Friday, November 23, 2018. The forecast promises a rainy, cold, windy, stormy day, with lightning and thunder. Not exactly a day for a trip. But I'm on a mission toThe main Francophile, on a mission: Nantes. Shluchi Mitzvah, as is known, only get a little wet, and dry quickly. And as I quoted in the previous article, about Normandy, standing on Omaha Beach, the motto of the “First, Great, Red” Division? “No task is too difficult, no sacrifice is too great. At the top – duty!”. Vive la France!
Karen and I are leaving from Port-de-Roche, where we live. About 60 km north of Nantes.
How to get to the city of Nantes from Israel
Since you don't live in Brittany, but are coming from the country, here are some ways to do this.
Flights to Nantes
Until 2019, there were direct flights from Israel to Nantes by Transavia and EasyJet, but the coronavirus pandemic caused these flights to be discontinued. When these flights resume, I promise to update the article, but until then, if you decide to fly from Israel directly to Nantes, you will need to make a connection.
If you decide to do this, I recommend going toThe Francophile's toolbox There you will find several recommended sites for booking flights.
Train to Nantes
Another way to get to Nantes is toFly directly to Paris And from there take a train to Nantes. Since it is a central city, there are quite a few trains that go there and I recommend booking tickets from one of these sites:
Rented vehicle
An excellent way to get to Nantes is by car, but all of this is provided that you intend to leave the city (otherwise you will have to deal with driving within the city and parking, and it's not worth the headache).
If you are planning to make Nantes a base for star trips then you will be happy to know that the west coast of the Atlantic Ocean is only about 60 km away, castles Loire valley A little further away, and Angers is still accessible for a day trip. Obviously, for such a trip it is worth renting a car, and it is better to pick it up and return it in the field, because it will still be useful in Nantes, in areas far from the city center.
There are several recommended sites for car rental, but currently the Francophile's favorite site is that of Otto Shay, which provides service in Hebrew and very competitive prices (including an exclusive discount for site members).
Accommodation in Nantes
As mentioned, Nantes is a great place to stay, both for discovering the city itself and for making it a base for star trips in Brittany. I have carefully collected recommended hotels and apartments for you, and you can find them in these articles:
- Hotels in Nantes – My recommendations and those of other Francophiles
- Apartments in Nantes – Recommendations for vacation apartments in the city center
Attractions in Nantes
If you are looking for attractions in and around the city of Nantes, we recommend checking out the website Get Your Guide Which contains quite a few interesting options. Here are some of the most popular activities and attractions:
Puy du Fou
This attraction is not located in Nantes, but if you are visiting the city you simply must go there (there are shuttles from Nantes there and back). It is an amusement park that deals entirely with the history of France and presents simply amazing shows (as you saw in the video above). Recommended not only for children but also for adults.
You can find more information about the venue and buy tickets atLink this.
Recommended restaurants in Nantes
There are countless restaurants in Nantes, and I assume most of them are excellent. In France, food is taken seriously. Even an oriental restaurant, like in Israel, serves food on a different level here. Here are some recommended restaurants:
A restaurant specializing in Souris d'Ageneau (I would love to receive the Hebrew translation for this dish, which is based on lamb). The restaurant also serves quite a few types of fresh fish.
I didn't try it myself, because I was full of croissants, but the place got excellent reviews. I'd love to get recommendations from anyone who tries it.
If you're tired of French food, and you're looking for a Japanese restaurant, then you'll hear that this is one of the best restaurants in Nantes.
An excellent steakhouse that serves various types of steaks. Also recommended for families.
Transportation in Nantes
Before we continue, a piece of advice I already mentioned: Even if you have rented a car, it is not recommended to use it in the city, at least not in the center. Little parking, lots of traffic jams. There is an excellent tram – here is the line map. True, it is not the metro, but Nantes is not Paris, so that's enough.
You can easily identify the white-green carriages:
We've been to hotels and food, and we'll also get to desserts, and they're not the end!
Nantes Card: A great way to get to know the city and save money
Before we move on to the itineraries, I would like to recommend that you buy the Nantes Card Let him give you the following:
- Free public transportation
- Free admission to all the city's main attractions and museums, including the Ducal Palace.
- Free bicycle rental for those who want to discover the city on two wheels.
- Discounts in some stores.
If you plan to stay a few days in Nantes and discover everything this city has to offer, this ticket will be very, very worth it.
Nantes city tour itinerary
Assuming you are staying in the city center, or arriving from a more distant (and always cheaper and better) hotel, here are the points of interest on the tour route I suggest:
Site #1: Jardin des Plantes Park
Getting there: In Waze, type the name of the site, or address: Rue Stanislas Baudry.
By tram: Line No. 1, SNFC NORD station
In the fall and winter the garden is not at its best, but it still has a different kind of beauty. The colors of the fall are a little sad and a lot calming. There are signs in the garden detailing the types of plants, there are waterfowl and there are sculptures. It's worth dedicating about half an hour to it.
Pictures I took:
Site No. 2: Museum of Fine Arts – Musée d'arts de Nantes
Arrival: A short, leisurely walk from the park's northern exit:
The museum displays a permanent collection of great painters, mainly French, but not only. You can spend two hours, two days, two weeks here. I came this time just to see one special oil painting:
A little history: Contrary to what we've learned, or at least what I've learned, it seems French Revolution There was a general uprising of the French people against the king and the nobility, which began with the storming of the Bastille and ended with the execution of many noblemen and women (“If there is no bread, let them eat cakes”), but things were much more complicated.
I tried to simplify things for this article, and gave up. It turns out that apart from the simplistic division between nobles and the masses, Girondins, Brissots, Sans-Quillots, Jacobins, Montagnards, Cordeliers, Abrists, Indulgents, Muscardins, and I have probably omitted several groups, acted, fought, and killed each other. Each in turn, when it came to power, defined all the others as enemies of France, and had them executed.
My situation reminds me of the despair of the night editor at the newspaper “Davar,” who was flooded with news about a flood in China, an epidemic in India, riots in Scotland, and a strike in Haifa. In his despair, he turned to his friend and asked, “What headline should I put in tomorrow morning’s issue?” The friend replied: “The world is like a stew”…
So France was like a soup, and the soup did not miss Nantes. Here, with us, Jean-Baptiste Carrier, the envoy of the Convention nationale, the revolutionary government, who came to us in Nantes in October 1793, stood out in infamy. The guillotines were working at full capacity, but that was not enough to empty the prisons of suspected counter-revolutionaries, at the rate at which new suspects were arriving. FIFO, of course.
Carrière's gaze fell on the Loire River. In that moment he understood why he was there. Special boats were built, with opening doors at the bottom. Chained prisoners were lowered into the middle of the river, and drowned by the hundreds. The "Drownings of Nantes", Noyades de Nantes, entered the ugly history of this beautiful city.
Carier's enemies were especially the churchmen, who refused to accept the supremacy of the will of the people over the will of God. Carier's special hobby was to tie a priest and a nun together, naked, and throw them into the Loire, so that they would be united there in death, as the Bible says, "and they would become one flesh." Carier called this a "republican wedding."
Joseph Aubert painted this in a huge painting, and I wanted to see this. Legitimate pornography, right? Well, the city of Nantes, despite its openness to dark episodes in its history, such as being a pan-European center for the slave trade, apparently thought this painting was going a bit too far, so it was exiled to the Loire Valley, and is on display there in the Musée d'art et d'histoire de Cholet. I'll get there later and report if it's really kept there.
Site #3: Cathedral of Saint-Pierre and Saint-Paul – Chathedrale Saint-Pierre-et-Sain-Paul
I know. We're tired of cathedrals. But you pass by there anyway, on your way to the Ducal Chateau. BrittanySo at least look from the outside. I took the picture on a rainy day, from inside the car, at a bad angle, so get a picture from Wikipedia instead.
The Francophile's Note: Don't listen to Danny. You must enter this cathedral, one of the most beautiful in France, and discover there the magnificent tomb of the Duke of Brittany, François II, and his wife. You can learn about the story of this tomb in the article Anne of Brittany – the Duchess who became Queen of France twice.
Site No. 4: Chateau des Ducs de Bretagne
Again, a leisurely walk. The castle is spectacular in its beauty and very impressive in its size. It is still surrounded by a moat full of water today.
I suggest entering through the southern gate, at 4 Place Marc Elder, because it is close to the city's history museum, which features interesting exhibits from its glorious and less glorious past. I think it is worth appreciating.
Site #5: La Tour LU
If you entered the castle through the southern gate, you must have noticed behind you, southeast of the gate, a strangely colored tower. It is one of two towers that adorned a biscuit factory. Both were badly damaged in World War II, one was completely destroyed, the other, the one you see today, was restored in 1997. I understand that there is artistic activity there, but I have never been inside. They have אתר אינטרנט Which brings future events
Site No. 6: Church of the Holy Cross – Eglise Sainte-Croix
It is located west of the castle. You don't have to enter here either, but it's worth getting close to see the trumpeters on the tower.
Site #7: The Fountain at Place Royal
Still walking distance. An interesting fountain in its allegorical details:
The marble figure above symbolizes the city of Nantes, in the form of Amphitrite, wife of Poseidon. Emphasizes Nantes as a port city facing the ocean, although in fact it lies on the Loire, not actually on the coast. All the other figures are bronze. The Loire is represented by a seated woman facing the same direction as the Nantes statue. She pours water from two amphorae, which probably represent the two arms of the river that surround the island in the center of Nantes. The tributaries of the Loire are represented by 4 statues, two male statues and two female statues: Ardra, Sèvre, Cher and Loarte. Other statues represent traditional trades and industries in the city.
When I was here there was a beautiful Christmas market around the fountain.
Site No. 8: Passage Pommeraye
A shopping center, Galeries Lafayette style. Very fancy. Not for me.
If you must have a shopping mall, I'll bring one at the end of the article.
Site No. 9 Vincent Guerlais' Patisserie
Did I promise sweets? Yes. Meet Vincent Guerlais, patissier and chocolatier. The most dangerous man in Nantes today.
His flagship product, by the way, is something called a “Fatty Bar” biscuit, only it’s made up of a lot of good things. Very good.
Address: 11 Rue Franklin, 44000 Nantes.
Site No. 10 – Statue of General Cambron
The statue of General Pierre Cambronne. The one from “Merde!” on which you can read בThis article.
I'm happy to be back here. A person like me. Address: 3 Cours Cambronne
A walking tour in the suburbs of Nantes
The three sites after the Merde site are outside the map I provided at the beginning of the article. Therefore, I will provide a special map for them, starting with Merde and ending with Phil.
I know. A long walk in a monotonous landscape is a great opportunity for meditation. And if it rains, it will be just perfect. So let's go. Only 2 kilometers. But you can also take the tram. Get off the General south, to the edge of the Loire, get on tram line #1 traveling west. For site #11, get off at the station marked on the map I'll bring right away. Continue to site #12. Then go back east to the station where line #3 intersects with line #13 (commerce), and get off at site #XNUMX.
here:
Site No. 11: Memorial for the Abolition of Slavery in France
Not that there were many slaves in France, but the ports of France in general, and the port of Nantes in particular, were departure points for slave trading ships, and to Nantes' credit, it can be said that it does not deny this dark chapter in its history.
Unfortunately, the place was closed for renovations when I arrived. There's no point in me bringing things from the internet, See for yourselfIf any of you visit there – I would love to read your impressions.
And now for a visit to the old lady, who played two British babes!
Site #12: The gunship that appeared in the movie Dunkirk
Please be aware of:
Madame Maille-Breze. Born in Lorraine, in 1953. In 1988 she retired, and lives on the banks of the Loire. Her address: Quai de la fosse BP 68721 44187 NANTES. She happily receives guests. For a fee, of course.
there she is:
This is a destroyer of the French Navy, named after the admiral (Jean Armand de Maille-breze 1612-1646). Between us: the lady's combat history in her youth is a bit questionable. The most she did was land fighters in Algiers, so that they could fight the OAS underground rebels there. However, she later received an order to shell the rebel stronghold at Bab-el-Oud, and a bright blush rose on her childish cheeks (this was probably in 1962, she was twelve years old), adding great charm to her. Unfortunately, the order was canceled before the first shell was fired. This is where the bat mitzvah's combat career ended.
She continued to wade in the water for another 26 years, and then her tired body was turned into a floating museum.
You know the saying, "Old soldiers never die." There's a sequel: They just fade away. It turns out that's true for her, too. In 2016, when the lady was 63 years old, she was re-enlisted, and this time, oh! this time! This time, her guns rained down a barrage of fire.
It turns out that director Christopher Nolan, when planning the film “Dunkirk,” needed two warships to play the British destroyers HMS Vanquisher and HMS Vivacious, which arrived on the coast of Dunkirk to cover the evacuation of the British expeditionary force that was pushed there and faced annihilation.
I suppose the British Navy no longer had such junk, so Nolan had to turn to the French. They must have rubbed their hands with delight. The French army had not forgotten how the British had forbidden French soldiers from boarding the evacuation ships on the Dunkirk coast until the evacuation of their soldiers was complete. But honor comes at a price, and the French had quoted a huge sum for the rental of two destroyers.
But Nolan was not made with a finger. It is true that he needed two ships, each of which had to be painted with its number in huge letters: D36 and D54, in accordance with the names I gave above. But every destroyer, as we know, has two sides. He hired Madame Maille-Berze, painted her starboard side D36, painted her port side D54, and peace be upon her. FranceThe French were alarmed. They claimed it was a fraud, threatened to publish it, and even published it, inA website inviting us to stay with Madame Maille-Berze.
It didn't hurt the film, anyway. An excellent film, by the way. Brilliant directing, especially the cuts of the scenes.
Site #13: The Elephant of Nantes
Actually, not just the elephant, there are other different and strange mechanical animals, but the elephant is the most impressive, at least to me.
It is a kind of amusement park, called Machine of the Isle of Nantes, located on Boulevard Léon Bureau.
The elephant is truly gigantic, about 12 meters tall. It carries about fifty people on its back. It goes for a ride in the adjacent square, blowing smoke from its trunk, cheering, and in the summer, spraying water on the enchanted audience.
It is worth being interested in On the What are his hours of operation?
The main problem is that, although the adults enjoy it just as much, their excuse for getting on the wonderful animal is their children. We didn't have any children with us. I might be suspected of being some kind of pedophile if I insisted on getting on with the wild old men. I suggested to Karen that we ask at the counter if we could rent a child for an hour or two, but like all my good ideas, this too was rejected, so I watched from the sidelines.
There's not just an elephant there.
And finally, a recommended shopping mall in Nantes and a recipe for stuffed eggplants
I promised a better one than the one in Passage. I recommend the one in Saint-Herblain, a suburb of Nantes, not far from the airport.
ATLANTIS
ATLANTIS Pôle commercial Atlantis
44807 SAINT HERBLAIN CEDEX
Plenty of parking, excellent Italian restaurant. To the left of the escalators. Goes back there again and again. House wine, on tap, cheap and good.
Okay, friends. That's it for now.
Thanks for reading,
I'm going to stuff eggplants:
Winning recipe:
Cut each eggplant in half, lengthwise. Brush the cut side with olive oil. Put in a hot oven, 180 degrees, for half an hour or until browned. Then remove most of the contents. Chop what you took out (sounds terrible to me, but I mean eggplant). Fry the onion and then chop it. Season. I used a lot of curry, turmeric and sweet paprika. But you can use any spice. Fill the boats. You can stack them high. Return to the oven on low heat, for half an hour - an hour. Remove, sprinkle Cheese Grated, put back under the grill.
Luckily, they left me some for the next day, otherwise I would have had nothing to show:
That's it. I'm cutting with regret, because I have work to do.
Dan Ashkenazi
Interesting! Based on your instructions and descriptions, it's easy to imagine what it's like in reality.
As for eggplant, want to save calories? Use eggplant slices for lasagna instead of pasta. Delicious for both meat and dairy lasagna.
Thank you. I will implement the advice.
דני
Thanks for the fun and helpful article. Please note that Vincent the Sweet is closed on Mondays, as are many shops in this lovely city.
Very fun and makes you want to jump a little.
By the way, does the writer have a B&B?
Not a B&B. A small cottage adjacent to the castle.
Danish.
dan@aos-law.com
An impressive article in my opinion, quite detailed - I'm thinking of including a trip there in the future.
Thank you Hillel Zvi
Wow, definitely! Thanks Danny.
Hi, I would love to know where you can go hiking from Nantes to see some nature within an hour's drive...
And recommended places to sleep with three children would be welcome!!! Thank you very much for the informative article.
Here's a good option:
https://www.francophilesanonymes.com/france/britanny/north-east/
Hello, I would also like to know about easy routes in nature with children.
Thanks
Hi Efrat,
I don't have any at the moment. Maybe I will in the future.
deer
Hi Zvi, I really enjoyed the article.., you'll be surprised,, why I entered it. I visit Paris a lot in the Marais area. I have friends with a big business there, and for the first time I heard about Nantes, I entered the article out of curiosity to know which direction it is. You captivated me with your article. Probably one day I will get there. In any case, you explained it very well. Thank you Zvi. If I get there, I hope to see you..
Hello Rauma.
I was happy to read that you enjoyed the article and I would be very happy to meet you in the future.
Best regards,
deer
Hey
Couple. Landing in Nantes for 5 full days.
Take a rental car.
Do you have an idea for a route?
It seems to me that
Mont Saint Michel
Saint Malo
Honfleur
and one landing beach
They are mandatory.
Hi Shamshi.
All the information I have about the Brittany region can be found here:
https://www.francophilesanonymes.com/france/britanny/
Best regards,
deer
Wow, this article really makes me want to travel there!
I'm arriving in France soon and landing around 11 am, and unlike planned, I'll need to be there until about 17:30 pm. The question is if there is any interesting route (whether on foot or a combination of buses) that can be done in the city with a small suitcase, I'd be happy to recommend it.
Hi Lorin.
Everything about Nantes is in this article. By the way, why not leave your suitcase at the train station or airport? I'm pretty sure there are luggage storage services there.
deer
Nice article. But I suggest you still enter the cathedral, which may not be impressive from the outside but is beautiful and Gothic inside. On the right side, near the apse, is an impressive tomb called “the most beautiful tomb in France,” and indeed it is. This is the tomb of François II, Duke of Brittany, and his wife Marguerite de Foix, surrounded by statues of the noble qualities necessary for a ruler. The statues are made of delicate and impressive white marble. In my opinion, it is a must-see.
Also, the Triangular Trade and Slavery Memorial held in the city notes shipping dates, ship names and numbers. As well as sayings about freedom. Interesting.
You added more information about the drownings in the river. And all of this happened in this beautiful city. Thank you.
The article arouses interest and a desire to come, and I really plan on it happening soon, especially since there are now direct flights to Nantes, and they are not expensive.
Is there a way to get to Il Saint Michelle without a car?
Thanks
Hi! We are landing in Nantes in September and flying out a week later. We are a young couple and are trying to plan a trip that combines Nantes, Paris, and Disneyland Paris for one day. We will sleep in Nantes at least 2 nights – after and before the flights, due to their times.
I would appreciate your advice – we are debating whether to add a stopover or a day trip from Nantes in the Loire Valley area, before heading towards Paris. I would appreciate any recommendations, or whether it is worth giving up and spending as many days in Paris as possible. We are planning to rent a car to do the route between Nantes and Paris, to experience the beautiful views along the way.
Thank you and airy macarons to everyone!
Hi Tehilla,
My advice is to spend a day or two in Nantes and then take a train directly to Paris and spend as much time there as possible.
Best regards,
deer
Thank you very much for the detailed guide!
Are there also nature walks in the area?
Go to Clisson and wander through the vineyards. And in general, there are lots and lots of hiking trails on my site that start not so far from Nantes.
Hey,
We returned yesterday from a trip to Nantes. The price of the ticket ($70 round trip) couldn't stop us. The city is absolutely charming, especially now that it's decorated for Christmas and even the holiday market opened in our honor at Place Royale.
We were greatly helped by your article, which is comprehensive and excellent. Thank you very much!!
We ate at Les Pieds dans le Plat, which was very nice. I would give it an 8 (and I consider myself a “coincidental fine dining”).
I highly recommend the Michelin-starred restaurant called LuluRouget.
At lunchtime they serve a meal for only 32 euros, which includes: a starter, a main course and a dessert. You can choose the main course.
Of course, excellent bread and butter are also served, as well as a kind of super special salty biscuit to start.
There is also a surprise dinner for 52 euros. In the evening the prices are higher.
We visited Vincent Guerlain's patisserie twice. Everything was excellent.
Another nice patisserie, which we also visited every day, is: Emma. There is a selection of puff pastries in different flavors. Everything we tasted was excellent (vanilla, pistachio, pear, raspberry). Wonderful lemon tart and a delicious croissant.
It was a little cold and rainy, but if you dress well, it doesn't really bother you. We walked along the green route every day. There was no need for public transportation.
lamb shank
Lamb market, with an emphasis on “lamb” and not mutton, which is almost non-existent in the Israeli market
Very soon in Nantes, we are going to live for the third time with a friend in La Maison Radieuse Le Corbusier
In my opinion, an important place in the suburbs of Nantes, especially for those interested in (very) functional modern architecture, the building and its associated surroundings alone are worth a two-hour visit, a kind of creative museum where people live because they are people.
A second place I didn't find in the article and I'll go take a look at it again is Trentemoult.
A small fishing village swallowed up between the neighborhoods of Nantes, it is wonderfully preserved, stunning in its beauty and also has several restaurants on the riverbank where you should eat mussels with Breton cider.
Beyond that, I will go discover 1 or 2 sites based on the article's recommendations that I haven't seen yet,
Then 6 days in Grand, the source of the gray salt and especially in the wonderful variety between the Brier forest and the sea,
Interesting, and very beautifully written. We will come visit when the coronavirus is over, and the fire in the cathedral is put out.
We were sorry to hear about Danny.
We didn't know each other, but we planned the trip to Nantes based on this article (a surprise trip for my wife). So we also got a taste of Dani.. Thank you, dear man.
We should add that the city has a large spa within walking distance of the center. It's worth checking out, especially on a winter day.
Thank you very much for the tip.