Deauville and Trouville: The story of two “sisters” on the Normandy coast

I'm planning a long trip to Normandy in September-October 2025, and this time I've decided that I'm going to make Deauville my base from which to discover all the wonders of this region (if you want to know where I'll be staying Go to this link). To come prepared, and to make the most of my stay there, I decided to delve deeper into the history of Deauville and its eternal neighbor and rival, Trouville. What I found was such a fascinating story, full of passions, art, and upheavals, that I felt compelled to share it with you.

You probably know my iron rule: to truly enjoy a place in France, you should know its history. So to feel the unique pulse of each of these magical towns, you can't just stroll along the promenade. You have to know their story. And oh, what a story it is! A story about two sisters, one bohemian, the other glamorous. A story about rivalry, art, love and passion. This article is the perfect preparation for your visit, and mine too.

Before you start reading, if you don't have enough time to read about 2,500 words, you are welcome to take a look at this short video that summarizes the article and then scroll to the end where you will find links to "practical" articles about what to see in these two towns and where to live there.

Trouville, “Queen of the Beaches” and the Muse of Artists

Our story begins, as all good stories do, with the eldest sister, the one who was there first. Before Deauville was even a dream in a duke's head, Trouville was there, alive and breathing. She was the beating heart of the region, the place everyone looked up to.

The Discovery: From a Fishing Village to the Bohemian Coast of Paris

In the Middle Ages, Trouville was nothing more than a small, peaceful fishing village, nestled safely at the mouth of the Toc River. For centuries, life proceeded at a slow pace, according to the tides, and no one imagined the revolution that was about to occur.  

Everything changed in 1825. A young painter from Paris named Charles Mozin (1806-1862), Looking for new landscapes, he came across Trouville by chance. He immediately fell in love with the village's wild, unpolished charm, its endless sandy beaches, and its colorful fishing boats.  

Mouzon returned to Paris with paintings full of light and life, which introduced Trouville to the world. In his paintings, he documented simple life, fishermen returning from the sea, and dramatic landscapes. The paintings were exhibited in the prestigious salons of Paris And they aroused enormous curiosity. Suddenly, everyone was talking about “Truvil.”  

Following Moussin, artists and writers began to flock to Trouville, attracted by its authenticity and scorning the artificial prestige of other resorts such as Dieppe. Among them was the great writer Alexandre Dumas (1802-1870), who humorously wrote that “Trouville, in terms of latitude, was then more or less unknown than Robinson Crusoe’s island.” In a very short time, Trouville became an important tourist destination.

Those responsible for this transformation were, of course, the artists. Painters like Eugène Boudin (1824-1898) And Claude Monet (Claude Monet 1840-1926) They set up their easel there, fascinated by the changing light of NormandyThey not only painted the landscape, but also the new society that began to frequent the beach – elegant women in crinoline dresses and parasols, who became a symbol of the Belle Epoque. Thus, in a fascinating way, art fed tourism, and tourism, in turn, provided a new subject for art.  

Forbidden Love on the Shore: Gustave Flaubert and the Passion That Shaped His Life

But Trouville's most fascinating story, the one that made her part of world literary history, is a love story. An impossible love, which forever changed the life of one of the greatest writers she knew. France.

The fateful meeting with Eliza Schlesinger

In August 1836, a shy 14-year-old boy named Gustave Flaubert (1821-1880) was walking on the beach at Trouville with his family. Suddenly, he saw a beautiful girl, Élisa Schlésinger (1810-1888), a 26-year-old married woman and mother of a baby. In that moment, his world was turned upside down.  

Years later, he would describe this moment in his writings: “I was frozen in amazement… I felt my heart for the first time, I felt something mystical, strange, like a new sense… I loved.” Legend has it that the wind blew her scarf away, and he ran to pick it up and handed it to her, trembling all over. It was at this moment that the greatest and only passion of his life was born.  

The story was particularly ‘spicy’ for the time. Elise was known as “Madame Schlesinger”, but in fact was still officially married to her first husband, an army officer who had disappeared in Algeria. She lived with the music publisher Maurice Schlesinger, and only years later, after the death of her first husband, were they able to marry. For the young Flaubert, she was the embodiment of beauty, mystery and forbidden love.  

The Birth of Madame Arnaud: How Trouville Entered World Literature

This love, never fulfilled, haunted Flaubert throughout his life. It became an obsession, a source of inspiration, and an open wound. Trouville and the character of Elise Schlesinger became an inseparable part of his emotional and creative baggage.

Decades later, when he wrote his masterpiece, L'Éducation Sentimentale, he poured all his memories and emotions into the unforgettable character of Madame Arnaud, the unrequited love of the book's hero, Frédéric Moreau. Thus, that chance encounter on the beach at Trouville became one of the founding stories of modern literature.  

In a letter he wrote to Elise in 1872, many years after the meeting, he reveals the depth of his feelings:

Against this radiant background, where precious ghosts stretch out their arms to me, the most striking figure is yours! Yes, yours. Oh, poor Trouville!...

Belle Epoque splendor: The Black Rocks Hotel and its famous guests

Trouville reached its peak of fame during the Belle Époque, the beautiful period of the late 19th century. A clear symbol of this period is the Hôtel des Roches Noires, a luxurious palace inaugurated in 1866 and immediately becoming the center of social life for the “Queen of the Coasts.”  

But most of all, the hotel became a literary temple. Marcel Proust (Marcel Proust 1871-1922) was a regular guest, coming here with his grandmother to breathe the sea air. The hotel and its atmosphere served as a direct inspiration for the fictional resort town of Balbec in his monumental book In Search of Lost Time.  

Decades later, another writer, Marguerite Duras (Marguerite Duras 1914-1996), bought an apartment in a hotel-turned-apartment building, right next to the rooms where Proust stayed. She spent her summers there until the end of her life, writing about the “divine charm” of Trouville. Thus, that building became a symbolic meeting point between two of the greats of 20th-century French literature.  

Deauville, a dream of a duke born from the sands

While Trouville developed organically, driven by artists and bohemians, the story of its younger sister, Deauville, is the complete opposite. Deauville was not grown, it was created. It was not discovered, it was invented. It was born from the vision of one man, a powerful, ambitious and uninhibited man, who decided to create a “kingdom of elegance” out of nothing.

“A kingdom of elegance will be built here”: The vision of the Duke de Mornay

To understand Deauville, one must first know the man behind it: Charles, Duc de Morny (1811-1865). Morny's story is a novel in itself, full of secrets, intrigue, and glamour.

The Emperor's half-brother and great man of the world

Mornay was the embodiment of Napoleon III's Second Empire. He was a larger-than-life figure: a shrewd politician (President of the Chamber of Deputies), a daring businessman and speculator, a Parisian dandy, an avid fan of horse racing and theater, and a key figure in the 3 coup that brought Napoleon III to power.  

His birth was carefully concealed and he was registered under fictitious parents. This background shaped him as a man accustomed to operating behind the scenes, using his connections, and thinking big.  

Turning a swamp into a paradise for the aristocracy

The story begins in the summer of 1858. The Duc de Mornay was invited to Trouville by his personal physician, Dr. Joseph Olliffe (1808-1869), who was also the manager of the local casino. Mornay stood on the shore of Trouville, looked east across the Toc River, and saw… nothing. Just marshes and desolate sands.  

But where others saw desolation, Mornay saw opportunity. Then he declared what would become his famous sentence: “What openness and what beauty! Let us build a kingdom of elegance here.” He teamed up with Dr. Olif, the banker Armand Donon (1818-1902) and the architect Desle-François Breney (1804-1891). Together they bought 2400 hectares of marshland for 800,000 gold francs.  

What happened next was nothing short of an engineering and economic marvel. In just four years, between 1860 and 1864, an entire city rose from the sands. Workers drained the marshes, paved wide, straight streets inspired by Baron Haussmann's plan for Paris, and built infrastructure at a dizzying pace. It wasn't just a resort; it was a statement of power and wealth of the Second Empire.  

Hippodrome before church: the birth of the horse capital

Nothing symbolizes the character of Deauville more than the fact that its hippodrome was built לפני The church. The Hippodrome de la Touques was inaugurated in August 1864, and immediately became the beating heart of the new city.  

Morney, himself a jockey and racehorse owner, understood that horse racing was the perfect magnet to attract the wealthy international elite he wanted to appeal to. It was an aristocratic pastime, a chance to be seen, to gamble, and to mingle in high society.  

At the same time, the other pillars of the “Kingdom of Elegance” were built: the railway line from Paris was extended to the city in 1863, cutting the travel time from the capital to just five hours. A luxurious casino opened in 1864, and a long wooden promenade called “La Terrasse” stretched along the coast. Deauville was ready to conquer the world.  

The Sisters' War: The Battle for the Crown of Normandy

With the founding of Deauville, the stage was set for the great drama: the battle between the two sisters for the title of “Pearl of the Normandy Coast.” It was a bitter rivalry, played out not only on the beaches and in the salons, but also in the casinos, racetracks, and fashion magazines.

Duel of Casinos and Luxury

Deauville’s beginnings were not smooth. The sudden death of the Duc de Mornay in 1865, and the fall of the Second Empire in the Franco-Prussian War in 1870, dealt a severe blow to the young city. Its aristocratic patronage disappeared, and it became what one writer called “an elegant corpse,” a beautiful but empty ghost town.  

For decades, Trouville, the “Queen of the Coasts,” continued to reign unchallenged. But then, at the beginning of the 20th century, a turnaround came. Deauville’s new mayor, Désirée Le Hoc, decided to revitalize his city. He made a genius move: he “stole” the successful manager of Trouville’s casino, a charismatic businessman named Eugène Cornuché (1867-1926), who was also the owner of the famous “Maxim” restaurant in Paris.  

Cornuchet was a visionary like Mornay. He understood that Deauville had to offer something that Trouville could not: modern, uncompromising luxury. He demolished the old casino and built in its place a new, magnificent and sparkling casino, which was inaugurated in 1912. Immediately after, he built two legendary luxury hotels: the Normandie (1912) and the Royal (1913).  

It was a declaration of war. The wealthy crowd, always looking for the next big thing, flocked to Deauville. Its new casino and luxurious hotels completely eclipsed those of Trouville. The balance of power had changed, and this time for good.  

The Crazy Years: Deauville becomes the 21st arrondissement of Paris

The 20s, the “Crazy Years” (Années Folles), were Deauville’s golden age. It became the ultimate symbol of liberation, pleasure and modernity after World War I. The writer Jean Cocteau (20-1889) coined the nickname that remains to this day: “the 1963st arrondissement of Paris.”  

Coco Chanel Liberates Women (and Invents Resort Fashion)

One of the key figures who shaped the spirit of the era in Deauville was none other than Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel (1883-1971). In 1913, she opened her first boutique outside of Paris in Deauville. She received the money for the investment from her lover and the love of her life, the charismatic English polo player Arthur “Boy” Capel (1881-1919).  

In this small boutique, Chanel revolutionized fashion. She saw wealthy women strolling along the beach in tight corsets and uncomfortable clothing and decided to set them free. Inspired by sailors’ striped shirts, “Boy” Capel blazers, and the need for practical clothing for modern life, she began designing elegant sportswear made from jersey fabric, a material that had previously been used for men’s underwear.  

It was a resounding success. Women fell in love with the new freedom it offered them. Years later, Chanel said, “My fortune is built on that old jersey I wore because I was cold in Deauville.” Her love story with Capel ended in tragedy when he was killed in a car accident in 1919. Legend has it that it was her grief that led her to make the little black dress a legitimate fashion item, saying that the whole world would mourn with her.  

In the article by Dr. Orna Lieberman, Missia Sert: Cultural Icon, Queen of ParisYou can read more about the high society between Paris and Deauville. Missia was a close friend of Chanel and a source of inspiration for Proust, and about this in parts two and three of the article.

Parties, gambling and stars

Deauville in the 20s was one big party. The new casino was packed with stars like the dancer Mistinguett (1873-1956) and the actor Sacha Guitry (1885-1957). In 1924, the famous wooden promenade “Les Planches” was inaugurated, which became the main runway for fashion and high society.  

The rivalry between the sisters did not lead to the destruction of one of them, but to the creation of two separate and complementary identities. Deauville became the capital of “paillet” (glitter), fashion and international glamour. Trouville, on the other hand, entrenched itself in its more authentic, artistic and familial identity. She continued to attract writers like Marguerite Duras, who sought her “divine charm” over her neighbor’s glamour. Thus, a perfect duality was created: the radiant sister and the soulful sister.  

From the ruins of war to the glamour of Hollywood

The story of Deauville and Trouville did not end in the 20s. Like all of Europe, they went through the upheavals of the 20th century, but they knew how to reinvent themselves and remain relevant even in the modern world.

The scars of the Belgian occupation and liberation

World War II put an end to the festivities. The Germans occupied both cities, shelled the hotels and casinos, and filled the beaches with fortifications and barbed wire in preparation for a possible Allied invasion. The dark years left their mark on both cities.  

Liberation came in August 1944. After heavy fighting in the area, it was the Belgian soldiers of the “Piron Brigade” who crossed the Tok River and liberated the cities. In their memory, the bridge connecting Deauville and Trouville is still called the “Bridge of the Belgians” (Pont des Belges).  

Rebirth: American Film Festival

After the war, Deauville again demonstrated its ability to reinvent itself. Under the leadership of the energetic mayor Michel d'Ornano (1924-1991) And the hotel and casino tycoon Lucien Barrière (1923-1991), the city was looking for a new way to differentiate itself.  

The turning point came in 1975 with the founding of the American Film Festival. It was a brilliant strategic move, linking Deauville directly to the glamour of Hollywood and securing it a place of honor on the international map. Since then, every September, the world's biggest movie stars have walked on "La Planche," and the tradition of dedicating beach huts in their names has become one of the city's most recognizable symbols.  

My personal recommendation

Have you read all the history and now it's time to travel? That's exactly why Yael Soliman, whose grandmother lived in Deauville for a significant part of her time, created the article 'Deauville and Trouville, a lovely couple'.

So where should you stay?

If you ask me, despite the charm of Trouville, I find Deauville a more convenient base, with a wider range of services and a lively atmosphere even in the evenings. I personally chose to stay in Yael Soliman and her brother's wonderful apartment, which is perfectly located and offers everything you need for a great vacation (not to mention that Yael and I have been friends for years and she even wrote Several great articles on my website).

You can find details about the apartment In this link.

And if you want to check out more accommodation options in Deauville, I have prepared for you, as always, A centralized page with all the most recommended hotels.