in short
- Direct flight: About four and a half hours from Israel, or two hours by TGV train from Paris.
- How long: Three days is enough, four for those who come for the food.
- The two routes: Old Lyon (Vieux Lyon) with the Traube and Fourvière, and Perc-Île with Croix-Ross.
- Culinary: The traditional Bouchons on the one hand and the Michelin restaurants on the other.
- vehicle: Not required within the city, only for exits to Beaujolais and the Alps.
- When: May, September and October. Exception: Festival of Lights on December 8.
Lyon is the second most important city in France and the first in its cuisine. Founded in 43 BC as Lugdunum and was the capital of Roman Gaul, in the 16th century it was the banking and silk center of Europe, and between these two eras it also managed to invent cinema (the Lumière brothers, 1895) and raise Paul Bocuse.
On this page, I've compiled everything I've written about the city, in an order that allows you to plan a trip from the beginning: flights, accommodation, itineraries, cuisine, history, weather, and transportation. Lyon is more compact than you might think, and three days there is enough for most travelers (unless you came to eat, in which case you need another day).
Flights to Lyon
Lyon is one of the few French cities that can be reached by direct flight from Israel, about four and a half hours. The best alternative is to fly to Paris and continue by TGV train, which makes the journey door-to-door in about two hours.
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Lyon Saint Exupery AirportThe airport is located about 25 kilometers east of the city, and the Ron Express high-speed train takes about 30 minutes to reach the center. The article contains information about the terminals, the options for getting to the city, and how to find cheap tickets for direct flights.
Didn't find a flight that fits your dates? In the Francophile's toolbox there are several other search sites that I work with myself, as well as price comparisons for rental cars and train tickets.
Accommodation in Lyon
Three areas work well as a base: Persac-Île, the central tongue between the two rivers, which is the most practical and within walking distance of everything; old Lyon across the Saône, which is the most beautiful and also the noisiest in the evening; and the Part-Dieu station area, which is soulless but cheap and convenient for those continuing by train.
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Recommended hotels in LyonI collected most of the hotels on the list during my visits to the city, and divided them by area and budget. There's also an explanation of why it's worth paying a little more for a location in Lyon, a city where most of what you came for happens after 7pm.
Itineraries and attractions in Lyon
Lyon is divided into two natural day itineraries, and these are your first two days in the city. On top of them is a full attractions guide that also covers the surrounding area.
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Route in Old Lyon (Vieux Lyon)The Renaissance quarter across the Seine River, one of the largest in Europe and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1998. The route passes through the Traube, hidden passages between houses built for silk merchants, and ascends by cable car to the Fourviere Hill and the Roman theaters.
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Route in Persac-Ile and Croix-RossThe tongue between the Rhône and the Saône is 19th-century Lyon: the vast Place Bellecour, stone buildings and shopping streets. Above it rises Croix-Rousse, the former weavers' neighborhood, which is today the most bohemian and pleasant part of the city.
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What to do in LyonThe complete guide to the city's attractions: the Basilica of Fourviere on the hill, the Confluence Museum at the meeting point of the rivers, the Lumière Brothers Museum and the Tet d'Or Park. It also has guided tours and recommendations for day trips from the city.
More interesting things to do in Lyon
Culinary and restaurants in Lyon
That's why most people come. Lyon has two parallel worlds: the bouchons, small, rustic restaurants that serve excellent, hearty Greek food, and the grand restaurants in the Paul Bocuse tradition. These three articles cover both.
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Recommended restaurants in LyonMy list, from the happy bouchons to restaurants worth booking a month in advance. There's also an explanation of what to order at a bouchon when they bring you a menu full of internal organs.
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Food in Lyon: Tips for the TravelerLior Koren wrote a practical guide for the hungry traveler: what is a quenelle de lion, where to buy pink pralines, and how to avoid the tourist traps of the food market.
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Lyon, the culinary capital of FranceRebecca Koffler wrote about the city from the perspective of someone who collects treasures: markets, shops, and corners that don't appear in the usual guidebooks. An article that's enjoyable to read even if you're not traveling tomorrow.
The history of Lyon
What you see in the city takes on a completely different meaning when you know why the houses are so tall, what the travesties were in the first place, and why this city was the birthplace of cinema.
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The history of LyonFrom the Roman Logdonum, to the 15th-century trade fairs that transformed the city into a European banking center, to the silk industry that shaped its architecture, the article also explains where the city's culinary tradition came from, which is a direct result of this money.
Tourist information in Lyon
Lyon is a city that is easy to get around without a car, and the real question is when to come. Between the two rivers, the humidity is high, and in the summer it is noticeable.
Lyon weather by season
Lyon is located in the Rhone Valley, between the Massif Central and the Alps, so its winters are colder than Paris and its summers are hotter and more humid. Here are the numbers and what they actually mean:
| Season | Temperatures | What does this mean in practice? |
|---|---|---|
| Winter (December to February) | 3 to 9 degrees | Cold and humid. On the other hand, it's the perfect bush season, and on December 8th, the Festival of Lights takes place. |
| Spring (March to May) | 10 to 20 degrees | The best season in my opinion. Nice for walking in the Trabul and climbing to the Fourways on foot. |
| Summer (June to August) | 15 to 26 degrees | It's hot and humid, and in August some of the restaurants are closed for vacation. It's worth checking in advance if the restaurant you're planning to go to is open. |
| Autumn (September to November) | 6 to 15 degrees | September and October are excellent: comfortable weather, fewer tourists, and the restaurants are back in operation. |
How to get around in Lyon
There is no need for a car inside the city, and in most cases it is actually a hindrance. The question is what do you do after Lyon.
The TCL network combines four metro lines, trams, buses and two cable cars that go up to Fourvière, and its daily pass covers everything. If you're in town for three days, it's also worth checking out the Lyon City Card, which combines museums and transportation.
For the Beaujolais villages to the north, to Pervouz and the Alps, a car is the logical solution. I recommend taking one only on days when you are leaving the city, as parking in central Lyon is expensive and limited. I have a separate guide forCar rental in Lyon.
Lyon is a major train hub: two hours to Paris, one hour and forty to Marseille, about an hour and a quarter to Dijon, and about two hours to Geneva. That's why it works so well as a stopover in the middle of a larger trip to France. Details in my article on Trains in France.
Websites with useful information
These are the official sources for checking hours, prices, and events before going.
Public transport in Lyon (TCL)
This is Lyon – Local guide in English
The Basilica of Forvair
Confluence Museum
Lyon Festival of Lights
Which other districts can be reached from Lyon?
Lyon is the most convenient jumping-off point in eastern France. These three regions are within an hour to two hours of it.
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BurgundyNorth of Lyon, and an hour and a half drive away you are in Beaune and the wine route. If you liked the culinary side of Lyon, this is its natural continuation.
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French AlpsAn hour and a half east and you are in Grenoble or Chambéry, and from there to the lakes and peaks. In summer it is an escape from the humidity of the Rhone Valley, and in winter these are the largest ski resorts in Europe.
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ProvenceAn hour and forty by train south and you're in Marseille, and from there the Riviera, Aix-en-Provence and the Luberon open up. It's the same river, just fifty degrees different.
Questions and answers about a trip to Lyon
How many days should you spend in Lyon?
Three days are enough: a day in old Lyon and Fourvière, a day in Persac-Île and Croix-Ross, and a day for museums and food. Those who combine Lyon with a larger trip can make do with two days, and those who come for the food will need four.
How do you get to Lyon from Israel?
There are direct flights to Lyon Saint Exupery Airport, about four and a half hours. The alternative is a flight to Paris and a TGV train from Lyon station in Paris, a journey of about two hours.
Do you need a rental car in Lyon?
No. Within the city, public transportation is excellent and parking is expensive, and most distances are walkable. A car is only worthwhile if you plan to go to Beaujolais, Parvoz, or the Alps.
What is the best season to visit Lyon?
May, September and October. Summer is hot and humid, and in August some of the boutiques are closed for vacation. One exception: the Festival of Lights, which takes place around December 8th, is worth a trip in itself.
Where should you stay in Lyon?
Perse-Île is the most practical choice, walking distance from most attractions and restaurants. Old Lyon is prettier but noisier in the evening, and the Perse station area is cheaper and more convenient for those continuing by train.
What is a bouchon, and is it mandatory to eat at one?
Bouchon is a small, rustic restaurant serving traditional Lyonnais cuisine, based largely on offal and humble ingredients. It's an experience worth experiencing at least once, even if not every dish on the menu will appeal to you.
All articles about Lyon
