstrokes.
Watch the fishing boats, some of which still go out every morning to catch the local shrimp and plump oysters, and the white pleasure boats. This combination of past and present, of manual maritime labor and luxury tourism, is the city's true secret.
A recommendation for lunch not far from the old port
If you happen to want to have lunch (and that’s what we travel to France for), I highly recommend staying away from the first line of restaurants that surround the port itself. Honfleur, like any sought-after tourist gem, suffers from a fair share of “tourist traps” on the main quays – places where you pay mostly for the view and get mediocre food at exorbitant prices.
The Normans are known for their fine and rich cuisine, based on fresh ingredients, generous amounts of butter, heavy cream, juicy apples, and of course – seafood just pulled from the water. To miss this experience because of a tourist restaurant would be a historic mistake. I did so and discovered the “l'Escale” restaurant, a short walk from the port, which was not bad at all, and even surprised me very positively thanks to its authentic atmosphere and cordial service, things that are sometimes missing in more mass restaurants.
One of the dishes that immediately caught my attention (and you can see it in the photo I took) was their Gravlax. Although Gravlax is usually associated with Scandinavian cuisine, Normandy's history is intertwined with that of the Vikings (the northerners, the Normans, who gave the region its name). The quality of the fish in Honfleur makes every fresh fish dish a real feast for the palate.
The dish at the restaurant was simply perfect: the fish was fresh, buttery soft, and accompanied by a local Normandy touch of subtle seasoning and a balance of acidity that emphasized the flavor of the fish without overpowering it, alongside fresh, crunchy bread that you can't stop eating. This is a great example of how a good family restaurant knows how to take excellent ingredients and present them in a simple yet winning way. I recommend pairing the meal with a glass of chilled, sparkling Normandy cider (Cidre bouché), which perfectly balances the fattiness of the fish.
Restaurant information:
Address: 3 Rue de la Ville.
Opening hours: The restaurant is open every day of the week (Monday to Sunday) in two shifts:
- Lunch: 12:00 – 14:00
- Evening: 19:00 – 21:00
Link to the restaurant website
The Lieutenant's House (La Lieutenance)
At the end of the harbor, an impressive stone structure stands proudly – the Lieutenance (Commander’s House). This vast, fortified structure is not only beautiful to look at; it carries with it stories spanning centuries.
This is actually the last important remnant of the city’s medieval fortifications, which were designed to protect it from English invasions (who always lurked across the canal). Originally, the structure was called the “Rouen Gate” (Porte de Rouen), because the road leading to Rouen, the capital of Normandy, started from here. After the walls were demolished in the 17th century on the orders of Colbert, this structure survived because it had previously served as the official residence of the king’s representative, the “Lieutenant” (lieutenant or commander), who supervised all the movement of ships and goods entering and leaving the port.
It is impossible to talk about the Commander's House without mentioning one of the most glorious chapters in Honfleur's history: the Age of Discovery and the explorers.
It was from this very dock that many ships set sail for the New World, in search of wealth, spices, and new territories for the French crown. The most famous of these was Samuel de Champlain, who in the spring of 1608 set sail from Honfleur with his famous ship “Le Don de Dieu” (Gift of God), and crossed the Atlantic Ocean on a daring journey that ultimately led to the founding of the city of Quebec in Canada.
As you pass under the ancient stone gate, imagine the brave French sailors saying goodbye to their families as they embark on months-long journeys into the unknown.
The building recently underwent extensive restoration work between 2021 and 2023, and is now open to the public and serves as an advanced interpretation center (Centre d'Interprétation) for the city's architectural and maritime heritage. The exhibitions inside combine video and interactive means that tell the story of Honfleur through the ages. Don't miss the ascent to the upper balconies of the building, from where you can enjoy a spectacular 360-degree panoramic view of the entire port, the black slate roofs and the wide estuary of the Seine River that flows right here into the sea.
Unfortunately, I accidentally arrived on Tuesday (the day the place is closed) and therefore I couldn’t “report to you from the field.” I hope you won’t make my mistake, and in the meantime, if you want to see what the place looks like from the inside, you can watch this short video:
Saint Catherine Church (Église Sainte-Catherine)
A short walk from the port, as you cross the bustling alleys and follow the scent of ancient wood, you will find one of the most amazing, surprising and unique architectural gems in all of France. The Church of Sainte-Catherine is not just any church, but the largest wooden church in the entire country, and one of the oldest and best-preserved wooden buildings in Europe. The history of its construction is a fascinating testament to the spirit of survival of the people of Honfleur.
To understand why such a massive wooden church was built, one must go back to the 15th century, at the end of the bloody Hundred Years' War with the English (1453). After years of conquest and destruction, the city of Honfleur returned to French hands, but it was battered, impoverished and ruined. The old stone church that had been there had been completely destroyed during the fighting.
The impoverished city dwellers did not have the financial resources to purchase and transport heavy building stones, and all the expert stonemasons (masonry) had disappeared or been killed in the war anyway. But they had one thing in abundance: dense forests (such as the Forêt de Touques) that provided fine oak, and an abundance of skilled shipbuilders (charpentiers de marine) who knew how to work with wood perfectly.
Step inside and look up at the ceiling. What do you see? Instead of intricate Gothic stone vaults, the church's ceiling is made of two huge wooden arches, which look exactly like two giant wooden ships turned upside down. This is not an optical illusion; the shipbuilders simply used the only construction techniques they knew.
They built the church as if they were building a ship, only in reverse. It is a moving, rare and authentic testimony to the way in which the sea life and faith of the people of Honfleur were inextricably intertwined. The first structure, the left nave, was built in the second half of the 15th century. In the 16th century, due to the rapid growth of the city's population, a second (right) nave was added to the side, giving the church its unique appearance of its double dome.
An amazing technical detail worth noting: no saws were used in the construction of this enormous wooden skeleton! The shipbuilders knew that using a saw would tear the wood fibers and allow water and moisture to penetrate, which would cause the structure to rot quickly (especially in Normandy's rainy climate). Instead, they hewed all the wooden beams and shaped them exclusively using special axes, a technique that follows the natural fibers of the wood and seals them, and thus the structure has managed to survive for centuries.
Don't forget to also take a look at the wonderful Renaissance balcony that stands at the entrance to the church, with its delicate carved decorations, and smell the scent of candle wax merging with the scent of the ancient oak tree that has absorbed centuries of prayers.
- Opening hours and tickets: The church is open to the public daily from 9:00 a.m. to 19:00 p.m. Admission is free.
Sainte-Catherine Bell Tower (Le Clocher de Sainte-Catherine)
Directly opposite the church, stands a striking, pointed, dark wooden structure – the bell tower of the Church of Sainte-Catherine. The sight of a bell tower completely detached from the main church building is quite rare in France, and the reason for this is not architectural or aesthetic, but entirely practical and even life-saving.
The church builders realized that a tall bell tower, especially one located in a coastal area subject to winds and storms, was a natural target for lightning strikes. Since the entire church was made of wood, a lightning strike on the tower attached to the church would inevitably cause a huge fire that would consume the entire enormous structure in minutes. Therefore, to protect the precious wooden structure and the crowd of worshippers, it was decided to build the bell tower at a safe distance on the other side of the square.
The tower consists of a solid base made of massive oak beams (to support the enormous weight of the bronze bells), while its pointed and ornate roof is covered with small tiles made of chestnut wood (bardeaux de châtaignier). The choice of chestnut wood had a brilliant reason: this wood is very rich in natural tannins that repel spiders, parasitic insects and other wood pests, which has helped to preserve the roof intact to this day.
In the distant past, the sound of the tower's bells was not only intended to call the faithful to prayer, but also functioned as a real acoustic beacon. On days of heavy fog, the ringing of the bells helped Honfleur's fishing boats navigate their way safely back to the harbor entrance. Today, the tower serves as an annex to the Eugene Bodin Museum (which we'll talk about in a moment) and displays a small but impressive collection of religious art and ancient wooden sculptures from Normandy. If you're not lazy like me, then it's definitely worth climbing its narrow, creaky wooden steps to see the giant bells up close, and look out over the picturesque square from above and imagine the bustling market that has been held here for centuries.
- Opening hours and tickets: Opening hours vary depending on the season (in summer usually 10:00-12:00 and 14:00-18:00, closed on Tuesdays). Admission is for a nominal fee (about 3 euros) or is included in the combined museum ticket.
Afternoon: Following the artists who changed the face of art
Honfleur is not just a historic port and ancient ships; it is first and foremost a laboratory of color and light, the place where modern art was actually born. If there is one museum you must visit in Honfleur to understand the soul of the city, it is the museum dedicated to the man who brought them all to it. It is not just an art museum, it is the deep love story between a city and its painters.
Eugène Boudin Museum
The museum, located in Erik Satie Square, is largely dedicated to the city's native, the painter Eugène Boudin (1824-1898). Boudin was not born into a noble family but was the son of a simple sailor (deck boy), a fact that made his connection to the sea natural and deep.
As a young man, Bodin opened a small shop selling stationery and picture frames in the neighboring city of Le Havre, and used to display paintings by famous painters who passed through the area, such as Troyon and Jean-François Millet, in the shop window. They recognized the hidden talent of the young Bodin who worked in the shop, and encouraged him to study painting professionally.
Bodin left everything, became a painter, and is today considered one of the most important precursors of the Impressionist movement, who was called by the legendary painter Camus Corot with the obligatory title: “King of the Sky” (“le roi des ciels”), thanks to his wonderful and virtuoso ability to paint the changing skies, heavy clouds, and plays of light of Normandy.
The most famous historical achievement and anecdote associated with Bodin is his fateful meeting with an 18-year-old boy named Claude Monet (1840-1926) in 1858. At the time, the young Monet was a cheeky and talented caricaturist who made a living by painting exaggerated portraits of the residents of Le Havre.
Boden was impressed by Monet's talent, but realized that cartoons were just a distraction, and convinced the young Monet to put down his pencils, leave the closed studio, and come paint with him outside, in the open air (en plein air). It is important to understand that in those days, painting in the open air was considered a real revolution, made possible, among other things, by the then-new invention: oil paints in metal tubes. Monet, who until then had not appreciated landscape paintings, was captivated by the magic of natural light. This meeting forever changed the course of Monet's life and the entire history of art. Monet himself later humbly admitted: "If I became a painter, I owe everything to Boden."
In the spacious and light-filled museum, you will find an impressive and comprehensive collection of spectacular pastel works and landscape oils by Bodin himself (especially known for his paintings of the bourgeois class vacationing on the beaches of Deauville and Trouville with their enormous crinoline dresses), early paintings by Monet, and works by other painters from the "Honfleur School" (who gathered at the famous "Saint-Simeon Farm" inn, which we will discuss in the hotel chapter) such as Johan Barthold Jongkind (1819-1891) and Gustave Courbet.
However, with all due respect (and there is respect) to Bodin and his friends, the painting I liked the most was actually by a relatively unknown French painter named Louis-Alexandre Dubourg (1821–1891). The painting is titled “Peasant Woman at Rest,” and something about the penetrating gaze of the peasant woman, resting for a few moments from her day’s work, combined with the very realistic painting technique, made me fall in love with this painting in particular.
Beyond the visual arts, the museum offers an entire and fascinating floor dedicated to Norman ethnography, with an incredible collection of traditional costumes, antique furniture, and the famous, tall lace hats (Coiffes) that Normandy women used to wear with pride. It is a wonderful combination of history, fashion, and high art.
- Opening hours and tickets: The museum is closed on Tuesdays and during some of the winter months (January-February). There are several types of tickets and combination tickets. I could not find tickets through the partner sites, so I recommend purchasing them directly on the site. Honfleur's museums.
Satie Houses (Les Maisons Satie)
After the romantic and pastoral beauty of the Boden Museum, get ready for a completely different experience – wild, avant-garde and perceptually jarring. Les Maisons Satie is no longer your typical biographical museum with framed pictures and long, boring text panels, but a surreal, musical and sensual journey into the feverish mind of one of the most eccentric and unique geniuses to emerge in France. The museum is dedicated to the composer and pianist Erik Satie (1866-1925), who was born right here in Honfleur to a French father and a Scottish mother.
Satie was a fascinating and enigmatic figure. He moved to Paris, played piano at the famous cabaret “Le Chat Noir” in Montmartre, became friends with Jean Cocteau, Picasso and Claude Debussy, and composed works that broke all the conventions of the period, the most famous of which are the “Gnossians” and the “Gymnopédies” so synonymous with a gentle Parisian melancholy (I assure you that even if the names of the works mean nothing to you, you probably know the melody).
But Satie was known not only for his music, but also for his extreme eccentricities. He founded his own church of which he was the only member, claimed to eat only “white food” (such as sugar, bones, fat, coconut, and bland eggs), and had an obsessive collection of umbrellas. He also became known as “Le Velvet Gentleman” after receiving a small inheritance and purchasing seven identical mustard-yellow velvet suits at once, which he wore everywhere for the rest of his life.
Visiting Satie's houses is an incredibly immersive and entertaining experience, combining his music, artistic performances, dramatic lighting, and visual effects designed by the best designers in France.
Upon entering the museum, you are given sophisticated audio headphones with infrared sensors that detect your location in space. Using these headphones, you are led from room to room, each space inspired by a work, a sarcastic quote, or a specific period in Satie's life.
You will see a mechanical grand piano that plays cabaret songs on its own, meet a giant pear with wings (a nod to his parody piece “Three Pieces in the Shape of a Pear,” which he composed after Debussy criticized him for his “shapeless” music), and step into optical illusions that clearly illustrate the worldview of an artist who was ahead of his time and is considered the father of minimalist and ambient music. This is a great and interactive way, suitable for children as well, to get to know the colorful (or, more accurately, velvety) character of the man.
- Opening hours and tickets: Like the Boden Museum, the place is closed on Tuesdays and during part of the winter. It is recommended to purchase tickets in advance on the website. Honfleur's museums.
Sweets not to be missed: Le Comptoir de Honfleur
One small and tasty thing before we move on: it's impossible to write a comprehensive guide to a French city in Normandy without devoting a significant portion to the local cuisine, especially sweets. If you follow me, you already know that I'm a big fan of fine French butter and, of course, chocolate.
After wandering the ancient alleys and absorbing high art, I highly recommend that you head to Rue des Lingots (exact address: 2-18 Rue des Lingots), and visit the crazy establishment called “Le Comptoir de Honfleur.”
From the outside, it looks like just another cute little candy store inside a historic building, but once you push the door open and step inside, a warm, intoxicating scent of melting chocolate, nougat, and rich caramel will immediately hit you and draw you in like magic. This is a true heaven on earth for all sweet tooths (and those who claim to only like “salty”).
This magical shop is designed in the traditional and authentic French style of a “compteaux” (a classic old-fashioned merchant’s counter), where all the sweets are not packaged in modern cardboard boxes, but arranged in mountains of spectacular and colorful temptations in wooden baskets or on rustic tables.
The concept here is simple, dangerous and ingenious at the same time: everything is sold by weight. You get a bag and just start loading up on all the goodies from the stalls. What will you find there? You can find the famous and soft caramels of Normandy (Caramels d'Isigny), which are lovingly made from the richest local butter and cream in France and mixed with coarse sea salt. You will also find a huge variety of traditional French nougat studded with fresh almonds and pistachios, soft fruit toffees in a huge variety of flavors, and artisanal (handmade) chocolates of uncompromising quality.
The owner is known for her friendliness and warm hospitality (a rare advantage in touristy areas), and she is more than happy to explain the various delicacies to you and even let you taste some of the finest chocolates before you decide what to take home.
But the real highlight of the place, and the thing you simply must (but must!) try, is a sweet with a name that is a bit… how shall we say… less than appetizing at first glance: “Seagull droppings” (Crottes de Mouette). Don’t worry, this is not a real product of the noisy birds that swarm the harbor, but rather a fine Norman humor: these are incredibly delicious white and dark chocolate truffle balls, often filled with caramel or combined with blueberries that give them a bluish-oval shell that is suspiciously and hilariously reminiscent of the “origin.”
This is a great local joke, and they simply melt in your mouth and make one of the most fun and delicious gifts you can bring to family and friends in the country. Another must-try candy that is worth every calorie is the candied orange peels, which are fleshy and juicy, coated in a generous layer of rich dark chocolate that balances the sweetness of the orange perfectly. In short, get your taste buds ready (and your wallet too, because it's very hard to stop once you start filling the bag).
Recommended guided tours in Honfleur
Sometimes, the best way to discover a city is through the eyes of a local. If you want a slightly different experience, here are some tours I found and really liked the concept of:
- Private tour of Honfleur in a vintage sidecar: If you are looking for a unique and unforgettable experience, this is the tour for you. You will explore the city's alleys and surrounding hills in the most stylish way possible. The tour includes stops at the Notre Dame de Grasse Chapel and the Mont-Joli viewpoint. For more details and to book the tour, click here.
- Walking tour of Honfleur's must-see sites: This is an excellent option for those who want to get a comprehensive and exhaustive overview of the city's main sites accompanied by a professional guide. The tour lasts about an hour and a half and passes through the old port, the salt warehouses, and the Church of Saint Catherine. For more details and to book the tour, click here.
Practical information: parking and public transport in Honfleur
Parking: Parking in the historic center of Honfleur can be a nightmare, especially on weekends and market days. My recommendation is to skip the search and go straight to one of the large, well-maintained parking lots at the entrance to the city:
- Parking du Bassin de l'Est: Large parking lot with an affordable daily rate.
- Naturospace parking: Free parking, but fills up quickly. Requires a 10-15 minute walk to the center.
- You can pay for parking using the app. EasyPark, which makes things much easier.
Public transport: Honfleur does not have a train station. The most convenient way to get there by public transport is via the regional bus network NOMAD . Lines 111 and 122 connect Honfleur to the larger cities in the area such as Le Havre, Deauville and Caen, which have train stations. Within the city there is a small bus network called
Hobus , which can be useful if your hotel is far from the center.
Accommodation in Honfleur: Hotel recommendations that will make your vacation perfect
Although I stayed in a lovely apartment in Deauville this time , I think it's really recommended to stay in Honfleur itself. There's nothing like taking an early morning stroll by the harbor before all the tourists arrive, or enjoying a leisurely dinner and a short walk back to the hotel. Honfleur is also a perfect base for trips in the area, such as the Landing Beaches or the Cider Route.
Here are 5 hotels that I particularly liked, in a variety of styles and budgets:
Luxury hotels (5 stars)
La Ferme Saint Simeon Spa – Relais & Chateaux
This is not just a hotel, it is a pilgrimage site. Here, in what was once a simple inn, the Honfleur School was born and the foundations of Impressionism were laid. Today it is a luxurious 5-star hotel with a spa, gourmet restaurants and a breathtaking view of the Seine estuary. A once-in-a-lifetime experience for lovers of art, history and pampering.
To check availability and prices, click here.
Hôtel Saint-Delis – La Maison du Peintre – Relais & Châteaux
A gem of a hotel, housed in a house that once belonged to the painter Henri de Saint-Delis. An intimate and luxurious boutique hotel with only 9 suites, offering impeccable service, a peaceful interior garden and a perfect location in the heart of the old town. The perfect place to escape the hustle and bustle of everyday life and feel like a Norman nobleman.
To check availability and prices, click here.
Excellent hotels (3-4 stars)
Les Maisons de Léa & Spa – Radisson Individuals
A charming hotel made up of several historic buildings, including a former salt warehouse, right opposite the Sainte-Catherine church. The location is simply perfect, the rooms are tastefully decorated and the spa is a great bonus after a day of walking. The ideal combination of charm, location and comfort.
To check availability and prices, click here.
Hotel Le Dauphin
Want to sleep in a postcard? This is the hotel for you. Housed in three authentic 17th-century wooden houses, the hotel offers a true Honfleur experience. The rooms may not be huge, but they are full of character and the staff are highly praised, as is the excellent breakfast.
To check availability and prices, click here.
Charming hotel at a comfortable budget
ibis budget Honfleur Centre
The smart and practical choice. Don't expect the charm of the old wooden houses here, but you will get fantastic value for the price: a winning central location within a few minutes' walk of the port, clean and modern rooms, and everything you need for a comfortable stay. Perfect for those who prefer to spend their money on experiences and good food, and are looking for a comfortable and clean base to return to at the end of the day.
To check availability and prices, click here.
Want to see more accommodation options in Honfleur? You can find all the recommended hotels in the city here.
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