Dreux – the burial place of the last king of France

The King of France must know not only how to live but also how to die. Since he has lived his entire life in magnificent palaces, it is only natural that when his day comes to pass into a world of all good (as if he had no good here), he will not be buried in a simple tomb, but inside a cathedral under a magnificent tombstone. Since the Middle Ages, the kings of France have chosen the Basilica of Saint Denis as their final resting place, and most tourist guides will tell you that the tombs of all the kings since Dagobert (king between 629-639) can be found there.

However, this is a mistake because the last two kings of France were not buried there. The first was King Charles X (reigned 1824-1830), who was forced to flee France following the 1830 Revolution, died in exile in Slovenia and was buried in Gorizia in 1836. The second was Louis Philippe (reigned 1830-1848), who was also forced to flee following a revolution and died in England in 1850. However, unlike Charles X, his body was returned to French soil , but instead of being buried in Saint-Denis, it was buried, at his request, in Dreux.

The history of Dreux

The town of Drew, part of a county of the same name, was part of the domain of the kings of France and during the Middle Ages became a battleground between France and the Duchy of Normandy and the King of England. The towering hill on which the complex sits served as a major military fortress as early as the 12th and 13th centuries, fiercely defending the borders of the Capetian royal domain, and seeing quite a few sieges, including those led by King Henry IV (1553-1610) during the Wars of Religion.

In 1775, King Louis XVI of France, who coveted the castle of Rambouillet, decided to give its owner, the Duke of Penthièvre, the town of Droux in exchange for this castle.

The Duke decided to transfer the bones of his father, the Duke of Toulouse, the illegitimate son of Louis XIV, and the rest of his family from the church of Rambouillet to that of Dère, where he himself was buried in 1793. However, shortly afterwards, the revolutionary government decided to desecrate the family tombs and throw the bones into a mass grave.

After the return of the Bourbons, the Duchess of Orléans, wife of the Duke of Penthier and mother of Louis Philippe, the future King of France, decided to build a tomb mansion on the site of her family's mass grave. The mansion was built in the neoclassical style, as was common in the early 19th century, and featured Doric columns and a beautiful dome.

Beyond building the estate, Duchess Marie-Adélaïde de Bourbon (1753-1821) led a fascinating life. After her divorce from her husband Philippe Agliette (who voted for the execution of Louis XVI, and ended his own life on the guillotine), she went into exile in Spain. There she fell in love with Jean-Guillaume Rosat (1754-1820), a government official and former revolutionary. Their love was so intense that upon his death she insisted that he be buried in the royal chapel, and today his simple tomb stands next to the tombs of kings and princes (it turns out that sometimes love does triumph over politics).

In 1830, after coming to power, Louis Philippe decided to transform the family tomb into a royal mansion that would rival Saint-Denis, where, as mentioned, almost all the kings of France were buried. Since the neo-Gothic style had become very popular in France at that time, the king surrounded the original tomb with Gothic-style buildings, the construction of which was completed in 1845. The result was a spectacular structure, although some would say a little kitschy due to the mixing of styles.

Visiting the tomb of Dara

Louis Philippe was forced to flee France in 1848 and died in England. His wife died in 1866 and only 10 years later were their bodies returned to France and buried in Dre alongside the rest of the Orléans family. Today, the complex contains several dozen tombs of Orléans, whose sons still claim the French throne (the current claimant is the Count of Paris , who calls himself Henry VII).

Since there is a fee to enter the complex, you enter the church from below through the crypt, where most of the tombs are located, and proceed up to the original entrance floor. When I entered the complex, I didn't know exactly what to expect. At first, all you'll see are a few unimpressive tombstones, some of which are empty (probably for future use). But then you turn right and this view emerges.

There is something captivating about this quiet, morbid beauty. And that is when you start to wander from tomb to tomb and learn about these people, who despite being wealthy nobles, were not always so fortunate in life. Take, for example, the tombs of Ferdinand Philippe, Duke of Orléans (1810-1842) and his wife Helena of Mecklenburg (1814-1858).

Reach out and touch him.

Ferdinand Philippe was the eldest son of Louis Philippe and was considered the greatest promise of the House of Orléans due to his successes in the French army and his great patronage of contemporary writers (he was a friend of Alexandre Dumas, Victor Hugo , Alfred de Massé, and others). However, in 1842 the heir to the throne was killed in a carriage accident near Port Maillot, west of Paris. His wife Helena of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, who brought the custom of displaying Christmas trees to Paris with her, was a Protestant.

As a result, when she died of tuberculosis in 1858, she could not be buried with her husband and had to be buried in a separate chapel. However, the sculptor Henri Chapu (1833-1891), who was responsible for her tombstone, did not want to completely separate the couple who had loved each other in life. So when he sculpted her tombstone, he extended her hand towards her husband's grave in a gesture that represented her trying to reunite with him in death.

As you walk among the tombs, you will discover that although they are princes, they also often lost their young children. Take for example the little prince Louis of Orléans, who died in 1874 at the age of only seven. The sculptor Millet (1819-1891), who is responsible for some of the sculptures at the Paris Opera, decided to “wrap” the child in a kind of semi-transparent fabric made of marble, so that visitors can see the facial features of the little prince, who will forever remain 7 years old.

Heroism in Flames and Other Family Tragedies

One of the most chilling stories I discovered in the complex concerns Duchess Sophie-Charlotte of Bavaria (1847-1897). In May 1897, a huge fire broke out at a Paris charity fair (Bazar de la Charité). Despite the flames, the Duchess refused to flee and insisted on staying to help the young girls get out, declaring that “the Duchess must go out last.” Her bravery cost her her life. The statue originally designed for her depicted her writhing in flames, but her family was shocked by the realism and replaced it with the peaceful statue that stands there today.

You can also meet Marie d'Orléans (1813-1839), a gifted Romantic sculptor who herself designed the angel statue that adorns her tomb, and Bathilde d'Orléans (1750-1822), mother of the Duke of Anjou who was executed by Napoleon (whose tomb is decorated with a weeping angel). A Brazilian branch of the family is also represented, with Prince Antonio Gaston of Orléans-Bregana (1881-1918), who served as an officer in World War I only to be killed in a plane crash shortly afterwards.

Finally, we arrive at the tomb of Louis Philippe and his wife. The tomb is different from the other tombs because here the deceased is depicted standing and his wife kneels in prayer. The marble statue, which was inaugurated in 1886, was so beautiful that it was decided that it would be a waste to simply place it on a tomb, and it went on a “tour,” culminating in its presentation at the 1889 World’s Fair in Paris (the exhibition in honor of which the Eiffel Tower was built ).

Architecture, stained glass windows and a rare organ

The chapel is not just a magnificent cemetery but an artistic masterpiece. Architect Pierre-Bernard Franck (1795-1856) drew inspiration from the legendary architect Eugène Viola-le-Duc to design the neo-Gothic space. But the jewel in the crown is the collection of stained glass windows from the Sèvres porcelain factory, which emit a deep blue hue that has earned it the nickname “Sèvres blue.” Painters such as Ingres and Delacroix contributed their talents to the design of the windows, with the saints in the stained glass depicted as members of the royal family.

At the west end of the church, a huge pipe organ from 1845 awaits you, the work of the famous organ builder Aristide Quaillet-Cole, which resonates in concerts between the stone walls to this day.

After you've finished glancing at the tombs, you're invited to go up to the church itself. This is the oldest part, which ironically is built in a newer style than the modern part (because of its neoclassical style, which is completely different from the neo-Gothic style). After you've finished admiring the stained glass windows and the organ, look up and you'll discover one of the most beautiful domes you've ever seen.

Practical information for visitors

If you also want to see this wonder up close, you should know that the complex is closed in the winter months (January-March and December) and on Tuesdays. From April to September, the complex is open continuously (between 09:30-17:30, with a lunch break in most cases). In October, the place is open mainly on weekends. The entrance ticket is about 9.20 euros per adult and includes an audio guide (children under 7 enter for free). Remember that it is forbidden to take photos with a flash in the place in order to preserve the works of art, and it is forbidden to touch the marble statues.

Accommodation in Daraa

On my last trip I stayed in Yael and her brother's lovely apartment in Deauville , but staying in the Deauville area can allow you to easily discover both eastern Normandy and the western part of Ile-de-France. Here are some recommended hotels in Deauville and the surrounding area in a variety of prices:

Primard domain

A luxurious mansion located a short distance from Deraa, offering a spa, gourmet restaurants and magnificent gardens. Perfect for those looking for uncompromising pampering. For more information and room reservations.

Hotel Le Beffroi

A comfortable and classic 3-star hotel located right in the heart of the historic pedestrian street of Daraa. Excellent value for money and a great location near the attractions. For more information and to book rooms.

The Originals City, Hôtel des Lys

A great and very comfortable option in the center of Daraa, offering modern rooms and secure private parking. For more information and to book rooms.

B&B HOTEL Dreux Nord

An economical and functional hotel, excellent for travelers with a car who are looking for a clean and comfortable accommodation solution at a particularly affordable price. For more information and to book rooms.

Summary

The Chapel of Dre, where the members of the Orléans family are buried, is in my opinion one of the most special places in France and the highlight of the trip I took in early May 2016 and to which I returned in September 2025. However, it is quite clear to me that it is not suitable for everyone and there are many for whom this morbidity can bother them. However, for everyone else, I highly recommend visiting this place and also combining a visit to the town where quite a few Renaissance and Baroque houses remain. Also, since the town is a short distance from the Ante Castle, I highly recommend combining it with a trip on the same day.

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