in short
- Two areas: The heart of the valley between Orléans and Tours, where the famous castles are located, and green Anjou to the west.
- How many days: Three to the heart of the valley, a week for those who add Anjou and the attractions for children.
- How to get there: Train from Montparnasse or Austerlitz – about an hour to Orléans, about an hour and a quarter to Tours.
- vehicle: It's not mandatory for cities, but it is mandatory for castles between villages.
- When: April to June and September. In winter the gardens are closed.
- For families: Futuroscope, Pois du Pau, Anjou canal cruises and the bike path along the river.
The Loire Valley is where the kings of France stopped building fortresses and started building palaces. A 280-kilometer stretch along the river, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000, is packed with dozens of Renaissance castles, gardens, Vouvray vineyards, and cities of white stone houses (and anyone who has read The Cursed Kings knows how much blood was spilled on those polished floors).
On this page, I have compiled everything I have written about the valley, in an order that allows you to plan a trip from the beginning: arrival, accommodation, castles, attractions for children, history, weather and transportation. I have separated the heart of the valley, the strip between Orléans and Tours where the famous castles are located, and Anjou to the west, which is a green, quiet and much less touristy area. This division is mainly important for choosing a base for accommodation: the distance between the two ends is about a two-hour drive.
How to get to the Loire Valley
There is no international airport in the valley, so fly to Paris and continue from there. By train from Montparnasse or Austerlitz stations, you can reach Orléans in about an hour, Tours in about an hour and a quarter, and Blois in about two hours. By rental car, the A10 and A11 toll roads bring you from Paris to the heart of the valley in two to three hours. You can search for flights to Paris here.
Didn't find a flight that fits your dates? In the Francophile's toolbox there are several other search sites that I work with myself, as well as price comparisons for rental cars and train tickets.
The heart of the Loire Valley: from Orléans to Tours
This is the strip that most travelers come to the valley for: between Orléans in the east and Tours in the west lie Chambord, Chenonceau, Blois and Amboise, all less than an hour's drive from each other. You can sleep at one base and see them all in day trips.
Accommodation in the heart of the Loire Valley
My personal recommendation
Which accommodation in the Loire Valley is right for you?
A few short questions, and I'll filter for you from the accommodations I've already checked and written about on the site what's suitable for the vacation you're planning.
Just a moment, I'll go through my recommendations and look for what suits you...
The four cities that make good bases are Tours, Amboise, Blois, and Orléans. Tours is the practical choice thanks to the train and restaurants, Amboise is small and easy to get around without a car, Blois is right in the middle, and Orléans is convenient for those arriving by train for a day or two. There is also a fifth option, the nicest of all: sleeping in a castle.
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Accommodation in ToursThe largest city in the valley and the most convenient base for those arriving by train: organized tours to the castles depart from here, and the city itself has an old town with a square called Plomberal and an indoor market. The article has hotels for every budget and vacation apartments for families.
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Accommodation in AmboiseThe base I recommend for those arriving without a car: the royal castle at the end of the main street, Clos Lousse a ten-minute walk away, and the train from Paris stops here. In the article, I compiled mansions in the city center, castles in the surrounding area, and also vacation apartments for families and couples.
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Accommodation in BloisBlois sits exactly halfway between Chambord and Chenonceau, so it's the perfect base for those who come primarily for the castles. The city is small and pleasant, and the prices are lower than in Tours.
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Accommodation in OrléansThe closest city to Paris, only about an hour by train, and therefore the right choice for those combining the valley with a Parisian trip. The city itself is forever associated with the name of Joan of Arc, who liberated it from siege in 1429.
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Sleep in a castleIn the Loire Valley, it's not a fantasy and not necessarily more expensive than a good hotel: dozens of private castles have been transformed into boutique hotels with private parks. In this article, I've compiled my recommendations, from the modest to the truly luxurious.
Additional accommodation guides
Hiking route in the Loire Valley
Before booking accommodation and tickets, it's a good idea to read the itinerary. It determines the order of traffic, and most importantly, prevents you from turning the trip into a race between castles.
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8 days in the Loire ValleyA modular itinerary from Paris to the valley and back, which can be shortened to three days or extended to a full week. It combines large castles with small towns and free time, and indicates for each day what to book in advance and what can be left for the moment.
Must-see castles in the heart of the valley
These five castles are the heart of the French Renaissance, and each has its own guide here. I don't recommend cramming more than two into a day.
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Chambord CastleThe largest and most ostentatious of them all, built by François I as a hunting lodge that he hardly ever lived in. The double staircase is attributed to Leonardo da Vinci, and the park around it is almost as large as Paris within the walls.
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Chenonceau CastleThe castle, built on a bridge over the Cher River, and the place where Catherine de Medici and Diane de Poitiers fought their famous battle, is called the Women's Castle, and rightly so: everyone who designed it was a woman.
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Amboise CastleThe royal castle overlooking the river, where Charles VIII died in 1498 from a head injury on a low lintel. In the chapel next to it, according to tradition, Leonardo da Vinci is buried, who spent his last years in nearby Cala Llose.
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Blois CastleFour wings from four different periods around one courtyard, from the Middle Ages to Classicism. It is also where Henry III ordered the murder of the Duke of Guise in 1588, and the guide explains in which room exactly this happened.
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Ussé CastleTurrets, landscaped gardens, and a surrounding forest: this is the castle that, according to tradition, inspired Charles Perrault's Sleeping Beauty. Less crowded than the larger castles, and popular with children.
Planning to visit several castles on the same trip? A combined ticket (Pass Châteaux) saves both money and waiting in line, and includes the stars of the valley: Chambord, Chenonceau, Amboise and Clos Lousse, Leonardo's last home. For details on the combined ticket.
More interesting things to do in the Loire Valley
Attractions for children in the Loire Valley and surrounding areas
If you're traveling with kids, three castles in a day is a recipe for rebellion. These two parks, located south of the valley and within a reasonable driving distance, buy you two more castles of sedate tranquility.
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Futuroscope ParkA technological amusement park near Poitiers, based on giant screens, virtual reality, and installations that combine films with movement. Suitable for older children and adults, and easy to combine with a trip south.
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Puy du Fou ParkNot an ordinary amusement park, but a series of historical shows on a huge scale: knights, Vikings, a Roman arena, and a night show with thousands of participants. You don't need to know French to enjoy it.
The history of the Loire Valley
Knowing in advance what happened in these rooms completely changes the visit. Instead of standing in front of another painted wall, you'll know who betrayed whom and exactly where it happened.
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The history of the Loire ValleyWhy were all these castles built here? The article traces the path from the Hundred Years' War, when the valley was a refuge for the royal court, through the Renaissance to the religious murders of the Wars of Religion.
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Anne of BrittanyThe Duchess who became Queen of France twice, and the woman who brought Brittany into France. She lived and died in the castles of the valley, and without her story it is difficult to understand the politics behind the stones.
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The Black Room in ChenonceauLouise of Lorraine was widowed at the age of 36 when her husband Henry III was assassinated, and she spent the rest of her life in a room painted black in the Château de Chenonceau. The room can still be seen today, and the story behind it is particularly difficult.
Anjou: The Green West of the Loire Valley
West of Tours begins the Anjou region, which is less touristy, greener, and cheaper. Here you'll find the abbey where the kings of England are buried, the tallest castle in France, wine caves carved out of tufa, and canals you can sail through. If you have four or more days, it's worth spending two of them here.
Accommodation in Anjou
Angers is the natural base for the western part: a lively student city with a huge citadel in the center, extremely affordable accommodation prices, and a direct train from Paris in less than two hours.
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Accommodation in AngersIn the article, I divided the recommendations between the historic center around the fortress and the cathedral, which is most convenient for walking, and vacation apartments and guesthouses in the surrounding villages, which are suitable for those coming with a car.
What to do in Anjou
Six destinations, all less than an hour's drive from Angers, and most of them empty of travelers even in mid-August.
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Angers CastleA black fortress with 17 towers in the heart of the city, and inside it the real treasure: the 14th-century Apocalypse Tapestry, about a hundred meters of tapestry that miraculously survived. The article was written by Haya Bar.
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Château de BrissacThe tallest castle in France, seven stories high, and still in the hands of the same family for centuries. It has a private theater, a vast park, and a reasonable chance of meeting the Duke himself strolling through the garden.
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Fontevraud AbbeyThe largest monastic complex in Europe, where Richard the Lionheart, his father Henry II, and Eleanor of Aquitaine are buried. After the Revolution, it became a guarded prison for a hundred and fifty years, and the scars of these two lives are still visible there.
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Doué-la-FontaineA town built on hewn tufa caves, which today serve as wine cellars and even restaurants. This is where some of the best Anjou wines come from, and visiting them is a completely different experience than a regular winery.
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Canal cruise in AnjouRent a houseboat for a week and cruise at three kilometers per hour between locks and villages. I did it, and it was one of my quiet and joyful experiences in France. No boating license needed.
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Chateau Le LudeA private castle in the north of the region, with gardens descending to the Petite Loire River (not to be confused, it's a different river). The article is also a story about what happens when you arrive at a French castle a minute after closing.
Information for travelers in the Loire Valley
The two things that determine the nature of a trip to the Loire Valley are the season and the mode of transportation. Most castles are closed or have reduced hours in winter, and the gardens only open from April.
Weather in the Loire Valley by season
The valley is in a temperate climate zone, especially comfortable for those coming from Israel: never really hot and never really cold. These are the averages and what they actually mean:
| Season | Average temperature | What does this mean in practice? |
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| Winter (December to February) | About 5 degrees | The gardens are closed and some of the castles are operating on limited hours. On the other hand, Chambord in the morning mist is a sight you won't forget. |
| Spring (March to May) | About 14 degrees | The best season in my opinion. The gardens are opening, the fields are green, and the castles are not yet crowded. |
| Summer (June to August) | About 17 degrees | Nice for walking and cycling, but it's also the busy and expensive season. Book tickets to Chambord and Chenonceau in advance. |
| Autumn (September to November) | About 11 degrees | September is an excellent month: harvest season in the Wavre vineyards, comfortable weather and fewer people. |
How to get around in the Loire Valley
The cities are easily reached by train, but the castles themselves are scattered among villages and fields. Those are the three options, and the third is more surprising than it sounds.
The most flexible way, and the only one that allows you to get to castles that are not in the city. You can rent in Paris and drive south, or take the train to Tours or Blois and only take a car from there.The toolbox I have compiled the comparison sites I work with.
From Montparnasse and Austerlitz you can reach Orléans in about an hour, Tours in about an hour and a quarter, and Blois in about two hours. Those staying in Paris and wanting a day in the valley will find that an organized tour is cheaper and easier than a car for the day. Details about the trains in my article on Trains in France.
The La Loire à Vélo trail, part of EuroVelo 6, stretches for hundreds of kilometers along the river and is almost entirely flat. You can rent a bike in one town and return it in another, and combine riding with a train.
Websites with useful information
Opening hours for castles vary between seasons, and sometimes even mid-season. These are the official sources to check before you go.
Tours Tourist Office
Orléans Tourist Office
Amboise Tourist Office
Official website of Chambord Castle
Association of Loire Castles
What other districts can be reached?
The Loire Valley sits just below Paris and south of Normandy and Brittany, so it's easy to connect it to another region on the same trip.
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Ile de FranceThe district that surrounds Paris, and contains Versailles, Fontainebleau, and other palaces. If you drive from Paris to the valley, you pass through it on the way.
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NormandyTwo hours north of Tours, and you are in the region of Mont Saint Michel, the landing beaches and the cliffs of Etretat. A very common and successful combination with the Loire Valley.
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BrittanyContinuing west from Angers, you reach wild beaches, fortified fishing towns, and a Celtic culture that is completely different from the rest of France.
Questions and answers about a trip to the Loire Valley
How many days should you dedicate to the Loire Valley?
Three days is enough for four or five major castles in the heart of the valley. A week allows you to add Anjou in the west, the attractions for children, and a day of biking or wine. Those staying in Paris can make do with an organized one-day tour of two to three castles.
How to get to the Loire Valley from Paris?
By train from Montparnasse or Austerlitz stations: about an hour to Orléans, about an hour and a quarter to Tours, and about two hours to Blois. By rental car, the A10 and A11 toll roads take you to the heart of the valley in two to three hours.
Do you need a rental car in the Loire Valley?
The cities themselves don't, but most of the castles are located between villages and fields, and some don't have reasonable public transport. The alternatives are an organized tour from Tours or Paris, or a combination of train and bike on the Loire à Volo trail.
What is the best season to travel to the Loire Valley?
April to June and September. In spring the gardens open and the castles are not yet crowded, and in September the harvest season arrives. In winter some sites are closed or operate with limited hours.
Which castles should not be missed?
Chambord for its scale, Châlons for its bridge over the river, Amboise for Leonardo da Vinci, and Blois for the four periods that meet in one courtyard. Those looking for something quieter will find it in Lousse, Brissac, and Fontevraud.
Is the Loire Valley suitable for a trip with children?
Absolutely, provided you don't just fill your days with castles. In the area are Futuroscope, Puy du Fou and Zooparc de Beauval, and a canal cruise or a day of cycling also work great.
All articles about the Loire Valley
Our Facebook group: Loire Valley for Travelers
If you still have a question that the information here didn’t cover (and it usually starts with the words “but which castle is better”), I run a Facebook group called “The Loire Valley for Travelers.” This is exactly the place to ask without hesitation, get answers from those who have already traveled there, and share your travel experiences with other Francophiles who love the region just as much as you do.
