The first time I set foot in the Château de Chambord was when I was a 10-year-old boy. I mostly remember a long, exhausting walk through vast corridors, a desperate search for something “happening,” and the disappointing realization that I was standing in front of a huge castle, impressive on the outside, but… quite empty on the inside. At the time, it seemed like a terrible waste of historic real estate. (Kids, go figure.)
But life (and France) likes to give us second chances. A few years ago I was lucky enough to go back there again. This time, armed with a slightly deeper understanding, and after doing some historical “homework,” everything seemed completely different. Suddenly, the empty walls were filled with stories. The staircases whispered secrets from the Renaissance era, and the ancient ovens told of kings who came to hunt and feast. Once you realize that Chambord Castle is not “just a house,” but an architectural, political, and even mystical statement of intent – you really start to love it. (And by the way, when you know where to look for the drama, any castle becomes a fascinating historical telenovela, and Chambord is undoubtedly the VIP season.)
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Practical information for tourists: How, when and why to get to Chambord?
Before we dive into the intricacies of history and the spicy stories I promised, let's provide you with the somewhat boring but super important information about visiting the castle, and then we can move on to the truly interesting part of the article, namely the history of Chambord.
Opening Hours
The castle is open to visitors all year round (except January 1, December 25, and the last Monday of November).
- From April to October: 09:00 to 18:00.
- From November to March: 09:00 to 17:00.
- Please note: The French Gardens close about half an hour before the castle itself closes. The box office closes half an hour before closing.
Tickets to Chambord Castle
The regular admission price is around €30. Admission is free for young people under 26 who are EU residents. It is highly recommended to book tickets in advance to skip the lines, especially during the busy summer months. I personally recommend buying a ticket to Chambord through TIQETS CompanyHowever, if you would like to compare prices, you are welcome to take a look. In my toolbox There are several other reliable and user-friendly sites that may offer an entrance ticket at a slightly cheaper price.
How do you get to the castle from Paris?
Chambord Castle is located in the heart of the Sologne region, surrounded by a walled park the size of the entire city of Paris! Most people who include it in their trip rent a car and travel the Loire Valley for a few days. But, and this is a very important but, You really don't have to rent a car just to get here. (And the truth is, as you will see right away, some of the time this is really undesirable).
Guided tour from Paris
If you live in Paris and want to go out for a day to visit Chambord and maybe another Some castles in the Loire Valley, let me strongly recommend that you not rent a car or even take public transportation (although all of this is possible, as you will see shortly), but simply take a guided tour. The reason for this is that financially it will not cost you significantly less than the price of the car/fuel or the public transportation tickets + castle entrance tickets, and on the other hand it will provide you with peace of mind and allow you to see several castles in one day. This is what I did a few years ago and some of the photos you will see in this article come from my own photos while I was taking a trip through the company Get Your Guide.
So if you decide to take my advice and do something similar, here are a series of day tours from Paris that include Chambord Castle.
Public Transport
If you are based in Paris and wish to reach Chambord by public transport, you are welcome to take a train (SNCF) from Gare d'Austerlitz to the city. Blois (Blois). The journey takes about an hour and a half. From the Blois train station, during the tourist season (April to November), a dedicated shuttle (Navette Blois > Chambord) operates that will take you directly to the castle gates.
If you are looking for a recommended site for booking train tickets in advance (this is pretty much a must because tickets may run out or become very expensive towards the arrival date), you are welcome to enter Link to thisIf you want to compare prices between several companies for booking train tickets, you can find all the most reliable and recommended companies atMy toolbox.
Car Rental
If you decide anyway Rent a car in Paris And so to get to Chambord, the fastest and most convenient way is to travel from central Paris via the toll road. A10 South to exit 16 (Mer), and from there continue following the signs via roads D205 and D112. There are paid parking lots at Chambord Castle (parking lots P0, P1, P2). It is recommended to arrive in the morning to ensure a spot close to the entrance, as the walk from the main parking lot to the castle takes about 10 minutes.
The History of Chambord Castle: Much More Than Just Stones (and Parties)
I promised you spicy stories, and Chambord is simply a goldmine of gossip, vision, and royal ego. Its history is divided into key periods, each with its own tragic (or debauched) hero.
Francis I: The King Who Wanted to Rule the World
Our story begins in 1515. A young, tall, and charismatic king, Francis I (reigned 1515-1547), ascends the throne after two kings before him die without heirs. After winning the famous Battle of Marignan in Italy, he decides to prove to everyone that he is not just another king but a builder-king.
In 1519, he laid the cornerstone for the craziest project of all: the construction of the largest Renaissance castle in France. But where did he choose to build it? In one of the least hospitable places in the Loire Valley – deep in a swampy, mosquito-infested, and isolated marshland.
Why? The simple answer is that Francois wanted an area rich in wildlife for hunting. The deeper answer is that this complex topography was a way to show the supreme power of the government (in the style of “I will subdue even nature, and drain the swamps to build my palace”).
But wait, the story becomes much more mystical and fascinating. Researchers who have tried to crack the “Chambeau Codes” are discovering that this is not just a pretentious hunting lodge. At that time, the king commissioned texts from the theologian Jean Thenaud (1480-1546) that included explanations of… Kabbalah and the Hebrew mystical tradition! Yes, you read that right. The Renaissance people saw reality as a living thing filled with hidden powers. For Francis I, Kabbalah was a form of occult knowledge that could grant extraordinary powers.
Chambord was designed as a mystical discourse in stone, an attempt by the king to gain complete and absolute power over human, natural, and supernatural affairs, and to become a kind of Dominator Mundi (ruler of the world). The castle is filled with geometric structures intended to reflect divine harmony, and with salamanders (the symbol of Françoise, who was believed to be able to live in fire).
The painful irony of this story? Although Francis I poured a huge fortune (and entire state profits) into this project over decades, he hardly ever lived in it! Throughout his 32-year reign, he spent a total of only 72 days in Chambord. The château remained unfinished at his death.
The Sun King and Moliere: Premieres in Freezing Cold
Let’s jump ahead to the 17th century. Louis XIV, aka the “Sun King,” finally decides to complete the construction of the château and furnish it a bit (after all, you can’t invite friends to a house without sofas, and Chambord was famous for its cool emptiness). He also builds the stables and arranges the gardens.
But the most interesting and famous contribution of his time is cultural. Here, in the cool, forest-surrounded château, the premiere of playwright Molière’s masterpiece, Le Bourgeois Gentilhomme, took place in October 1670, which also included dances and music by Jean-Baptiste Lully. Imagine the French nobility shivering in October in the heart of the Solun, trying to laugh at Molière’s jokes while the wind whistled through the château’s 282 fireplaces. (The king, by the way, was very enthusiastic about the play, which saved Molière’s career from his enemies at court.)
In 2015, they performed the play again at Chambord Castle, and here is a short video clip from it:
If you love the show like I do and want to watch the full version of it (which was filmed in a different castle), here is the recommended version:
Maurice de Saxe: The man who brought “Vegas” to Chambord
In the 18th century, Chambord gained the most colorful, wild, and flamboyant occupant in its history – Marshal Maurice de Saxe. He was a brilliant military man, war hero, and quite the womanizer (to put it mildly). King Louis XV gave him the château in recognition of his brilliant military victories for France.
Saxe transformed Chambord from a seasonal hunting lodge into a center for parties on a historic scale. He brought with him his own cavalry regiment, built them magnificent stables, and set up a theater inside the castle that operated almost around the clock.
He partied, hosted shows, commanded troops, and lived the life of a rock star during the “War of the Laces.” Ironically, someone who had survived countless bloody battles on Europe’s most dangerous fronts found his death here in Chambord, in his bed, in 1750. (Local legends, always fond of a bit of blood, tell of a secret duel following a love affair, but most historians agree that it was simply a combination of illness and a lifestyle that was, let’s say, too demanding and indulgent that took its toll.)
World War II: “Saving some of the beauty of the world”
And now a dramatic circle closes in the 20th century. In 1940, with the Nazis at the gates of Paris and war imminent, the directors of the national museums in France (led by Jacques Joujarre) carry out the largest logistical operation in the history of art – the evacuation The Louvre MuseumThousands of priceless works of art are packed in the dead of night and sent to hiding places across the country so that they do not fall into the hands of the Germans or are destroyed by bombing.
Chambord, due to its isolated location and remoteness from major traffic routes and strategic destinations, was chosen to be the central triage station for these works. As poetically put in one of the castle’s recent exhibitions, the aim of this operation was to “save a little of the beauty of the world” (Sauver un peu de la beauté du Monde). It is hard not to be moved when you think of works like the Mona Lisa lying in wooden crates in the dark, cold rooms of the castle, surrounded by French villagers and staff guarding them fiercely, while the world outside goes up in flames. Chambord has gone from a monument to royal ego to a vault guarding the soul of human culture.
What not to miss at Chambord Castle?
So now that you understand what historical stones you're stepping on and how much drama has been absorbed into these walls, what should you see when you step inside? The castle has over 80 rooms open to the public (out of over 400!), and it's very easy to get lost. Here are some must-sees that you won't want to miss:
- The Magic Staircase (Double Staircase): The architectural highlight of Chambord. These are two spiral staircases intertwined around a central hollow axis, whose design is attributed no less than to the genius of Leonardo da Vinci (who was staying nearby at the time, in Amboise). The magic is simple but brilliant: two people can ascend and descend at the same time without ever meeting. (A perfect design for kings trying to evade the Spanish ambassador in the morning, or their legal wife at night).
- The balconies and the “chimney forest”: As you climb the double staircase to the roof of the castle, you are greeted by a completely surreal sight. The roof is not flat in any way, but looks like a small city suspended in the sky, packed with hundreds of chimneys decorated with the symbols of the salamander and the letter F of François I. From here, you also have a breathtaking view of the gardens and forest surrounding the estate.
- Francois I Wing and King's Wing (Salle du roi): Here you will see the restored royal chambers that showcase the splendor and magnificence of the 16th and 17th centuries. Pay particular attention to the vaulted ceilings and carved stonework – this is an extraordinary work of art that demands you to lift your head and admire the small details.
- The French Gardens (Les jardins à la française): The park and gardens have recently undergone a comprehensive restoration process, and they create a perfect contrast between the symmetrical, precise, and clean order of French gardening and the wildness of the forest that surrounds them.
- Vegetable gardens (Jardins-potagers): This is a relatively new project that was launched in 2019. These gardens cover an area of approximately 5000 square meters and are designed to grow organic fruits and vegetables using traditional methods, right where the old stables once stood.
Accommodation in Chambord and the surrounding area: feel like royalty at night
If you've decided not to settle for a one-day trip from Paris, but to absorb the magic of the Loire Valley slowly and quietly (and there is, simply, nothing more romantic than seeing Chambord lit up at night after all the crowds of tourists leave and there is complete silence), I have two wonderful recommendations for you for accommodation in the area.
Le Relais de Chambord: sleep within touching distance of the castle
This hotel is simply a dream come true for those who want to wake up in front of the Château de Chambord. This 4-star hotel was completely renovated in 2018 by the famous architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte. It is located just fifty meters from the château! The hotel offers 55 rooms, some of which offer a breathtaking direct view of the château and its French gardens, while others overlook the peaceful Cosson River. The hotel also has an excellent restaurant (Le Grand Saint-Michel) that offers dinners in front of the illuminated château.
For more information and to book rooms at Relais de Chambord, click here..
Chateau des Grotteaux: Classic elegance near Chambord
If you prefer to get a little further away from the tourist hustle and bustle of the estate center, but still stay close enough (in the nearby Huisseau-sur-Cosson area), the “Grotto Castle” offers a true, authentic, and more intimate French “château” experience. A perfect place for couples looking for a combination of exclusive nature, personal attention, modern comfort wrapped in history, and rich breakfasts served to you as if you were at least Maurice de Saxe at the height of his glory.
For more information and to book rooms at Chateau des Grotteaux, click here..
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What next?
If you are looking for more articles about the Loire Valley, you are welcome to visit the page The Loire Valley for the Traveler On my website.
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Thank you for walking with me through the corridors of history, and see you in the next article!