Normandy , in northern France, is the country's agricultural basin. Here, herds of cows are raised from which the best French cheeses are produced, as well as the rich butter so characteristic of French cuisine. And amidst all this agriculture, the region also developed a fruit growing industry, mainly deciduous - plums, peaches, pears and apples, the cultivation of which has been known here since the time of the Celtic tribes.
Beyond “regular” foods – cakes (here they invented – some say, mistakenly – an “upside down” apple cake, Tarte Tatin, decorated with rich cream), jams, stews – the French were able to develop drinks in the region based on grinding, crushing, squeezing, filtering and fermenting apples.
Cider (pronounced sidr) is apple juice that has undergone a fermentation process, similar to wine, in which some of the fruit sugar is converted into alcohol. The “soft” Cidre contains up to 3% alcohol and is delicate, sweet and not spicy. The “semi-dry” Cidre contains 3-5% alcohol. Cidre Brut (“raw, natural” cider, without alcohol-reducing processing and without filtration) contains over 4.5% alcohol and some even reach up to 7% alcohol.
The next stage in the distillation of the apple drink creates Calvados (“Calvados”. Most French people call it “Calva”). This is an apple brandy that has been produced in the region since time immemorial (almost. Its first written mention dates back to 1553). The drink is made from good quality cider to which up to 200 different types of apples have been added (in Normandy there are hundreds of apple varieties).
The result is distilled and aged in oak barrels for at least two years, until a chestnut-colored drink (like cognac) is obtained with an alcohol concentration of 40-50%. It is customary to age the drink in barrels, like cognac, and you can find bottles of Calvados that are 15, 20, 30 years old and even more. Strict and rigorous laws apply to the production and marketing of the drink, similar to wine, champagne and cognac.
How was the Cedar Road created?
Until the 70s, the Normandy region had a real problem. Mont Saint Michel, the beautiful coastline, and the seaside towns along it attracted thousands of tourists – but they did not reach the interior. The beautiful villages just a few kilometers from the coast did not benefit from tourism. In 1973, someone on the tourist board of the town of Houlgate, one of the most important tourist stops in the region, came up with an idea – to “draw” an internal hiking trail, inland, with a local theme that would attract travelers.
The model was, of course, The wine route opened in the Alsace region In the 50s (and later also inBordeaux wine regions), with the local theme – the apple. A number of typical villages were chosen, some with apple orchards and others with apple processing plants, including estates and wineries to create Normandy's flagship drinks: Cidre and Calvados.
The regional tourist board supervised the chosen route, inviting and eye-catching signs were erected at the entrance to the wineries that were open for visits (Visit), tastings (Degustation) and sales (Vente) and on May 25, 1975, “La Route du Cidre” was inaugurated.
The road is not long – only about 50 kilometers – but it is circular, scenic and charming, winding between apple orchards as far as the eye can see and picturesque villages, smaller and smaller. Officially, the road “begins” in the town of Cambremer and passes through the villages of Beuvron-en-Auge, Beaufour, Bonnebosq, Saint-Ouen-le-Pin and others, but it is of course possible to “board” it at any point.
Every year, at the beginning of the apple picking seasons, in spring, March-April, a large fair is held in Cambremer (a second, smaller harvest is also held in autumn, September-October) where the various producers “open tables” in the streets of the town and offer their wares to every visitor – Cheeses, Cidre, Calvados and also…. apples.
Places not to be missed
Cambremer
A small, picturesque village, home to the Huet family, who have been producing cider and Calvados here since 1865. If you come here on a Monday or Tuesday between April 1 and September 30, you can enjoy an organized tour of the family's estate surrounded by 30 hectares of apple orchards. You can also buy Calvados that has been aged for 41 years.
More information about the tours and cider tastings can be found atLink this.
BEUVRON-EN-AUGE AND BONNEBOSQ
BEUVRON-EN-AUGE is a charming village that won the “Most Beautiful Villages in France” competition and for good reason. You will find quite a few 17th-century houses here that combine stone and wooden beams, a style that characterizes Normandy. The most special building here is an impressive 15th-century manor house, which is located at the end of the village’s only street.
If you would like to visit another charming village in the area, it is highly recommended to stop in the village of BONNEBOSQ. It is slightly less beautiful than Beaubron, but it still has quite a bit of charm thanks to its ancient houses.
Chateau de Breuil
A charming palace surrounded by gardens, considered one of the finest Calvados production sites in France. It is advisable to arrive between 11:00 and 17:00 to enjoy the guided tour of the castle and its cellars.
And by the way, since the castle is located not far from the landing beaches, this is an excellent opportunity to include them in your trip. You can read more about them in Danny Ashkenazi's article. A travel itinerary in Normandy following the invasions.
Planning a trip along the Normandy Cider Route
If everything you've read makes you want to travel and hike the Normandy Cider Route, I'd be more than happy to build you a perfect trip tailored to your needs and interests. All you need to do is contact me via email at yossi.drory@gmail.com.
If you would like to plan the trip yourself, here is some logistical information that can help you:
How do we get there?
There are two main ways to get to Normandy from Israel, and both are wonderful.
The first is a direct flight toParis From there, take a train to Rouen or rent a car in the City of Lights and drive west to Normandy. If you choose this option, you can combine it with a trip to Paris before and/or after you arrive in Normandy, and of course, a stop at Giverny to enjoy Monet's wonderful house and garden.
Another option is to fly directly toNantes There you can take a car and travel around with it.Brittany Before we head to the Cedar Road in Normandy. Of course, you can combine the options, for example starting in Brittany and ending in Paris, all depending on the amount of time you have and your interests.
So if you haven't bought a plane ticket yet, you are welcome to read the This article. There you will find a list of the best sites for booking tickets. Flight to Paris Or Nantes and with their help you can find the cheapest and most comfortable flights.
Car Rental
It is not possible to take a trip between wineries and small villages without using a car because the buses in the area are quite rare and slow. Therefore, it is highly recommended. Rent a car in Paris Or Nantes. Another option that will save you driving is Take a train From Paris or Nantes to Rouen in Normandy and rent a car there. If you have decided to rent a car, you are welcome to read the article Car rental in France And there you will find tips and sites that will help you rent a car at a very friendly price.
Accommodation on the Cedar Road
The Cider Route is not particularly long and can be done most of it in one day. However, if you want to do it leisurely, you can stay in the area for a few days. You can also turn your accommodation into a base for star trips in Normandy and enjoy the peace and quiet that the villages on the Cider Route offer to those who decide to stop there for a few nights.
You can find excellent accommodations at the following links:
Another option is to live in Deauville, a charming seaside resort town, and make it a base for star tours, some of which will take you along the cider route.
If you decide to take my advice, I highly recommend: This apartment, which belongs to Yael Suleiman, who wrote, among other things, the article Deauville and Trouville, a lovely coupleIf the apartment is not available, you can find good vacation apartments and some not-so-bad hotels inLink this.